Track and Loco cleaning

[wimorrison]

Unfortunately my job takes me away for periods of several weeks and I find that when I do return I seem to spend most of the time cleaning track and loco wheels to get some form of reasonable running and by the time I have acheived that it is time to leave again :-(

My questions are simple - what recommendations would you have for minimising this ritual - how often do you need to clean things - how do you keep loco wheels and pickups clean?

I am using Lenz DCC to run the layout - in theory DCC should help, at least that is what I thought

All suggestions are welcome, I will try anything!


Many Thanks

Iain Morrison

[Darren Hedges]

Iain,
what are you using to clean your trackwork, How big is your layout, and where do you store it?
I ask these questions because they can all make a serious difference to track cleaning.
For starters don't use any of the abrasive track cleaners such as those available from Peco, Hornby, Roco, etc. All these do is wear fine groves in the rail head that quickly collect dirt. I use a wide fibreglass pen and would recommend it, just remember to vacuum the track every once in a while to remove any tiny bits of fibreglass that have been left behind.
If your layout is not too big try covering it when not in use. Normally I can go weeks without cleaning the track, but when I forget to replace the plastic dust sheet that covers the layout it seems as if the track tarnish's overnight.
Lastly if where you store your layout is cold, damp or susceptible to temperature changes this can cause rails to tarnish quicker.

Also I use both a Minitrix N Gauge wheel cleaner that sits on the track and a Kadee HO/N Gauge one that has leads that clip on the rails/power supply. I find both of these quite effective at keeping wheels clean. I also periodically remove the wheel sets from the rolling stock and give them a good clean by soaking them in a little Methelayted Spirits (or IPA when I can get it).

Hope this helps,
Darren.

[Graeme Dunbar]

I am not convinced that a glass fibre brush is any less harsh than an abrasive block, but there are many variables so it is hard to be sure. I am not sure what grade the blocks sold as track cleaners are, but as sold to the metalworking industry they come in a variety of grades. I have one by the name of Garyflex: http://www.moleroda.com/acatalog/Abrasive_Blocks_Garyflex_Sanding.html

One way to check the relative harshness is to rub a flat surface (say a piece brass or nickel-silver sheet or copper-clad board) using one abrasive in one direction and at right angles using the other and see how much effort it takes to remove all the scratch marks left by the other abrasive.

Some people use a small block of hardboard rough side down as a track cleaner. Along these lines, I use a piece of plain A4 paper folded in half as many times as I can and rub the track with that after using an abrasive block. My "theory" is that the paper picks up any residue and burnishes the track at the same time. It is easy to see what the paper is picking up and when it gets dirty I just re-fold it to give a fresh surface. It is surprising how quickly the paper gets dirty.

[vulcan]

Among 009'ers this topic seems to arise with monotonous regularity, along with the subject of good slow running and -to be perfectly honest- has anybody got a decent answer?
It does depend on many variables that Iain , many others & me! suffer from- oxidation , voltage supply ,rail joint resistance , weight over pickup wheels etc.
How do the N gaugers & 2mm guys cope?
Anybody with feet in more than one camp let us know   

Ken

[garrywhiting]

Having worked as an operator on many 009 layouts on the exhibition circuit for over 30 years, I have observed many different approaches to this problem. I cannot recommend the use of the glass fibre pen, as the likelihood of the cast off fibres being eventually carried up into the mechanism is too great. For loco wheel cleaning the best solution is the Minitrix wheel cleaner, although I have seen a homemade variety made from a suede brush which was just as effective. Rail cleaning is best left to a spot of meths applied with a lint free cloth and old fashioned elbow grease. A recent test of Rail-Zip proved to be a bit of a disaster, although I do know of others who have reported success with this product.

A good controller is essential, the best currently available is probably Gaugemaster, although again there are others of a similar design, some of which are sadly no longer manufactured.

If locos are powered by a donor N gauge mechanism, then quality is usually the watchword. If you a buy a Trabant, you are not going to get Ferrari performance. I have strong feelings about some very well known brands and regrettably cannot repeat them here, as UK libel laws are particularly robust. I am willing to discuss privately at any Society member's day or when taking a break fom operating at a show.

[vulcan]

Sticking on track for a moment (not literally!), just had a thought. What people who can't use their layout frequently possibly need is a product that could be applied & simply wiped off again later. Anybody out there with experience in metal protection? I'm thinking of something similar to the coating on brake discs, clutches etc. to protect against oxidation during storage. A quick wipe over the rails has got to take less time than a full on cleaning session & also cause less damage.

I've recently bought a Tomix track cleaner which seems ok on plain track but does have limitations through turnouts, also we're back to the abrasion problem - the dry cleaning function uses very fine wet & dry paper. The vacuum function though works quite well in removing debris.

It seems that until we can get non oxidising rail with good conductivity (gold rail anyody?) it's a case of you pays yer money & you takes yer choice.

Some food for thought I hope

Ken

[Graeme Dunbar]

Someone on a mailing list or forum suggested graphite from a soft lead pencil. OK it is not good if you have gradients and need lots of traction! However, it is conductive and might possibly protect the rail head a bit.

I wonder what it is that actually "does for" the rails? I know that in the case of a friend's O gauge layout in an outbuilding it is mouse pee, but that perhaps not a common problem! Is it dust or damp, the combination or something else?

[Darren Hedges]

Further to my previous reply and in response to the reply by Garry relating to using meths on a lint free cloth.
I have tried the axle hung cleaning pads (N Gauge variety) as sold by Gaugemaster. These are plastic with a soft pad attached and simply clip onto the axle of an item of rolling stock and gently rub on the rail tops.
They do work but are quite big so only fit on larger items such as the Parkside Dundas Glyn Valley style 4 wheel coach or vehicles of a similar size. You certainly wouldn't get one under a Ffestiniog slate wagon.

Regards,
Darren.

[clanky]

further on from ' snowdon ranger ' re cleaning pads . Once worn I've glued fine Wet & Dry on the under surface and a little lead glued on the top surface , this is to keep in contact with the rail head . The wagons are then joined as an engineers train , Then run around the layout at the start of every session .
How efficient it is , not so sure , I'm like wimorrison , the layout is not used as often as I would like .
anyway it's a thought .. clanky.

[B.Meldon]

[As posted in response to the same question on Yahoo Groups HOe-modeling.]

Hi Iain,
It is my experience that if you want good running in 009/HOe you have
to put the time in cleaning the track and wheels. There is no easy
option, the track cleaning locos like the Fleischmann loco with its
revolving disks are very useful in keeping clean track clean but if
you leave it for a few weeks the only way to clean the track properly
is by hand. I use a contact cleaning rubber that was once available
from Maplin Electronics for most of the track, and fine (1200 grade)
wet and dry paper on a stick for areas that are difficult to get to.
For loco wheels I run the locos upside-down in a foam rubber holder
and clean the wheel using single strand bell wire connected to a
controller and/or a suitable scraping tool like a tiny screwdriver,
sometimes a track rubber is used to remove every last bit of dirt off
the wheels. This is all done with the loco running at about three
quarter power this has the added beneficial effect of cleaning the
comutators on the motors as well. I do not know the scale of your
layout or the number of locos you need to clean but on my large fixed
layout I have about 50 feet of HOe track and 150 feet of HO track.
This takes about 20 minutes to clean. Then there are the two
exhibition HOe layouts with about 35 feet of 009/HOe track each, but
these only get a clean before they are used or exhibited.
In regard to locos let's just say that it takes me several hours to
clean all the HOe/009 locos wheels.
It may take some time but it is worth it.
I also keep my fixed layout covered when not in use and the exhibition
layouts are packed away, this helps a lot with the track grime but
does not stop it.
Track and wheel cleaning is vital for good running in 009/H0e without
it things will never run 100% it is a pain but the results are worth it.
Brian Meldon

[wimorrison]

Chaps,

Some excellent suggestions that I will try to implement. As for size I have about 70 feet of track in total, but with some 'buried' in hills that is not as easy to get to as it should have been.

I think I have already committed all the cardinal sins that are described, I have used a Peco Track Rubber (these now seem much finer than they used to be), I have also use 1200 wet and dry, and I even use the Gaugemaster pads. These do seem to collect a tremendous amount of dirt from the railhead. The idea of putting some wet and dry on them is clever, I think I will try that.

I have heard of a product called Railzip that the local model shop swears by, but as he runs his layout every evening, I am nit sure if his good running is partly down to scale (OO) and also very frequent use or the Railzip. I am wary about using this sort of product due to the effort in cleaning it off should it not work. I have just purchased a CMX N cleaner when on my travels together with some Trix Modellbahn fluid which is designed for rail cleaning - it appears to work, but the layout has not yet had a significant period of inactivity (I will let everyone know if it is any good)

Keeping the loco wheels seems to be the most important, and most difficult issue as they are small  ;) and when dirty it is difficult to get them turning (I think that this is a bit chicken and egg!). I have purchase 2 Peco brass brush wheel cleaners which when taped together with a bit of plasticard between (to keep brushes separate) seem to be at the correct spacing for 009/HOe - bit of a bonus. My question would be, will these not wear the plating on the wheels and accelerate poor conductivity?


As I said, I think I have tried most of the suggestions and short of changing jobs to allow more time with the layout I think I will just have to suffer the pain for the undoubted please when things are clean!

Many Thanks - I will post something about the CMX when I have some results worthy of posting

Iain

[gorwin]

I use the Gaugemaster pads, they fit under a Liliput Coach/Van fine, the pads clean well after running with a cotton bud soaked in Surgical Spirit BP. I often run while the pad is still wet.
Two of my coaches carry a pad and are the first two items run before any session.
The N Gauge pads are the ones I use. My layout is in an open room with the normal amount of dust etc, and most of my locos are old. Hope this is of use.

[Simon Andrews]

Hello all,

I swear by Serversol solvent spray for track cleaning followed by a rub over with a  graphite pencil (the track not me)  ;) follow these links for more info

http://forum.gn15.info/viewtopic.php?t=300&highlight=graphite

http://forum.gn15.info/viewtopic.php?t=1260&highlight=graphite

http://forum.gn15.info/viewtopic.php?t=2257&highlight=graphite

Regards,

Simon.

[Graeme Dunbar]

I swear by Serversol solvent spray for track cleaning followed by a rub over with a  graphite pencil (the track not me)  ;)

I must ask at the art shop about the "graphite sticks" referred to in the links. The softest pencil I found was 6B I think. (OT: we were using them at work in a schools outreach engineering workshop where we showed the children how they could make a resistor by simply drawing a line on paper - they made a sound generator and with a bit of patience in getting the length and thickness right you can make a "piano roll stylophone" and have it play simple tunes!)

It could be worth keeping an eye open for an old large DC motor to salvage the graphite brushes perhaps?

[MickT]

I must ask at the art shop about the "graphite sticks" referred to in the links. The softest pencil I found was 6B I think.

I got a pack of 2 x 9B graphite "crayons" from my local-ish branch of Hobbycraft for about