Track and Loco cleaning

[duttonbay]

9B! I originally used a 6B graphite stick, but found it seemed to leave vast quantities of black dust everywhere. Now I use a 2B, much harder, there is much less evidence of it having been applied, but the effect seems the same.

I must admit that for the last couple of years I have been actively (but slowly) building a new layout in On30, and the HOn30 Dutton Bay has moved into minimal-maintenance mode, and now only gets a run at the monthly operating session. With trains only running infrequently, I have begun cleaning the track again, prior to each session, and reapplying the graphite. Operation seems to be fine for somewhere between 3 and 6 months with just another rub-over with graphite, but as I forget how things were like from month-to-month I then forgot to clean when it might have been necessary. No big deal, takes me an hour or two with a track rubber and graphite pencil as part of staging the layout for the forthcoming session.

[pilotfriend]

Track cleaning has been a bugbear for County Gate as any attempt to clean track manually on the scenic portions always resulted in some damage. Finally I have chosen two track cleaning systems.

1. Roco



the Roco has a sprung rubber underneath. This is dragged around twice a day during exhibitions and does work well. It is disguised in a butchered boxcar.



2. Tomix

This is now supplied by Dapol and is the smallest Hoover in the world. Prior to operating, we do two passes to remove debris...it is good enough to pick up loose bits of ballast.



disguised thus



I started to use Rail Zip six months ago. For four months, County Gate was stored between exhibitions in its trailer in a covered caravan storage facility. The railzip worked and continues to do so and does protect the rail from oxidation. So far I am well impressed although adhesion has been very slightly compromised. Never let loco wheelsets get soaked with the stuff as you will just spin forever!

JdF

[B.Meldon]

I find that the rail mounted track cleaners are only sufficient to keep the track clean during the day at exhibitions. I use the Fleischman N gauge track cleaner locos that have rotating sprung abrasive pads. These chassis have had tram type loco bodies built on them that can be used on the layout with the other locos. They run very well and have lasted for many years. However this is not sufficient to clean track that has not been used for a while and even at exhibitions I find that the track needs to be cleaned properly with a track rubber each morning. If this is not done I find that the running will suffer. In addition to this every loco will require its wheels to be cleaned each day before use.
I have tried an N gauge vacuum cleaner wagon, and although it does pick up a lot of the dust and dirt, much is left behind, even the standard gauge vacuum cleaner wagon that I use on one layout with it

[rhydddu009]

I agree.  I have now basically banned engines with huge flanges like the ibertren chassis. 

Even with decent wheels you still need to open out the checkrails on peco points and fettle joins to line up well too.  Modern mashima motors help running too as they just seem to have a lower start voltage and less of a tendency to get stuck.  I also have added a load of extra feeds on the layout to help reliability. 

I love the recent innovations of county gate - using a dcc pin/plug to link to an adjacent wagon is just fantastic, but I'm not sure I have the time or patience!

[B.Meldon]

Hi Colin
I have not had the flange problems with the Ibertren 0-4-0

[pilotfriend]

Hi

I have stopped hand cleaning track on visible sections as almost inevitably, some damage to scenery can happen.

I do find that three passes with the Tomix cleaner does do the trick. The real solution is to get as many wheels to pick up current as you can. Pony trucks add enormously to running qualities and 'plugging in' to the next door vehicle gives 100% good running. The time to install a 'plug in' system is about 5 hours and in my view, worth every minute.
JdF

[duttonbay]

Even with decent wheels you still need to open out the checkrails on peco points

Can you explain what "open out the checkrails" means? I think I know what those words mean, but I'm not certain it's anything I would do to Peco 009 points

[rhydddu009]

sorry probably not the best use of language to describe.  I basically mean taking a small file to deepen (and maybe slightly widen) the gap between checkrail and stock rail.  Otherwise I find wheels ride up and derail.  Colin

[pilotfriend]

Peco Crazy track points are fairly hopeless and frankly should be avoided.Tillig points from International Models are far better. Ordinary N scale 18" Peco points work just fine.

While one can deepen the flangeways on Peco points, extreme care is needed when widening the gap on checkrails as locos with more fine scale wheels can then come a cropper. I have done it very slightly on CG but these days, I tend to scrap the plastic check rail and replace it with a longer one fabricated in rail.

regards
JdF

[vulcan]

'plugging in' to the next door vehicle gives 100% good running. The time to install a 'plug in' system is about 5 hours and in my view, worth every minute.
JdF

Any chance of a description of the "mechanics" of this John? I assume pickups are added to any "calf" vehicle but would be interested to see the method of connection between vehicles.

Thanks

Ken

[wimorrison]

2. Tomix

This is now supplied by Dapol and is the smallest Hoover in the world. Prior to operating, we do two passes to remove debris...it is good enough to pick up loose bits of ballast.

I am slightly confused by the Tomix ads - sometimes it is a hoover, other times a cleaner and I also have seen adverts for abrasive discs for Tomix and cleaning pads. I think that this may be the nirvana of cleaning models and do everything,but then again I may be wrong (again) :-[

Does this,

a) have fluid reservoir for cleaning pads - if so what is the best fluid?
b) have a capability to abrasively clean the railhead?
c) does it hoover at the same time as it does the above?

I saw one on eBay the other day and it went for

[vulcan]

The Tomix cleaner isn't the Holy Grail it might seem (speaking from experience) but does perform all 3 functions (not at the same time  :D). Sorry I'm not too good at up (down?) loading pics so hopefully a description will help.
The motor drives  various interchangeable fittings:-

A disc with very fine wet & dry attached           
-do-    with a fabric pad & a seperately fitted sponge which is impregnated from a reservoir filled with your favourite plastic inert cleaner.
Fan attachment which is quite effective as a vacuum

The motor only drives the attachments, not the unit itself :(

I think the price has recently increased (probably due to exchange rates! :()

Regards

Ken

[pilotfriend]

I think that the Tomix is getting close to the 'holy grail' . What is cannot do is to clean the inside of the rail head which plays a significant role in current collection. It does, however keep us running without damaging scenery. I still use a track rubber behind scenes but then 'hoover' with the Tomix.

Here are some details of our 'Calf vehicle'

'Lyn' is a very good running loco and it is very rare to get stalled. However we do have a few 'dodgy spots' on the track, usually at baseboard joins. It is the first loco to get plugged in to the adjacent vehicle for extra current pickup. I have used plugs and sockets that are used for DCC chips. I just cut off a pair and we have a good start to make mini plugs.

http://www.009.cd2.com/images51/60.jpg
a socket ready for installation

In order to remain on the tracks due to bending resistance of even the thinnest wire, the boxcar next to Lyn has to be heavily ballasted. The Greemax bogies have wheel sets with one wheel grounded. Therefore each bogie picks up from one rail. They are very easy to convert by inserting a thin strip of phosphor bronze which is drilled at wheel centres. This is glued to the inside of the bogie sides and the wheels carefully replaced in the right position.


a modified bogie with electrical pick up




'Lyn' installed with the sockets let into the bunker and box car


the plugged in consist...no more 'hand of God'

The plugs are inserted with tweezers while polarity is marked with tiny red paint dots.

[pilotfriend]

Earlier on, I stated that I thought Peco Crazy track ponts were pretty hopeless. Having just built my new fiddle yard using Peco N gauge medium rad. (18") turnouts, this was put into very clear focus.



Without any fettling whatsoever, these points give really smooth crossings of all stock and accept a very wide variety of wheel profiles with no murmer at all - all 'out of the box'.

I now ammend my first statement to:

"In my view, Crazy Points should be assigned to Bedlam and never fitted to a layout. I find it surprising that a company such as Peco still supply such units. They are frankly not fit for purpose."

As a matter of interest, the small radius N gauge turnouts work just as well.

JdF

[B.Meldon]

A Peco 009 point with a point motor and an accessory switch for the wiring will cost about