Track and Loco cleaning

[clanky]

visited ' modelrail scotland yesterday ' , whilst talking to one of the dapol guys I asked what cleaning fluid they recommend for the tomix rail cleaner ,
two where mentioned the only one I can remember now is a product called
SAMBOL IBS 140 ( german company ) , he said I could obtain it from stall 79ish
JAPAN MODEL RAILWAYS . don't know who else can supply .
question for pilotfriend , forgot to ask how much to fluid to use , how much do you put in your tomix cleaner ? .

[pilotfriend]

Brian,

I realise that my comments might have responses.
There is no need to use slow motion motors with Tillig so the cost comparison you make is much greater than it really is. Tillig points also need very careful laying due to their flexibility.

I am mostly very loyal to Peco until we come to these points.

Incidentally, I have experienced 3 point failures at County Gate.

The concept of fettling is a fancy word for 'fixin a bad product'. I rather suspect that more people have left 009 due to their layouts turnouts than the other way around. I have at least two queries a week from my own website on how to fettle these damn things and I now just email a handout.

Why is it not necessary to 'fettle' N gauge turnouts???? The sleepers can easily be hidden on these by the way.

You also state that fettling takes one hour. Maybe if you are expert and know exactly what rolling stock you are running over it. A newcomer has often no idea what to do and lands up with a scrap point. Even if successful, a new and different chassis may require more fettling and then another chassis may come off! Going back on turnouts on a completed model railway can be very difficult indeed.

I would have to say that 'fettling' can take up to three hours on County Gate due to the variation of stock and I have done it for quite some time.

None of this is needed with Peco N gauge.

best regards
John

[vulcan]

The concept of fettling is a fancy word for 'fixin a bad product'.

Strictly speaking "fettling" is an old term for preparing a raw casting for machining but, to my mind is perfectly acceptable for preparing a "rough" product for reasonable use. I do, however object to having to do it to a brand new item - particularly with regard to the plastic checkrail flangeways on peco points, which seem to be my nemesis. Admittedly I do have quite a range of wheel profiles to contend with, but a scrap rate of 30/40% seems excessive (albeit over a number of years).
I almost accept Peco's reluctance to improve a possibly low profit item, but wonder how that philosphy jibes with the seemingly high tech approach to 'N' slips, an example of which I bought at a swapmeet last year - dead flat, all flangeways within .005" (gauge & depth) ,all "frogs" electrically isolated & seperately wired & complete with extensive wiring instructions! Now you can't tell me that a slip is a high volume item. I accept that the price of this item can be high but I for one would rather have a higher capital cost than an extortionate rebuild/repair one.

By the way, I'm not a turncoat - the slip is destined for an embryonic (very!) module.

The only problem is what can we do?

Live long & prosper

Ken

[vulcan]

Sorry John,
Because of the rant, forgot to thank you for the fantastically comprehensive reply to my request on 'plugging in'

Thanks again

Ken

[pilotfriend]

Hi

Firstly for clanky. The cleaning fluid can be ourchased from among others, Carrs. It is Amyl Alcohol. I always preferred carbon tetrachloride until Granny State banned anything that is useful or enjoyable!

I just pour in what I can into the reservoir and take off with it. Nothing too clever. I only do this about once every three months to remove old railzip before reapplying it.


Ken, glad to be of help.
jdf

[B.Meldon]

Hi John
I think like with many other aspects of 009 modelling the problem is that for any manufacture the market for any 009 product is small and the returns are low on any investment. The Peco 009 12 inch and Y points were introduced in the early 1980

[clanky]

pilotfriend , glad you mentioned the 3 months , had'nt thought of that .
So it's not something to be used on that regular a basis . I take it you recommed RAILZIP . by the by , interested to know what  loco you use to move the beast , I had to resort to my N gauge union mills SUPER D . I think your dcc will help .
cheers john

[wimorrison]

... I only do this about once every three months to remove old railzip before reapplying it.

How do you apply the RAILZIP? I tried the recommended method of laying a couple of strips on the rails and runnning a loco through it and around the trackwork but it dodn't seem to be that successful :( (it also meant that they loco wheels were covered in RAILZIP)

I am sure that there is a more effective method :)

Many Thanks

Iain

[duttonbay]

Back when I used railzip, I used to apply just a drop on the railhead, every now and then. The rail does need to be clean before it is applied though, otherwise it's a waste of time. It's not a rail cleaner, but a method of providing better conductivity for longer on already cleaned track.

[clanky]

duttonbay I take it we're getting back to the graphite crayon ( wish I could track it down ) , back to the ' black art ' bit
cheers john

[MickT]

duttonbay I take it we're getting back to the graphite crayon ( wish I could track it down ) , back to the ' black art ' bit
cheers john

There's nothing "black art" about graphite crayons - they work! I got mine (a pair of 9B ones in a pack which cost around 2 or 3 pounds) from Hobbycraft on the artists materials section - same row that stocks pencils and charcoal etc so I would imagine that they can be found in any decent artists supply store.

Mick

[duttonbay]

Yes, as MickT says, should be available at any artist supply store. I originally used 6B, but have now switched to 2B . It's obviously harder, doesn't leave as much on the rail, but also doesn't leave as much graphite dust around the place.

Just so you know what to look for, here are my 6B (top) and 2B sticks. Of course, these were bought in Australia, so you might not find the exact pencils in the UK:

[clanky]

sorry guys, I meant the whole subject of track cleaning is a bit of a black art . many thanks re the graphite . cheers john

[wimorrison]

....the whole subject of track cleaning is a bit of a black art ...

Certainly is if you get a 6B all over the place  :D

Iain

[B.Meldon]

There is no 'black art' involved John.
There are however many, many different approaches to cleaning track and keeping it clean, clearly many of them are successful and work for those that use them.
As mentioned before I use the old method of using a track rubber to clean the track before each operating session on the layouts or each morning at exhibitions. It takes time and you do need to build layouts with this in mind so the overhanging trees, buildings and scenery can be easily removed. I also use a track cleaning loco to keep the track clean during the day. My method takes time and effort but it is very effective.
All I can suggest is that you try a few of the methods suggested and see what one works best for you or is appropriate for your budget.
Brian Meldon