Chris Ward Locos - help required !

[berryr99]

Good afternoon,

After some 20 years of membership of the society I have taken the plunge and bought a loco - Chris Ward's Growler - to make for myself.

Being a complete novice to loco building (but I'm OK at scratch building buildings) I was wondering if there was any advice out there on dealing with this kit.

Specifically, I don't understand how to get a smooth surface finish - burnishing has been mentioned but not sure what this means and whether the surface can also be sanded

I've seen this month's article in the 009 News which was helpful but any further information would be appreciated

Thanks

Bob Berry

[Sven]

Use something round and semi-hard, like a piece of rounded wood. I used a wooden stick from an ice cream, rounded completely with sandpaper. Just polish the model with that.

[Graeme Dunbar]

A "cuticle stick" is one possibility:
http://www.boots.com/en/Boots-Essentials-Manicure-Sticks_1129281/

[berryr99]

Thanks for both suggestions

Currently I have a metal round ended embossing tool that I stole out of my wife's crafting stuff.

Not a good idea as (a) I think it might be too hard and (b) she might find out who took it !

I will follow up on both ideas

Bob

[garrywhiting]

I use wooden cocktail sticks, a small box full cost 35p from Home Bargins, also you will have to accept that a mirror smooth finish is almost impossible to obtain, but after final painting the slight striations are barely visible at normal viewing distance,

Take care when burnishing, never hold the model in the same place for more than a few minutes, this is because the resin used is heat sensitive, and even body heat from your fingers can distort the model if held too tightly in the same position for too long.

After burnishing scrub away dust using an old toothbrush and tepid water ( not hot! see above ). Dry thoroughly and respray with primer. Leave to dry for a couple of days.

I do strongly recommend that you use acryllic paints for your paint scheme. I did use Humbrol enamel paint on one of my Chris Ward locos, but again there appeared to be some reaction between the resin and the enamel paint despite the primer barrier, and drying time incteased from the usual 6 hours to 72 hours!

At the moment, I am trying am alternative method of dealing with the striations on a Shapeways 3D diesel body from teebee models. I am experimenting with applying Tipp-Ex ( the one with the wedge shaped foam applicator). I apply the Tipp-Ex to a section of the model, allow to dry, and then rub down with a sanding stick. Repeat if necessary, after working progressively round the whole body, I have again resprayed with primer, so far this appears to be working well.

[Hugh Norwood]

I do strongly recommend that you use acryllic paints for your paint scheme. I did use Humbrol enamel paint on one of my Chris Ward locos, but again there appeared to be some reaction between the resin and the enamel paint despite the primer barrier, and drying time incteased from the usual 6 hours to 72 hours!

I have had no problems using Humbrol enamels on my two Chris Ward locos. I do thin the paint down a lot with "white spirit" - you do need lots of coats.

On the topic of burnishing, I have used a pin with a largish head, held in a pin vice, and the plain end of a matchstick

[berryr99]

Garry/Hugh,

Thanks for the tips - all very gratefully received.

I think I am looking to reduce the ridges as far as possible - I've just used a cocktail stick which seems to take them down a little but will also try a matchstick now.

Fortunately I had the wit to buy a "practice" loco body from Chris Ward so I have been playing with this rather than the actual loco I will build.

On the subject of Humbrol Paints, there has been much critical comment on another forum (model cars) about the quality now that production is at Hornby. I have been having drying issues with Humbrol on a scratch build I am doing so will avoid (or at least well test) these paints before use.

Looks like the practices around 3D printed locos are much of a "developing art" at this stage

I have a final and probably stupid question - what is the best way to attach the Kato chassis to the body - I'd seen blu-tack mentioned

Regards

Bob

[invercloy]

I have recently been doing some work on a 3d printed body to try and reduce the finish.

I've done a little work with a fibreglass brush, then applied a few coats of "Mr. White surfacer 1000" filler primer produced by Gunzo.  It's a very useful product as it's given many areas of the print a glassy finish.

Unfortunately one area I'll have to try and hide is the cab roof, I think that's more down to my artwork than the printing process, though, and it'll easily be hidden beneath a sheet of tin.

Re. normal paints, if it's of use, Bob... I use the Citadel Colour range produced by Warhammer, I'm a lousy painter and often think I ruin my models when I get a paintbrush out, but this range of paints is very good and helps me get a bit better finish than I used to using Humbrol and Railmatch.  Worth a try perhaps.

[Graeme Dunbar]

I've no quantitative "proof" with measures of surface roughness etc. but I suspect the 3D printing method makes surfaces look worse than they are. I'm fairly sure that many whitemetal castings with their slight orange-peely surface are just as rough but the surface pattern is random. With 3D printing and on cab roofs in particular the "moire fringe" like stepping is most noticable because of the regular lines.

I have one Chris Ward and one Tebee Shapeways model that I'm slowly working on.

The Shapeways model still had slight traces of the supporting wax that I removed with warm water, detergent and a toothbrush and later methylated spirits.

I forget how I started with the Chris Ward other than I tried burnishing various things and then decided to strip the paint. It seemed to be more susceptible to warm-hot water and I needed to wedge the cab sides with matchsticks between the "engine cover" and sides so they dried flat as they warped inwards after the first soaking. There was also some whitish jelly-like paste that I scraped from the inside. This might have been supporting wax though I feared it may have been resin.

However, never fear, dispite all my abuse I still have two models and they have had one coat of acrylic primer each.

I too got a glassy finish on the horizontal flat bonnet surface, thought it was pretty much there when I started. The worst problem is that I managed to crack one of the window uprights and needed to fix it with superglue. I also tried "flooding" the moulded in couplings with very thin superglue and filed/wet and dried them.

[Isle of Stoner]

I've made 3 of Chrises locos and have glued the chassis in with a spot of superglue. I needed to remove one chassis and it popped out no problem with a bit of levering.

I find once they are painted and you've given them a bit of a rub over they look fine. The double Fairlie on the front page of his site is one of mine and was painted with acrylic paints. (Games workshop - Snot Green)

I've had to stop myself buying more as the last thing I need is more locos!







I've added bits and bobs here and there which helps, domes seem to be a weak spot of the printing technique. What a brilliant idea though. Since these pics I've added plates from Narrow Planet too.

John W

[MickT]

..................................... the last thing I need is more locos!
John W

Go and wash your mouth out with soap That Man, how can you say such a thing. And here's me thinking that you have the world's largest bitza box as well.  >:( :o

Mick

[berryr99]

Guys

As ever I really appreciate the advice and help that is being given.

Apologies again but a couple of further queries:

1.  where could I source some brass hand rails ?

2. thinking about weight, has anyone used liquid lead (or similar) and if so where and how. I was thinking of using it glued in a couple of tubes (think I have seen this idea somehere) and then glue the tubes onto the inside of the loco as near as possible to the kato chassis (to lower the c of G as far as possible)

I promise a couple of pics once I have finished the loco(s)

Thanks

Bob

[Isle of Stoner]

I get my handrails and knobs from evil bay. Just put 'handrail knob' in the search, usually seems to bring up something. Go for the shortest shanked knob you can find.

As for weight, cram as much lead etc inside as you can. None of my KATO powered locos could pull a skin of a rice pudding let alone a train up the gradients on my main line.

Look forward to the pics.

And Mick... I'm sorry for what I said. I'll wash my mouth out with beer. ;D

John W

[Hugh Norwood]

I have a final and probably stupid question - what is the best way to attach the Kato chassis to the body - I'd seen blu-tack mentioned

Regards

Bob

I have used 14BA (I think they are) cheese-head screws. Ther's no need to tap a thread. Drill clearance holes in the chassis and holes 0.5mm narrower in the body. The screw self-taps a thread as you (carefully) screw it it. I'll try to remember to post a photo of the underside on one of my locos.

Eileen's do handrail knobs and handrail wire (usual disclaimer) I think I got my small BA screws (bolts?) from Squires

[Hugh Norwood]

Right. Here is the underside of the Fairlie:


And the Dutch Tram loco:

I have used the small BA screw to hold the coupling in place, too!

Hope this helps..