Chris Ward Locos - help required !

[Hugh Norwood]

Very nice pair of locos, Bob

[berryr99]

Sorry Jim, I misread your location !

To my regret the nearest I have ever been to the Isle of Wight is sailing in a Thames Barge along the Solent some years ago. I'm pleased though that you are able to see live steam.

Thanks Hugh, I appreciate the encouragement, I hope my colleagues in the Tyne-Tees 009 group are impressed tomorrow !

Bob

[CWRailways]

Bob, good morning, I have never been here before, this is my first time on the forum, so I was interested to see the threads, (I think I have the lingo)
1) If you let me know your postal address regarding finishing, I will send you something in the post. You should have had an instruction leaflet in the box of the Loco when purchased.
unless you purchased one from our 'breakers yard' box at a show.
2) Meanwhile, no abrasives are recommended until after you have 'burnished' smoothed out the surface and applied at least 2 coats of your chosen paint.
3) Where the straitions occur smooth them with a 'Smooth' manicure stick (boots chemist 5 for

[berryr99]

Hi Chris,

I met you at the Expo NG show last October at Swanley.

Thank you for your comments which are very helpful.

I bought a complete loco and a "breaker" (it was not badly broken and I finished it with a few repairs ) so I have the instruction sheet thanks.

I ended up using a tool from Hobbycraft called "Sculpty" I think which has a rounded metal end and I was eventually very pleased with the finish I got.

I put a picture on the forum on 21st February of the (almost) completed locos.

I will hopefully be parting with some more hard earned cash next month when you are at Narrow Gauge North as I fancy doing a couple of the Hunslets next.

Bob

[berryr99]

I think this might be one of my final requests for help on this topic - I'm incredibly grateful for all the help thus far !

A fellow member of the Tyne-Tees 009 group has very kindly given me some suitable name plates for the two Growlers.

I'm not sure what the best way is of attaching them though.

The simplest way might be with Superglue but I have heard of other methods too.

I was planning to varnish the locos - not sure if nameplates go on after or before varnishing.

I would be grateful for any information that members can provide

Thanks

Robert Berry

[Isle of Stoner]

I use superglue and varnish over them but I've read that superglue isn't the best. I think there is advice on the Narrow Planet website.

See you at NGN.


John W

[Sven]

I would actually add the plates on AFTER the varnish. It doesn't need a coating.

Why don't you use a tiny bit of Slo-Zap. Superglue, but you have some time to adjust the plates. You never get it right the first time (well, I don't).

Another tip: I always used enamel paint to colour the nameplates, but I find the result not very good. Recently somebody told me to use a Sharpy (=permanent markers, for all of you outside of the UK) and that actually works perfect! Use fine sandpaper to get the text back, of course.

[berryr99]

Thanks guys, all very useful help.

Good tip on using permanent markers, I would never have thought of that

Bob

[JulienW]

To be honest a touch of varnish over the brass nameplates once fitted will prevent the brass tarnishing, and if you do the whole loco it may even help to keep the plates in place - come to think of it I might even have used varnish to stick plates on with!

[Sven]

That's not even a bad suggestion, Julien.

[Scott Rixon]

I have just purchased a couple of these.. What primer do you recommend? I've got a spray can that I used on a couple of 1:35th scale tanks. But it feels a little 'thick' for anything this small. Is there a difference in the primer? Or am I being too heavy handed?

[garrywhiting]

I have just purchased a couple of these.. What primer do you recommend? I've got a spray can that I used on a couple of 1:35th scale tanks. But it feels a little 'thick' for anything this small. Is there a difference in the primer? Or am I being too heavy handed?

I use PlastiKote spray can primer( available both in grey & white ). This is not because it has any inherent advantages, but because the local branch of Wilkinsons where I buy it, is only 5 minutes walk from my front door. However it covers well & it has never caused any problems.

One of the afflictions of the modern age appears to be impatience, problems start when insufficient drying & hardening time is allowed for between coats. Touch dry is simply not enough, the primer has to thoroughly cure and harden. My method is to apply a first light coat left to right then right to left on each face, wait 24 hours minimum, and then repeat but this time with the model turned through 180 degrees ( ie upside down ) . Now set aside and wait at least 48 hours before applying the top coat final colour.

Do not be tempted under any circumstances to use a domestic hair dryer to speed the drying process. 3D Printed resin models are heat sensitive and simple body heat from your fingers whilst holding the model can be sufficient to induce distortion.  Similarly do not leave the model in direct sunlight or indeed near any heat source.

My experience has been that acrylic paints work best on 3D printed resin models, the only time I used enamel paint caused no end of trouble ( but of course that could have been a rogue can of Humbol )  . I can thoroughly recommend the Belton-Molotow Premium spray can range, 251 different colours. I buy mine online from Graff City ( other suppliers don't appear to carry the full range of colours ) . Graff City are very good, delivery by courier within 48 hours ( and usually next day ).

Garry

[petersmith1942]

Gary
your advice is excellent. I use Halfords primer without any problems, grey to start and red later for freight stock. My latest Shapeways for US style HOn30 freight cars by mynermodels (pinddle) has virtually no straitions or lines and has cleaned up very well. I am beginning to think the quality of design is key. (My previous attempts to clean up a boxcab diesel by another designer have failed to remove deep ridges running along the roof and it remains unused).There was no residue or contamination of any sort on the white material and the first car was primed as soon as received. From order to delivery took 6 days and 3 days later I have 2 excellent cars and 3 to go. I think freight stock in 3D suits the state of the art better than locos but thats just my view
Pics are on my album in the HOn30 mail car yahoo group where there is a similar thread about 3D printing
In my impatience! for a quick result I used a spray can of enamel in the colour I wanted on a baggage car and as you say it took 3 days to dry
Peter Smith

[Scott Rixon]

That's good to know! And even better when it's stuff you can buy off the shelf.

I have an airbrush for the final top coat and also some matt varnish after that. I'm in no hurry, well, I want to test the loco in a hurry but the painting will take ages :)

Just need to figure out this burnishing you are all talking about! Any more tips? What exactly are you doing?

[Hobby]

I am beginning to think the quality of design is key.

From what I can gather it's the way they are printed that's the key. If a model is printed at a certain angle you can get perfectly flat sides with no layering but print it from a different angle and its lines all the way! I seem to remember one of the NGRM guys saying that getting Shapeways to print it the right way was at times difficult... At least Chris can design them and print them whichever way he thinks is best as he does both parts!