Problems with Peco 009 points

[berryr99]

I have been reading the threads on Peco 009 points ref. electrical bonding of blades to stock rails by connecting a switch to the frog and stock rails.

In a nutshell I was wondering if anyone know of a relatively simple method of doing this with the points in situ on the layout. I didn't realise that this option would help better running until it was far too late - about 5 years too late !

It is possible I think to drill the baseboard and solder in the new droppers but has anyone come up with a less difficult process. All of my points have point motors but access to them is very difficult

Thanks

Bob

[B.Meldon]

You are not alone with this problem. Many 009 modellers will build a layout assuming that the Peco points will work perfectly straight out the box, unfortunately many later discover through use that this is not the case.

There is no easy way to sort this out.

The best option is forward planning as I am sure you will do when you build another layout. But that will not help you with your present situation.

One option is to fit a set of contacts on the top surface of the layout using a simple rod system connected to the sole bar (The bit the point motor rod is located in.) Peco actually make a top mounted point motor base than can be adapted to take their accessory switch only, but these are bulky units, you may find it preferable to make something yourself using a two way micro-switch.
I have many point motors mounted on the top of the base board and I hide these with removable scenic sections, line side buildings or small huts. (All removable for access.) As a set of contacts would be somewhat smaller than a point motor this should be quite possible for you to do the same with the additional contacts.

As to the wires that are required it is again quite possible to run these on the top of the base-board to the switch and then disguise them with scenic materials. But obviously the soldering of the wires will still need to be done.
You will however find that not every point will require all three wires, in many cases you will find that you already have a wire soldered to the section of rail and you can just branch off that wire. Also if you have a series of points the

[berryr99]

Brian,

Thank you - this is a very helpful reply and gives options that (in my inexperience) I would not have thought off.

It has taken me 10 years to get to the stage that I am with the layout (I have this day job thing that interferes with what I really want to do !) so I don't want start again. I did not have the common sense to listen to what I was told about bonding the points when I started the layout so now its time to pay the price !

I think it will be possible to disguise all wires easily and also some surface mounted point motors will definitley fit in various buildings that can be adapted.

Yes I think I will only bond those points that have become problems.

Would Maplins have the sort of microswitch that I need ?

Thanks again for your help

Bob

[B.Meldon]

Bob,

I have not used the Maplin micro switches myself, the ones I have are probably some 40+ years old!
They will need to be SPDT switches and lightly sprung. Others on here may be able to give more advice on the suitability of the Maplin switches.

I have however found that Maplin is no where near as good as it used to be when it comes to electronic components. There was I time when the firm was based locally to me (my father knew the founders) and the supply of electronic components was their main business. To-day this is only a sideline, their main business is supplying ready made consumer electronics. Their component prices used to be very competitive but they are now over-priced compared to other on-line suppliers. The last switches I purchased were via an e-bay business seller and were about a quarter the price of Maplins.

However I do have one micro switch that looks just like the Maplin one with the small metal leaver fitted. This is set in a slight hollow so it is below rail height and acts directly on the point sole bar.

I did the first drawings for the layout that I am still doing the scenery for in 1989 and the majority of the work on the layout was actually done by the late Jack Carter who passed away in 2002, so I know all about long build times!

Brian Meldon

[gazzerk]

Would it be possible for someone to put a diagram on here to show exactly what wires are required and where they have to go please?

[B.Meldon]

I hope that this will help:



The feed wire from the centre of the switch can be on any rail connected to the V of the point.

This is the originating web page that you also my find usefull:

http://www.wymann.info/ShuntingPuzzles/Bazeley/LB-Construction.html

Brian Meldon

[gazzerk]

A great help thanks Brian.

All my points are fitted with peco point motors under the baseboard so I can't use the switch to change the points as in the diagram - could I use a separate switch?

[Graeme Dunbar]

Peco point motors can be fitted with their own switches ... at a price. 

[B.Meldon]

If the motors have the extended pins a Peco PL-13 accessory switch can be fitted to the motor, these are about

[B.Meldon]

These next few photos show some point switch installations I have in use:

First this is a Peco accessory switch fitted to a point motor:



Next is the most basic of toggle switch point operations. This point is not visible from the front of the layout.



Next a two way micro switch as installed with an extension to the switch bar acting directly on the point tie bar. As in the photo above this is on an old 9

[gazzerk]

This is all really useful stuff and thanks for taking the time to post it. I will try this on my layout as soon as I get the mini-soldering iron that I hope Father Christmas is bringing for me.

[gorwin]

As it seems a lot of people, including myself, have problems with 009 Peco Points, could someone send an article to the 009 journal on the best way to fix these points? "i.e. fixing points to the baseboard"

[B.Meldon]

Hi Gorwin

There is now no need for any such article as Peco updated the 12

[Tigger]

I've recently been working on my ancient Peco points and the only advice I can really offer is firstly to ensure you have everything scrupulously clean, secondly to use a good flux, and thirdly to apply the minimum amount of heat necessary to make a good joint (too much heat and you run the risk of distorting the track fixings).  A successful job however, is well worth the effort and really does reduce the 'frustration factor'.  I use small toggle dpst switches (sometimes with centre-off so both roads of a siding can be isolated) mounted on the side of the layout by drilling a 6mm hole (to take the switch) in a piece of brass strip which is then bent into an angle and screwed into the timber support.

[gorwin]

Thank you Brian, I find I am a bit confused regards all this, will have to study it more, the grey matter is slow taking it in. I did hear once at one of the exhibitions that the way you fasten the points to the baseboard made all the difference, but did not remember the instructions when making my two layouts, trouble with points is my frustration at the present time, will see if I can work out your excellent advice.