Points and point control for a beginner

[Graeme Dunbar]

I think people have had fun and shown great ingenuity with the knobs at the 'people' end. I've seen small cabinet handles being used.

[B.Meldon]

Here is an example ocf just how simple wire in tube point control with a two way switch as the leaver and changing the polarity in the point can be:

As can be seen in my post above the 'user' end of the wire can just be wrapped around the toggle on the two way switch.
You should find that the piano wire is hard to bend, but once bent into shape it will stay that way.

If you do not want to use a switch to change the frog polarity, and I recommend you do, you can make the leaver out of a brass strip with a 90 degree twist pivoted on a simple wood screw.  This is a photo of a wire-in-tube uncoupling ramp leaver, but it would work with points as well:
 

[Robert Kilby]

The members handbook would be a place good start.
Look In the members shop.

Well
The handbook came in yesterday's post. The first copy i ordered never arrived.
I read some of it last night...I'm sure it will help, but on first reading it left me rather baffled and somewhat down hearted !

[Graeme Dunbar]

The members handbook would be a place good start.
Look In the members shop.

Well
The handbook came in yesterday's post. The first copy i ordered never arrived.
I read some of it last night...I'm sure it will help, but on first reading it left me rather baffled and somewhat down hearted !

It all seems a bit alien to start with and the information can be hard to get across in writing. I think this is where having someone go over it face-to-face might help and is the sort of thing where an Area Group could be ideal. It is likely to make a lot more sense seeing in flesh (or plastic). Possibly it is something that could be done in a SIG over Zoom too?

[Julian Evison]

I read some of it last night...I'm sure it will help, but on first reading it left me rather baffled and somewhat down hearted !

I am sorry that this has been the outcome - not what is intended! Can you be a bit more specific about what has baffled you and hopefully we can help you.

Graeme's suggestion of asking help from an area group may well help too.

Julian

[John Galbraith]

Robert, there is a SIG for layout design and the members there would be able to talk you through things. You get in touch with Jörg Ehrsam and find out when the next zoom meeting is. If you have any problems getting in touch let me know.

[Robert Kilby]

Thanks very much for all the three kind and helpful comments above.
I have been learning Welsh for the last two years, quite hard work for a none linquist, but there was more new vocabulary in the section on points, motors and wiring them than in my last dozen or so lessons!
I have got to take a break for a while but will come back with some specific questions later.

[Graeme Dunbar]

I hope it doesn't put you off but things are not helped by modeller's jargon differing from that used by real permanent way engineers and then multiply by two for the differences either side of the Atlantic.   ;D (It's not that bad really.)

Hopefully though not as bamboozling as the Turbo Encabulator:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ac7G7xOG2Ag

[Dave Cooper]

Hi Robert,

From a fellow learner (Welsh and Model Railways), I make the case for 'tinkering' - low voltage of course, don't mess around with AC mains from the wall !

A simple PP3 type 9 volt battery will let you do a lot of experiments on track, accessories, loco's etc. and it's surprising what you can learn this way. Build a few simple electronic circuits (from a kit perhaps), 'blow up' a few diodes, LED's and a transistor or two and you will soon learn what works and what doesn't....the cost will be minimal, the learning great (and, fun !).

If in doubt....keep it simple /ask for help.

Cheers,
Dave

[Robert Kilby]

Hi Robert,

From a fellow learner (Welsh and Model Railways), I make the case for 'tinkering' - low voltage of course, don't mess around with AC mains from the wall !

A simple PP3 type 9 volt battery will let you do a lot of experiments on track, accessories, loco's etc. and it's surprising what you can learn this way. Build a few simple electronic circuits (from a kit perhaps), 'blow up' a few diodes, LED's and a transistor or two and you will soon learn what works and what doesn't....the cost will be minimal, the learning great (and, fun !).

If in doubt....keep it simple /ask for help.

Cheers,
Dave

Hmmm. Not sure about much of this ... Other than the wish to keep it simple !

[Dave Cooper]

Hi Robert,

From a fellow learner (Welsh and Model Railways), I make the case for 'tinkering' - low voltage of course, don't mess around with AC mains from the wall !

A simple PP3 type 9 volt battery will let you do a lot of experiments on track, accessories, loco's etc. and it's surprising what you can learn this way. Build a few simple electronic circuits (from a kit perhaps), 'blow up' a few diodes, LED's and a transistor or two and you will soon learn what works and what doesn't....the cost will be minimal, the learning great (and, fun !).

If in doubt....keep it simple /ask for help.

Cheers,
Dave

Hmmm. Not sure about much of this ... Other than the wish to keep it simple !

OK Robert -  how about a small battery, switch, bulb and a few wires to make the necessary connections ? That's about as simple as it comes ! (You will also find a low-cost 'Multimeter' invaluable for tracing faults etc. on a model railway....).

Have fun,
Dave

[Graeme Dunbar]

Yes, a multimeter is a very useful addition to the model railway toolbox. Just a day or two ago I traced a short where I thought I'd gapped a rail for an isolating section. It worked for a while but I think there might have been a whisker of metal left where I had not cut though completely and it bridged the gap.

[andy1878]

Yes, a multimeter is a very useful addition to the model railway toolbox.

I'd say essential.

At a pinch you can get away with a blub / LED on crocodile clips for voltage presence and add a battery for continuity checking.

A cheap multimeter will set you back a few quid. A really good one many tens and into the hundreds, you dont need an expensive one at this stage of the game.
The one that lives in my model tool box was around  £6.00. You'd cough at the current price of my professional one.

Learn to use it @ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lo8MWr3NuuM - I havent watched this right through.

[Graeme Dunbar]

They can be surprisingly cheap. I have more than one of this type:
https://cpc.farnell.com/duratool/d03046/multimeter-digital/dp/IN07220?mckv=s_dc|pcrid|426684131405|kword||match||plid||slid||product|IN07220|pgrid|100371162238|ptaid|pla-1751967123517|&CMP=KNC-GUK-CPC-SHOPPING-9262013734-100371162238-IN07220&s_kwcid=AL!5616!3!426684131405!!!network}!1751967123517!&gclid=CjwKCAiArNOeBhAHEiwAze_nKPSw9tfzGWkTmPjf72BI0abmflENAxIS0T4QORbSDvO9SajrCZX8GhoCN2MQAvD_BwE



Even though dirt cheap I trust a trader like CPC/Farnell not to sell absolute rubbish. It is the sort of thing that they would sell for student use and throwing in a toolbox, not serious test bench use. I would not use it for mains though.

[Tom Haythornthwaite]

The guy at my electronics shop here in Canada showed me their top model - I think it was $2,500.