Ballasting!

[Hobby]

The dreaded ballasting, you either love it or hate it. I am in the latter camp. So anything that says it will make it easier I will give a try, even if it costs a bit more than the DIY methods. So I've been trying out Deluxe Ballast Bond and Ballast Magic. Here I will post my thoughts of each of them.




I have no contact with the company so this review is purely based on my own use of the products.

[Hobby]

First Ballast Bond.

This is a liquid glue, white in colour and very thin. You use it in the same way as PVA/Water/Washing Up Liquid mix. First things first, after talking with others I do not think it is PVA, it seems to have more in common with a Copydex type glue as it sets with a sort of rubbery feel. they don't say what it is made from so unless someone analysis it we won't be able to find out! However it's not that important for the test!

It comes in a plastic bottle, either 100ml or a larger 500ml one. I used the 100ml and it covered about 7 or 8 yards of Peco mainline track. Attached to the bottle is a long thin applicator/tube, similar to those used in Labs I believe. You put the applicator on the end of the bottle and it will come out in drops similar to an eye dropper but with much better control. Squeeze the bottle and it will come out in a continual flow. It makes it very easy to put the liquid where you want it and in the right quantity.

The liquid itself is very thin and flows well into Javis Extra Fine Stone Ballast which is what I used with no clumping. The Javis ballast seems to be proper stone and nice and heavy. I did try it using the lighter stuff produced by Woodlands Scenics and the results were not as good with some clumping.

I left it overnight and it set well.

In summary then:
1. Used with proper stone ballast it works well.
2. The applicator works very well and for those who wish to use similar there are other similar products or Deluxe sell the extension tubes separately.

Overall it does what it says it will do, whether it is worth the extra over home made versions is down to the person. The costs (around

[Hobby]

Ballast Magic.

Ballast Magic is a powdered glue which you mix with the ballast and then spray with water. For those of us of a certain age we will remember modellers in the magazines in the '50s and '60s talking of using a powdered glue, usually Cascamite, and mixing it with the ballast and then wetting it after laying the track. This is the same set up. Again I don't know what the glue actually is (and neither does anyone else judging by the speculation on many forums).

Again I bought their "kit" which comes with a plastic bottle of Ballast Magic, a water spray bottle, measured mixing container and stirrer. You put the ballast in the measured mixing container, add enough Ballast Magic on top to create a 1:7 mix (quite easy using the markings on the outside of the container) and then mix thoroughly using the stirrer.

Once mixed you pour it onto the track and bed it in with a soft brush (which you supply!). I found it really useful for doing points where you could lay it and make sure you don't get any in places you shouldn't and I also used it to make up the "shoulders" of the ballast. Once you have got it looking to your satisfaction spray it with water using the spray bottle. The spray is very, very, fine and does not disturb the ballast, even using the lighter stuff.

Again best results were with proper stone ballast, though it did work OK with the light stuff. You need to leave it for 24 hours in a normally heated room to make sure it sets. It does grip quickly but can easily be dislodged before it sets. It's also very sticky and if you try to re-arrange your ballast after wetting it you will remove clumps on the end of your fingers! Don't do it!!

Summary time, then.
1. It does work well, or at least it did for me, looking at other people's comments elsewhere on the Web it seems about 50/50 success rate. Whether that is to do with getting the mix right or using decent stone ballast I am not sure!
2. The spray bottle gives a very fine and gentle spray and is key to getting the water onto the ballast without disturbing it. It works far better than any spray bottle I have used. Again after discussion with others a cheaper alternative may be a perfume spray (when it's run out and you can wash the bottle out, not before!!).
3. As for cheaper alternatives I am not too sure, you can still get Cascamite (or similar named products) but I don't know how they'd work.
4. The mixing container and stirrer could easily be sourced but make sure the container has markings down the side so you can measure the mix accurately.
5. Make sure you leave it at least 24 hours at normal room temperatures to set though.

Again overall it does what it says on the tin, of the two products I was more impressed with this product, it allowed me to position the ballast accurately and didn't move when I sprayed it.

[clayliner]

Ballasting? - I use the 'traditional method'.

Very satisfying and therapeutic! (Sorry!)

David.

[Hobby]

As i said, David, it's a love it or hate it subject!! ;)

In effect the liquid glue and applicator is just a newer take on the traditional method, whether it is worth the money is purely down to the individual. If you are happy with the way you do it then continue that way. I'd have a look at the tubes, though, if you currently use an eye dropper as they work far better than them.

[clayliner]

I think my eye dropper would be difficult to improve upon...!

Of course, your finished ballasting probably looks ten times better than mine, so I'll say no more.

David.

[Hobby]

I doubt it!

These are the nozzles suggested by one of the Peter's on NGRM:

https://shop-4-glue.com/glue-applicator-nozzles-ultra-fine-nano-micro-tips-for-glue-adhesives-resin-application-extra-long-751-p.asp

These are the ones sold by Deluxe:

https://deluxematerials.co.uk/collections/all-products/products/roket-glue-tips

[Hobby]

This is the result:

[Hugh Norwood]

Thanks for your comments; very useful!

[Hobby]

One further comment, when using the powdered glue when you come to the end of the container you will find all the ballast dust will have got down there and mixed with the glue. This doesn't set well as the water can't get through so either bin it (we are only talking tiny amounts) or pour some more ballast in and mix again.

[clayliner]

That's a fine marshalling yard you've built there!

My congratulations in that - as far as I can see - you've been courageous enough to ballast under your points. Some people seem to shy away from this, and clearly there are good reasons to be nervous about it, but in my experience as long as you clean up carefully afterwards and check that everything moves and isn't stuck together then it's fine. And it looks so much better.

David.

[Hobby]

Cheeky s*d, this is proper narrow gauge, none of you namby pamby British stuff!  ;D

The station has a loading bay on the left and loco shed on the right, the kickback will have a small factory at the top right! :)

I ballasted all the points using Ballast Magic (the powdered glue). That allowed me to position the ballast exactly where I wanted it and the spray doesn't move it. Worked well. It's all laid on cork to raise the rail level.

[Steve Facknell]

Once ballast is laid- very fine spray first, I use an old Avon mist spray , then , using a pipette, apply dilute PVA with a drop of detergent. Mask turnouts and ballast separately once the rest has dried.
Works for me in 009, 3mm, 00 and 7mm.
Use ballast from Attwoods Agregates.
Steve

https://dorsetrailwaymodelling.blogspot.com/

[B.Meldon]

I have always found ballasting easy.
I use granite chippings and have a pipettte to deliver the 50/50 pva /water with a drop of washing up liquid.
I find that the granite chippings do not move when the drops of glue are applied, they stay where they were placed.

[Alan Pollock]

Hi Guys

I'm looking at purchasing the Bachmann ballest but am a bit confused to witch one to buy can anyone please point me in the right direction particularly if you have a product code that I can use please and thanks

Thanks
Alan