Ballasting!

[JulienW]

When it comes to ballast most for the OO scale stuff looks over scale so I've always used that labelled as N scale.

As to what colour that's a bit dependent on the type of railway you are modelling.  A 'modern' preserved line would use something similar to standard gauge (might even be recycled standard gauge ballast) that is most likely to be granite or limestone. Otherwise the stone would be whatever was available locally, and could be crutches quarried store, shingle (from a beach or river or gravel pit), sand, (similar sources) or what ever else was to hand (some of the WW1 lines supplying the trenches used the rubble from shelled villages they might pass).

As time past and maintenance lapsed on a poorly funded NG line the ballast would disaster under weeds/soil to the point where it would be invisible - I'm thinking of the Talyllyn when the preservationists took over as an example.

Hope that helps...

[Alan Pollock]

When it comes to ballast most for the OO scale stuff looks over scale so I've always used that labelled as N scale.

As to what colour that's a bit dependent on the type of railway you are modelling.  A 'modern' preserved line would use something similar to standard gauge (might even be recycled standard gauge ballast) that is most likely to be granite or limestone. Otherwise the stone would be whatever was available locally, and could be crutches quarried store, shingle (from a beach or river or gravel pit), sand, (similar sources) or what ever else was to hand (some of the WW1 lines supplying the trenches used the rubble from shelled villages they might pass).


As time past and maintenance lapsed on a poorly funded NG line the ballast would disaster under weeds/soil to the point where it would be invisible - I'm thinking of the Talyllyn when the preservationists took over as an example.

Hope that helps...

Hi Julian

Do you have a product number to the stuff you use so I can have a look online that way I should be able to have a look at the colours when I enter the number as the search engine should show a list of them hopefully

Thanks
Alan

[Alan Pollock]

Hi Guys,

I should give a bit more detail on what I'm thinking at the moment I don't really model a particular area so more fictional areas so theirs no reason for sticking to particular items although I did do a bit of a search and found an eBay link I appreciate that this might go against the society rules but sometimes it easy to let you see what I'm looking at so the item I seen is listed below sorry admin/committee but is the item worth considering

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/114421233312?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338268676&toolid=10044&customid=CjwKCAjwwdWVBhA4EiwAjcYJEFW0pvXP7S2OfgL8kTMHP-kJ-esWxkSzYXNcKFF9OsCGUbDAhl1j7hoC1QMQAvD_BwE

Thanks
Alan

[Graeme Dunbar]

I've not seen that type before. (It may have been on the DCC Concepts stand at Glasgow though.) It looks OK.

https://www.dccconcepts.com/product/2mmn-scale-ballast-grey-blend/

The close-up photo looks good.

I agree about choosing the N scale stuff - OO it too big. Also I would choose the lighter colour version as you have. Many manufacturers say it does not go darker when glued down but I'm not convinced. It is a lot easier to darken it if needed by dribbling in some 'dirty water' or very dilute blackish-brownish paint wash.

[JulienW]

Hi Julian

Do you have a product number to the stuff you use so I can have a look online that way I should be able to have a look at the colours when I enter the number as the search engine should show a list of them hopefully

Thanks
Alan

Unfortunately not, sorry. I bought what I have in stock - finely crushed granite sold as N scale ballast - probably 30 years ago, so the bag has given up the ghost (probably about 20 years ago!) and it now sits in an old margarine tub, it may even be on its second tub by now!

To be honest if you are using 'real' materials - like crushed granite to represent granite ballast - then you shouldn't go far wrong, no matter whose product it is.

When it comes to fixing it down then if you are going to use the traditional 50/50 mix of water and PVA with a dash of washing up liquid then it might be worth adding my observations:

If the washing up liquid is coloured then this will transfer onto the ballast, so,it's better to use a clear colourless one (rather than the green, yellow, red, blue, purple etc that seem to be popular on the supermarket shelves)

If using standard PVA this can dry with a shiny/ glossy finish, and the last thing you want is shines ballast! You could correct this with some weathering (or Matt varnish) once the ballast has dried, but as an alternative to PVA glue I've had good results using water based 'matt media' bought from an art supply shop - brand is fairly unimportant, just get whatever is cheapest.

If you are not quite sure what your ballast is made from try a test piece first. I've come across some stuff that floated - might have been ground cork? - so my usual 'wet' method just didn't work.

[Graeme Dunbar]

I've just checked my stock and most of it is Jarvis Scenics.

http://javis.co.uk/index.php?page=shop.browse&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=2

I don't think there was any special considerations behind the choice. It was probably just what was available that the shop or more likely the exhibition where I bought it.

I'm not convinced by the 'Fairy liquid' green colour theory. I had some supposedly genuine granite ballast and it turned green. It seems unlikely to have been the colour of the liquid as (from memory) I put a drop in some water and then transferred a small amount of the diluted liquid to the water I used to dilute the PVA. I think I remember reading about 'granite' model ballast turning green due to the minerals in it.

I don't know what the stuff I use is made from. It appears to be mineral but is quite lightweight. When spraying to dampen it (plant sprayer/mister) I have to point the sprayer upwards or at least sideways and let the spray drift downwards as the ballast goes everywhere if I aim the sprayer at the track. (I guess I could just spray from further away!)

[JulienW]

I'm not convinced by the 'Fairy liquid' green colour theory. I had some supposedly genuine granite ballast and it turned green. It seems unlikely to have been the colour of the liquid as (from memory) I put a drop in some water and then transferred a small amount of the diluted liquid to the water I used to dilute the PVA. I think I remember reading about 'granite' model ballast turning green due to the minerals in it.

That's possible Graeme, knowing that some of the granitic rocks do contain 'interesting' elements - hence the incidence of Radon gas in areas of granite rock - but based on my own experience I didn't get the greenish cast when I used a colourless (ecologically friendly) washing up liquid, but did when I used one of the green cheapo supermarket ones.

[David Weber]

I do not use any washing up liquid in the ballasting glue mix,

Instead, the track and ballast is wetted with a spray bottle before applying the glue mix. This is sufficient to break the surface tension of the glue mix (which is what causes clumping) without any washing up liquid.

Admittedly the spray bottle can cause issues as if the spray is too powerful it will push the ballast around. I have a very fine spray mist bottle which used to hold perfume and this moistens the area consistently without disturbing the ballast at all.

[clayliner]

That's possible Graeme, knowing that some of the granitic rocks do contain 'interesting' elements -   

Think of all the ores mined on the flanks of granite areas in Devon and Cornwall: tin, lead, copper, tungsten [Hemerdon mine] and so on. I recall seeing distinct green malachite in mainline granite ballast (near Bristol) some years ago. I somehow doubt it would turn model ballast green, though I might well be wrong. Other transition metals could produce a range of interesting colours! (As far as radiation goes, I don't think anyone need worry about granite ballast  :) )

David.

[Hugh Norwood]

I checked this idea with the forum's resident chemist, but I think you could use IPA (Isopropyl alcohol) as the wetting agent instead of washing up liquid.

You'd have to check first that it does not affect the setting time of the glue.

I haven't tried this myself.