Building a 3D print diesel loco

[Brian Mosby]

I am building a Tebee El Cheapo 009 diesel loco
so far i have just given it a coat of halfords Filler primmer (well what was left in the can)
once it is dry i will see what need doing next
tune in for more later today

[Brian Mosby]

here are the photos
before primmer

100_6657 by Mozzer models, on Flickr

& after a coat of filler primmer

100_6658 by Mozzer models, on Flickr


next job is to give the loco a light sanding

[Brian Mosby]

I have sanded the body with No 400 wet & dry ( keeped dry) & a old blunt flat file this gave me this finish
If i had had more paint in the tin then i would have given the filler primmer a thicker coat


100_6659 by Mozzer models, on Flickr

as the finished modle is going to be in a maroon livery the body has been given a coat of Halfords red primmer

100_6661 by Mozzer models, on Flickr

100_6662 by Mozzer models, on Flick

I am happy with this finish so once the primmer is fully dry later today /tomorow i will give the body its maroon paint

[Brian Mosby]

the time taken to sand & file was only 10 minutes

[Brian Mosby]

well the body now has a coat of Halfords Rover Damask Red car spray paint once this is dry & hard I will get on to painting the roof, footplate & solebars

heres how it looks

100_6663 by Mozzer models, on Flickr

100_6664 by Mozzer models, on Flickr

[tedp]

That's a very good result in only two or three stages. Perhaps I should have used Halfords car spray as well!

[Brian Mosby]

That's a very good result in only two or three stages. Perhaps I should have used Halfords car spray as well!

as its a car spray paint it is a thick paint so helps to cover over blemishes

& as my job is building models & painting them I do try & find a Halfords paint that matches I have a list that ever Larry Godards has help fill in

[cnw6847]

its a good colour and you've got a nice finish on it.

[Graeme Dunbar]

It really shows the potential of 3D printing when time, patience and skill are applied and what can be done in the hands of someone who knows what to do. It is a long way from the original that looked like it was made from foam rubber or sponge cake!

I do wonder though (as the kit is intended for beginners) what difference it would make in price if the model was printed in finer quality material. Given the extra time spent preparing the surface, what sort of hourly rate would one need to pay (oneself) before it makes 'economic' sense to start with a higher quality and more expensive print material?

Or on the other hand, given that a beginner will not be able to achieve such good results in finishing the model, what quality of printing best matches the eventual finish that a beginner can hope to achieve?

Given the limitations of the material it was an excellent plan on behalf of the designer to 'beef up' the detail so that it is not obliterated during preparation. I have a model from a Shapeways shop and the finest detail on it is hardly more distinct than the surface roughness.

[tedp]

I agree it might be useful to find out what it would cost when printed in FUD plastic. It would make finishing even easier. Suppose the 3D print would cost twice what it costs now, you might have an (almost) ready to run loco at below 50 pounds.

Regarding painting, I think most people will be able to handle a can of spray paint if the model is put on a sheet of newspaper outside the house.

[Brian Mosby]

Or on the other hand, given that a beginner will not be able to achieve such good results in finishing the model, what quality of printing best matches the eventual finish that a beginner can hope to achieve?

I have done this topic to pass on the knowledge of how to go about painting a 3d printed body theres nothing here that a beginner could not do.
As ted says most people will be able to handle a can of spray paint if the model is put on a sheet of newspaper outside the house.

Yes i build kits as my Job so i know what to do but there is nothing hard to finishing these body to a good finish for a beginner

[Brian Mosby]

well I have now finished painting the body apart from weathering & thats it i do any to it

the Roof was painted with Humbrol Acrylic No27
the Radiator was painted with Citadel Paint ( Games Workshop) Leadbelcher
& the Footplate/ Solebars were painted with Citadel Paint ( Games Workshop) Abaddon Black
The 1st 2 photos were taken in the same place as the other shots so the lighting is the same in all the photos so far

100_6665 by Mozzer models, on Flickr

100_6666 by Mozzer models, on Flickr

the Next 3 photos are taken in My 009 photo booth the body is only sat on the rails as i am still awating the chassis to arrive from Japan

100_6667 by Mozzer models, on Flickr

100_6668 by Mozzer models, on Flickr


& this shows the hight next to a Bryin kits L&B coach

100_6669 by Mozzer models, on Flickr


Once the chassis arrives Dean my son will have his 1st 009 loco

[cnw6847]

looks really good.

[tedp]

It does look quite good, Brian. Are you going to weather it just as the Kerr Stuart next to it? And the size is very similar as well.

[Graeme Dunbar]

Regarding painting, I think most people will be able to handle a can of spray paint if the model is put on a sheet of newspaper outside the house.

Yes, and most people will produce results that are markedly inferior. I think it is playing down what has been demonstrated here. Stick a cheap fiddle under Vanessa-Mae's chin and you will hear wonderful music.

The architect Frank Lloyd Wright is reputed to have said "an expert is a man who has stopped thinking - he knows" (or something like that).

His quote is another way of expressing the state of unconscious competence. Of course any able bodied person can move a bit of abrasive paper about and press the button on a can of spray paint but it doesn't mean the result will be the same.

It is all fine to know about dust and temperature and humidity and if painting outside only spraying when the air is still and to use a large cardboard box as a spray booth and making sure the model is held securely on a stand that allows you to position it at will and set it down to dry under cover afterwards and shaking the can for at least as long as it says (because you never shake it as much as you think) and press the button as you sweep past but well before it is the line of the model and to release it again once you have swept well past it and not being too far away so the solvent evaporates before the paint hits the model or too close so that it floods and runs and to try it out on a test piece immediately before approaching the actual model because not all spray cans are the same and the same can that worked perfectly last time might spit and sputter this time and to sweep in different directions to cover the model, paying particular attention to internal corners so they get an adequate coating without drenching the bits of the model that stick out in from of it and many many more things beside including knowing when to hold back when things do go wrong and not panic any try to remove that insect that has stuck to the model with your thumb in the vain belief that a quick overspray will hide the damage..... but after all that it still takes practice.

Beginners can really foul things up!   ;D ;D