Building a 3D print diesel loco

[petersmith1942]

True Graeme, but maybe pessimistic?
Yes, some will pick it up very quickly, some more slowly and some will never get there. The latter are perhaps in the wrong hobby and its one reason why I could never run a model shop or do my hobby as a business
The essential message however is valid especially for the sort of people interested enough to join this forum and similar. 3D is gradually becoming respectable. I dont like skirts or "magic carpets" unless they cover some attempt at what should be there, but thats just my view and if these items get people involved who am I to be sniffy about them
One great benefit of this forum is seeing the progressive efforts of others and the invariably encouraging comments in response; I am certainly learning to hold fire on my comments until I can really see what is going on and am often surprised at how "sows ears" often become quite silky purses
Peter Smith

[Graeme Dunbar]

Yes, I did lay it on rather thick didn't I?  ::)

In one of his books, Iain Rice differentiates between "assembling a kit" and "building a model from a kit". Beginners are most likely to first category so the kit designer should do most of the work for the customer. I think that the advantage of providing a complete body shell that needs no assembly is somewhat offset by giving the customer extra work to do preparing the surface for finishing in the name of economy.

Regarding painting, I bought 'Airbrushing for railway modellers' by George Dent and one word changed my approach: denibbing, and the realization that surface defects were a common hazard that had to be dealt with and not a sign of ultimate failure, though of course to be minimised. (I'm making a ukulele kit at the moment - nothing to do with railways - and I'm quite pleased with the result having finally accepted that it requires layer after layer of brushed varnish rubbed down in between coats.)

Painting is a dark art for many. Apparently, if you know what you are doing, you can overspray acrylics with cellulose paint, but on the other hand if you don't, then spraying one sort of acrylic over another can turn the surface into a crinkly mess.

[tedp]

Well it WAS laid on a bit thick indeed - almost 10 lines of solid advice to tie yourself in knots over.

One thing I didn't mean to do is play down Brian's work which is very good. I referred to spray painting a FUD printed model (which you suggested). This probably takes far less work since there is no surface to seal first. But it doesn't take into account that handling a spray can for the first time may result in mistakes being made. The only answer is practice first on a trial piece.

[Brian Mosby]

The chassis has now arrived so i have fitted the chassis with Peco new NEM cupling which once you have uncliped the N-gauge pocket & removed the old one the peco coulping just slots in to the pocket

100_6683 by Mozzer models, on Flickr

& here is the loco with am assorted roling stock to show the size of the loco

peco van

100_6684 by Mozzer models, on Flickr

100_6685 by Mozzer models, on Flickr

100_6686 by Mozzer models, on Flickr

100_6687 by Mozzer models, on Flickr

[tedp]

It does look good, Brian. It's slightly taller than the H0 scale stock but that is very small to start with. The Peco L&B 4-wheelers are small vehicles as well.

The diesel is very neat - it looks a bit like a shortened West Clare diesel. I also like what you showed of the 009 coupler fitting into the Kato chassis. I decided to keep the N gauge couplers on the saddle tank for my own use, but others may want to change that.