Locomotive and stock maintenance: tools, consumables and procedures

[Graeme Dunbar]

The subject of maintenance (and over enthusiastic maintenance) came up on another thread - my fault sorry! To prevent further thread drift and because I think it could be of general benefit, here's this thread.

Nigel Lawton has produced a list general modelling tools "A Modeller's Toolkit":http://www.nigellawton009.com/A_Modelers_Toolkit_V3.pdf

but what would be the equivalent, purely for maintenance? Similarly, what is a sensible maintenance regime? What greases and oils are preferred and what are the conditions to avoid? (example lubricants and cleaning fluids suitable for use on plastics).   

[petersmith1942]

interesting topic
I only use Labelle oils obtainable from traders selling US models; they do various grades including a gear oil. No 8 seems the most versatile for valve gear, wheel bearings and as far as I know it is compatible with all plastics. I keep my track scrupulously clean with surgical spirit and never need to clean wheels. I am still learning that less is more and now apply with a piece of fine wire or a long pin
I have tried Peco products and most of the specialist products on sale to US modellers for track cleaning and conductivity and have found none better than Labelle and surgical spirit.
I often use surgical spirit as a degreasant prior to painting and it works fine;
All usual disclaimers and I know from many years in the hobby that many have favoured lubricants and cleaners that they swear by and would not change
Peter Smith

[Krizzy]

I have done a few exhibitions now and then over the years. So my models run quite a few scale miles over a weekend. Before every exhibition all the tracks are cleaned, point motors checked and operated as well as checking my rolling stock. Couplings are also checked for damage as sometimes at the end of the previous show things are a bit hectic putting one's models away before dismantling the layout. All locos and rolling stock wheels pick up dirt however cleaned beforehand. So clean your freight and coaching stock from time to time. How you do that is your own preference. I use a fibreglass brush that some of you will probably be disgusted at but very rarely do I have problems. Plastic wheels do have a tendancy to pick up dirt that does need scraping off. Do some of you wonder why your wagons keep derailing? Look at the wheels. I scrape off the dirt with one of my jewellers screwdrivers. I apply any lube oil sparingly with an old brush with very few bristles! Occasionally at shows we have couplings either break or break off the stock so I always have some spares ready to replace any of those damaged.

At shows people often ask how we achieve slow running, the answer is always cleanliness of track and stock.

Roger

[tedp]

As to lubricants for engines, I use simple motor oil intended for cars. This is sparingly applied with a needle or a very fine screwdriver. Motor bearings, and gears, anything. I haven't known plastic gears to fail due to light oiling. When I take an engine apart for maintenance either due to failure on the track or due to having to remedy wear, I always clear away any excess oil that may have accumulated. A favourite spot is a keeper plate under a chassis. An engine taken apart completely will have all its gears and axles cleaned with a paper tissue. I hardly use degreasing agents, unless cleaning a filthy second hand chassis.

Rolling stock is only lubricated using graphite. Like Roger says, plastic wheels collect more dirt than metal wheels, but even those sometimes need to be scraped with a screwdriver. My stock clocks up quite a mileage due to the length of run on the layout.

[berryr99]

Good afternoon,

I don't know if a chassis-specific query should sit in this thread but I'll raise the issue and then establish if it needs a new thread.

I have a couple of Arnold Series 2 chassis which won't run. I have established that the motor is getting power but it is not running at all.

I was wondering how to strip down the motor - I have it out of the chassis:

The problems are:

1. I can't see how to get into it

2. What do I clean and how

I have posted a picture just to remind about the motor

I would be grateful for any advice that could be given

Bob Berry

[B.Meldon]

Good afternoon,

I don't know if a chassis-specific query should sit in this thread but I'll raise the issue and then establish if it needs a new thread.

I have a couple of Arnold Series 2 chassis which won't run. I have established that the motor is getting power but it is not running at all.

I was wondering how to strip down the motor - I have it out of the chassis:

The problems are:

1. I can't see how to get into it

2. What do I clean and how

I have posted a picture just to remind about the motor

I would be grateful for any advice that could be given

Bob Berry

Hi Bob

Unfortunately the Arnold motors do have a tendency to burn out. Especially when used on KPC feedback controllers. But other pulse type and feedback controllers can have the same effect.

So my guess is that they indeed burnt out, but you may be lucky.

The first thing to check is if the motor turns by hand and is not seized up or all melted together inside.

Next have you applied power direct to the motor?

I can see both the rectangular brushes in the photo above, so try applying power using a couple of wires from a controller set on about

[tedp]

Bob - the brushes can be removed by lifting the phosphor bronze clips over the plastic studs visible just above the tiny sprung arm pressing on to the brushes. I would remove the brushes first and clean them and the channel in the plastic part of the motor. The commutator should be visible inside the channel if you shine a light into it. Check if it is very worn or dirty.

From what I see, the brush in the photo hasn't worn a great deal as its end is still visible. Clean the brushes, commutator etc using some alcohol or surgical spirit. A discarded paintbrush will do for cleaning the commutator.

Then reassemble the motor and see if it will run.

[berryr99]

Brian and Ted,

I followed both sets of instructions to the letter.

The motor was freely rotating and had electrical connectivity internally

I took out the brushes and cleaned everything up - the commutator/contacts and brushes were filthy. I used surgical spirit

Put everything back and the motor is running like a dream !

This is the first motor I have ever fixed.

Thanks guys, I really appreciate this level of expertise and help.

Bob

[berryr99]

Gentlemen,

I'm pleased to say that I have just sorted out the other two chassis in exactly the same way !

Thanks again

Bob

[tedp]

Glad it could be fixed!  ;D

[Malcolm]

Just for the avoidance of doubt on my part but is surgical spirit what I call methelated spirit / meths? ???
Malcolm

[berryr99]

I was using Surgical Spirit which is sold as such by pharmacists. I don't think its meths although meths is the major constituent.

Bob B.

[gtmspyder]

Isn't Methylated spirit just surgical spirit with an additive added to make it more noxious to drink?

BrianT.

[Graeme Dunbar]

I think both are denatured alcohol (ethanol). To the best of my knowledge:

Meths/metho/methylated spirits as the name suggests contains a proportion of methanol or "wood spirit" (the stuff that makes drinkers of it blind) and so contains a dye and something that makes it taste bad.

Surgical spirit (rubbing alcohol) contains/may contain isopropyl alcohol (IPA) and other substances.

The smell of meths for me will forever be associated with a Triang track cleaning wagon from my childhood and to the best of my knowledge all surgical spirit has an instantly recognisable "clinical" smell.

It is no doubt completely false but perhaps due to the smell I had always assumed surgical spirit left a resinous residue.

Pure "IPA" is a good cleaning agent and available in largish volumes and not too expensive:
http://mistralie.co.uk/products/ipa-isopropyl-alcohol-technical?gclid=CIGZ7tP0u7YCFbLMtAodkk8AFg

http://compare.ebay.co.uk/like/390283951465?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar&adtype=pla&crdt=0

A quick check on Amazon and 99% pure IPA is little more expensive than Meths.

[petersmith1942]

I was concerned that surgical spirit was contaminated in some way eg by other antiseptic agents giving rise to a residue but over time I have not found this to be the case
I have mineralised methylated spirit and Isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol as referenced in US modelling magazines but have never used as surgical spirit works ok for me
Peter Smith