Locomotive and stock maintenance: tools, consumables and procedures

[Elmgate]

I was concerned that surgical spirit was contaminated in some way eg by other antiseptic agents giving rise to a residue but over time I have not found this to be the case
I have mineralised methylated spirit and Isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol as referenced in US modelling magazines but have never used as surgical spirit works ok for me
Peter Smith

I too would be worried that Surgical Spirit contains other agents, giving it a distinct "medical" smell. I have always used Isopropyl, bought at my local chemist in 500 ml bottles - lasts forever!

Tim

[berryr99]

Now that I have removed 3 Arnold Series 2 motors from their chassis and cleaned them so that they are running well I have a little problem - what to use to stick them back to the chassis.

I suppose the real issue is that they will need to be removed now and again for further cleaning so whatever is used needs to be able to allow the motors to be removed again.

I'd thought of running a wire round the motor and through the chassis and then tightening it up on top of the motor but I wondered if anyone had any other ideas - especially adhesives. I had thought about Superglue because it can usually be cracked with a scalpel.

Bob

[B.Meldon]

There was no original fixing for the motors as such.
The N gauge body held the motor down with a small spring between the two.
Some 009 body kits have a moulding in the white metal to do the same thing but some do not.

You can hold the motor down with a wire tie temporaraly, but I usualy stick them down with a tiny amount of super glue, so they can come apart again if needed.

Brian Meldon

[Krizzy]

Bob

I have replaced a number of motors in different chassis, e.g., LH17 5-pole open frame motors in Ibertren and a Fleischmann 0-4-0 chassis. They need support in the chassis block with packing. To do that I use good old EVO-STIK impact glue. I have done the same just this week with EVO-STIK to hold an Arnold motor in the chassis block. I find EVO-STIK is not a permanent fixture, it is a forgiving glue that enables you to remove the motor if the worm does not mesh as intended to re-attach the replacement motor.

Roger

[WALLSHIRTS]

I've got one held in with blu-tak
Mal

[tedp]

I have used silicone sealant with success. It will even fill an empty space if you fit a non standard motor to a chassis. I won't confirm tales of acid corrosion of metal components - never experienced it. Mesh the worm on the wormwheel and fix the motor in place with tape whilst the sealant sets.

[JulienW]

I have used silicone sealant with success. It will even fill an empty space if you fit a non standard motor to a chassis. I won't confirm tales of acid corrosion of metal components - never experienced it. Mesh the worm on the wormwheel and fix the motor in place with tape whilst the sealant sets.

In theory the acetic acid released as the silicone sealant cures could cause problems, but I suspect only if you fixed the motor in place, then immediately re-fitted the body, or put the chassis and motor in some sort of enclosed box, so that the acid fumes could not escape.

[rod335]

Most of my motors, if I can't use the mounting screws for any reason, are held in place with Superglue. Despite warnings of dire problems I've not yet encountered any. And if, for any reason, the motor has to come out, it is a simple job to break the bond as Superglue has little sheer strength. There is, after all, no law that says motors must be screwed to chassis.

Rod

[berryr99]

Thank you gents,

Ted - do you mean bathroom sealant such as you would use to seal around tiling ?

With three chassis I will try all three methods I think and see which is the best

Bob

[B.Meldon]

Try to avoid getting any addesive on the locating pins as this may prove difficult to remove in the future.

Brian Meldon

[berryr99]

Thanks Brian, I will be carefull

Bob

[rod335]

Bob

Will you be at the AGM? If so we must meet up.

Rod

[tedp]

Thank you gents,

Ted - do you mean bathroom sealant such as you would use to seal around tiling ?

With three chassis I will try all three methods I think and see which is the best

Bob

that's the stuff.

[berryr99]

Rod,

Yes - I will try to make the AGM

Look forwards to meeting you

Bob

[berryr99]

Gents,

I'm afraid that my lack of experience is about to be highlighted again.

I have got all three Arnold chassis working far better than they ever did thanks to your help.

Now I have a problem with an Ibertren Cuckoo chassis. I've cleaned the motor and it runs fine but there's a problem that one of the wheel contact wipers is not quite getting onto the wheel rim. Its not worn out but for some reason it doesn't quite reach down far enough.

I know its a stupid question but I'm assuming I need to just try and bend it down a little more ?

I have posted a photo of the chassis and the contact wiper is the one just above the front wheel

Thanks

Bob