Underlay/trackbed

[Graeme Dunbar]

Some interesting points have been raised in the thread on Peco points and lest I and others take it further off topic I thought I'd start a new thread....

What do people use for underlay (if they use it at all)?

and as a related subsidiary question, what is used to hold the track down?

Some people are of the opinion that the track should be fixed rigidly to the the baseboard/trackbed. I have used this method for T gauge:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kw8SCKRFH_U
The trackbed in this case is two laminations of 3 mm polystyrene sheet and the track is glued down with cyanoacrylate glue. The reason being that the track is a folded figure of 8 or "twice round" and the track had a mind of its own no matter how I tried to coax it into shape and so needed fixing very firmly.

However for 009 and N gauge I've used 3 mm black foam bought an a model railway exhibition as a "high-tech" cork sheet replacement and glued it to the baseboard and the track to it with UHU or equivalent impact or contact adhesive. (Beware! the solvent based type attacks Peco N gauge setrack.)

The reasons for doing so were for sound deadening (I've not noticed any improvement) and something I read in an Iain Rice book on "floating" trackbeds. (I think he recommended camping mat foam, which is a lot thicker.)

What to people use and why?

[Hobby]

Never bothered I'm afraid, Graeme, straight to the baseboard!

(Should have guessed you'd have a dabble in T!  ;D )

[B.Meldon]

I am the same as Blair.
I use no underlay of any type and the track fixed firmly to the wooden track bed.
I have never found the

[rhobat bryn]

I have never found the ‘noise’ of 009 locos to be any problem at all and the idea of ‘floating’ track work in 009 when the running is so dependant on perfect track and rail joints sound like a recipe for problems to me.

I take on board your concern and advice regarding floating trackwork.  However, when you say that you have never had a noise problem, do you mean that the noise level is at an acceptable level, or you do not regard the noise issue as being a problem at all?

[B.Meldon]

......when you say that you have never had a noise problem, do you mean that the noise level is at an acceptable level, or you do not regard the noise issue as being a problem at all?

At exhibitions the ambient noise in the room will drown out the noise created by the models so there is not problem at all at exhibitions.
The noise at home in a room with just yourself and the trains can be noticeable with some older chassis, probably the worst being the 1960

[rhobat bryn]

Many thanks, Brian.  That's very instructive.

[duttonbay]

If you use an "open frame" type of construction, then my experience is that the noise doesn't really become an issue until the in-fill scenery layer is installed, at which time the whole frame becomes like a resonating sounding board. It's a difficult thing to sort out, and I agree with Brian that having the track securely laid is vital in our narrow gauge. The quietest boards I have are those with the trackbed of 1/2" ply wood, but they are also the heaviest.

[rhobat bryn]

I agree with Brian that having the track securely laid is vital in our narrow gauge.

Yes, I believe I'll be following Brian's advice on this that correct running has to be the priority, expecially as this is my first layout.

[Graeme Dunbar]

Thanks. It is giving me something to think about. I have always followed the herd an received wisdom that using underlay was the way to do it.

As has been said, noise from the baseboard is often not an issue at exhibitions (especially when you are placed next to a trade stand selling DVDs and they are keen to advertise their wares!) However, whatever I've built has seemed quite noisy at home.

[davanvalley]

I'm no expert but, like several others here, I lay my track direct to the base boards. In my case they are 6mm ply.

A mate of mine, some years ago, covered his boards in cork and then laid his 00 track on top in thge usual way. He ballasted part of it using the PVA glue and water technique. What I found very interesting was that the locos ran very quietly over the track section where there wasn't any ballast but the transmitted noise increased when they reached the ballasted part.

In view of that, I've never bothered.
Regards,
Dave

[B.Meldon]

[Mike Griff]

I'm tending towards the "direct to ply wood" approach, also i have noticed that the noise level rises with the addition of ballast despite sound reducing underlay, due to the rigidity of the ballast/glue compound. Its not as if its thunderous noise levels really. Another sound amplifier seems to be wooden flooring, layouts in attic spaces seem to have noise problems that transmit to the rooms below, the only solution to that is in the layout supports and fixings it would seem, or issuing family ear plugs.

[pilotfriend]

In my mind, track should never be pinned but glued and finally held in place by the ballast, just like the real thing. Thin ply is the obvious choice and frankly, I do not think the noise will affect those below. If they can hear the occasional train, might I suggest getting them to play some Death Metal by Napalm Death. They will never be able to hear anything ever again.

JdF

[rhobat bryn]

In my mind, track should never be pinned but glued and finally held in place by the ballast, just like the real thing.

May I ask why you prefer to glue rather than pin?

[pilotfriend]

Fisrtly, I have seen too much distorted track when pins are used.

The main reason is that I like to set track with my eye at rail level, (just like a real track foreman). This prevents any small kink or kick in the track. I use 20 minute epoxy so I have the time to get the track looking 'just so'.