society kit and greenwich coupling

[Gert Visser]

Greetings to all.
I am new to the society and also to 009 modelling. I just started with a kit of an open wagon. I now want to attach Greenwich couplings, but am a bit at a loss how to do this.
Do I file a slot in the end beam and glue the coupling on the underside of the wagon? Or is it better to bend the coupling shaft around the beam? And is it best to use super glue or do I have to use something else?
BTW, I am Gert, 65 years old and starting modelling again after a 35 year lapse. I used to scratchbuild locos and coaches in H0 with sheet styrene on second hand chassis, but 009 is quite a lot more fiddly.... ;)

Thanks for the help!

[Ed de la Rie]

Welkom Gert,

I can not assist you in this, just joined in myself. But there are plenty of folk that will jump in to aid.
See you in Valkenburg/Leiden in August.

[cnw6847]

Welcome both to the society.

Have you got the height gauge for the couplings?
Either Greenwich or my personal favourite the RT Models one. https://www.rtmodels.co.uk/rt_models_018.htm

I usually glue a strip of lead flashing to the underside of the wagon for extra weight then file a grove in the end of the end beam for the coupling to pass through then glue the tail bit to the lead or a piece of plastic packing making it up to the right height.

Super glue or 5 minute epoxy will be fine.

[engerth399]

Welcome to the Society and back to modelliing.  I hope you will both find the society and a return to modelling very rewarding.

[Frank]

Similar to Richard's method, I usually glue a piece of lead strip (sold for simulating leaded light windows) to the underside of the wagon body, and separately I build up a platform just behind the buffer beam with styrene sheet, making it level with the bottom of the buffer beam, and the glue the coupling (unbent) on to this.  I use impact adhesive to glue it.  Height can be adjusted slightly by bending the coupling up or down.

Getting the height right, or at least consistent from wagon to wagon, is critical.  You can use a gauge or I use a short piece of rail glued to a wooden block with a woodscrew fixed upright at the end of the rail.  Screwing the screw up and down allows the height to be adjusted then I set all the couplings to that height.

Frank

[JulienW]

Another recommendation for the RT Models coupling height gauge from me.

As to actually fitting the coupling to the wagon from memory the couplings need to be fitted about 1/2 way up the buffer beams on the 009 Soceity freelance 4-wheel wagons.

Whilst it may be a bit awkward to do on a built wagon I would cut a slot in the buffer beam. This will probably be easier to do with the axles removed from the bearings as you could then use a saw, certainly to make the vertical cuts and if using a jeweller's piercing saw with a fine (6/0) blade it should be possible to 'turn the corner' to link the 2 vertical cuts.  Otherwise chopping the area out with a scalpel / modelling knife also works.

I have a feeling that there will still be a step between the bottom of the coupling cut out and the floor. You could 'crank' the coupling, but the metal is relatively thick and not so easy to bend - and you'll only get 'one shot' at it. This being the case it may be easier to add packing - styrene sheet offcuts will do the job and can be fixed with whatever you used to build the wagon, but just make sure you leave space for the wheel sets to go back in.

Once you are in a position to fix the couplings (either packing to create a flat platform of bending to fit the floor / buffer beam step) I would scrape off any coating on the coupling (earlier Greenwich couplings have a black coating whereas later ones are plain brass) so any adhesive used is sticking to the brass, not the coating.  It may also be useful to 'key' the brass surface - few scratches with a needle, knife blade tip or whatever comes to hand - and do the same to the plastic you'll be sticking too.  For the sticking either 2-part epoxy or cyanoacrylate ('superglue') will do the job, with the latter having the advantage of a rappid setting time (so you don't have to hold it in place for ages), but the danger of sticking yourself to the work all to easily (been there, done that!).

As a final coupling job I would then drill through the etched holes in the coupling's tail and into the wagon floor,then insert short lengths of wire to match, dipping the wire into some superglue before pushing it into the holes.  This may be a bit 'belt & braces' but many adhesives, including superglue, are very good at resisting being pulled apart across the joint but less good if the force is along the joint, as is the case with the coupling forces and the wire reincorces the joint. I also use 2 wires so that should the coupling come adrift it cant pivot out of alignment and as an added precaution rather than cutting any wire protruding underneath off flush I'll bend it over so that should the coupling come loose it can't drop off.

Once the couplings are fixed adding a small amount of weight will help - this can be lead strip from various sources (if there isn't any roofing work going on locally to scrounge an off-cut of flashing try shops selling aquarium fish as thin lead strips are used to anchor plants in fishtanks), lead or steel shot (the latter sold as 'liquid gravity') or anything with a high density - tungsten 'putty' sold in fishing tackle shops, gold or depleted uranium are the more 'exotic' materials!

Hope that helps,
Julien Webb

[Gert Visser]

Dear Richard, Engerth, Frank and Julien,
Thanks for your help. I hadn't thought abt the lead, thats a good one because the society kits are very light.
I have the gauge and will use it to set the uniform height with all my rolling stock.
The tip of extra fastening the couplings with some wire ends I will use also.
Great forum indeed!! With all the help its a veritable WIKI009!!

Gert

[Gert Visser]

Ed dank voor het welkom.
I will try to visit the Valkenburg smalspoor event and meet the dutch gang!!

Gert

[Ed de la Rie]

See you there,

BTW ( on that other forum ) https://ngrm-online.com/index.php?/forums/topic/23008-theredones-random-ramblings/page/34/ there is a quite complete explanation of the Greenwich. I have to order a pack in a few weeks, along with some carts.

[Gert Visser]

Thanks for the link Ed.
BTW, what is the KIJL line???

[Ed de la Rie]

The ' Keil lijn ' is the Dutchification of the Kyle of Lochash to Inverness line.
My private pun is it confuses the Anglofiles, but the way we Dutch say it, it is exactly the same.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kyle_of_Lochalsh_line
https://www.scotrail.co.uk/scotland-by-rail/great-scenic-rail-journeys/kyle-line-lochalsh-inverness
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PtB_ESG2dwc

Plan is 009 part of the scenery, and make a caricature ( read downsized ) of this line.
https://www.shapeways.com/product/JEWMZPR3F/oo9-mini-deltic?optionId=139442727&li=shops as an idea on the rolling stock, Dave has a couple of other choices for which I am saving up.

Grtz Ed

[Stephen Rainsbury]

All of the above  :)

I have a short length of track (approx 50cm) glued to a piece of wood which I use for setting up wagons and rolling stock.

At one end I have block of wood packed up to exactly the right height for a Peco wagon coupling to just slide over. This one I use to adjust the height of Greenwich couplings.

At the other end I have another block with a Greenwich coupling glued on it so I check that it will work.

Once this is done I lift one end up by the height of another block to make sure that the wagon can move easily. If not I can try to free up the bearings, or as mentioned above add weight. I also use "window lead" but for closed wagons I tend to pour in some PVA glue and add sand. It is cheaper, not visible, and can't come off, but it is more difficult to adjust the weight and the centre of gravity is going to be a bit higher.   

[Gert Visser]

Hi Stephen,
that is a nice tip! Thanks
Hello Ed,
I know that line. I have a nice book on it in my possession: "The Skye Railway" by John Thomas, David&Charles 1977
From your track plan I take it you are modelling Kyle of Lochalsh in late LMS /BR days?? Because in early LMS days the track plan was more complex, with a lot of sidings and even wagon turntables.
If you are interested I can make a scan for you.

[Ed de la Rie]

Hi Gert,

Got the book(s) and a few more are on the order-list. So thanks for the offer, but I got it.
Yes, the trackplan was much larger, including a small depot. The plan is not prototypical, but indeed late LMS/BR, mainly diesel.

The misses and I spend a week in the signalbox couple of years back. Hope to be back in Skye next year, and add a visit to Harris & Lewis as well.

[Hugh Norwood]

Another recommendation for the RT Models coupling height gauge from me.

i really must see about getting one of these... I have the etched brass Greenwich one, but I find it a bit tricky to use - you really need three hands....