Replacing springs for Peco points

[Michael Hammond]

Does anyone have experience of replacing the springs in Peco points as I have a number of points which have been unused for a number of years and the frog is only electrified in one direction.

[Hugh Norwood]

I don't think that is necessarily a spring problem; more likely to be dust or some such on the side of the rails preventing electrical contact.

[Michael Hammond]

many thanks for your suggestion, I will try cleaning the side s of the rails

[andy1878]

I always use supplementary frog switching, I find the problem often. Others will be along to say they don't and rely on point blade contact.

[Hobby]

Brian will be along soon to agree with you, Andy! With me it depends on where it is, out front I always use a polarity switch, in the fiddle yard I am not so fussy!

[Julian Evison]

I am one of those who rely on blade contact and have no regrets!

Mike, I suggest you check a few things if you have a meter. The first thing is to check whether the blades are live when set in their respective directions. If they are not then cleaning the space between the blade and the rail is your first step. I also put a little bit of graphite in there using a 6B or similar soft pencil (not recommended for DCC users). You need to make sure the blade contacts the stock rail, so have a vey close look at it and improve if necessary.

If the blades are live and the frog isn't, then the problem is at the joint between the blade and the frog. Depending on the type and age of the point this will either be a pivot or, simply a fishplate. Again a bit of cleaning of this area can help, particularly if it is the fishplate type.

Julian

[Graeme Dunbar]

Where and how layout is located or stored has an effect, I'm sure. I did experience some contact issues with Peco N-gauge Setrack points but the layout (electronics demo board) did spend most of its time on its end being stored.

To clean between the point blades and stock rail I use a scrap of ordinary printer paper, press the point blade gently closed and pull the paper through, parallel to the track. Sometimes the 'grot' can be seen deposited on the paper. Rubbing a soft graphite pencil on the paper and repeating the pull-though appears to put a very thin layer onto the rail faces.

[Hobby]

Thanks for that, Julian and Graeme, I hadn't heard of the graphite trick between the blade and stock rails before, will use that in future!

[Michael Hammond]

Thank you all for your suggestions, now I know where to look and what to try to improve contact between the rails.

[B.Meldon]

I do agree with the above. The blade to fixed rail electrical switching is unreliable.
I always fit frog polrity switches to every point.

Please be aware that the use of graphite on rails can impact on the haulage capabilities of the locos.
Basicaly it can make the driving wheels slip. It will get on every wheel and in turn on every section of track
Because of this as I have grades on my layouts I tend to avoid using any graphite.

[Tom Haythornthwaite]

I also put a little bit of graphite in there using a 6B or similar soft pencil (not recommended for DCC users). You need to make sure the blade contacts the stock rail, so have a vey close look at it and improve if necessary.

Why not, Julian?

[Dave Cooper]

You say the points have been unused for some time. Whenever I've experienced this, I've suspected a little bit of corrosion has set in (mine's stored in a garage - mainly dry, but, you never know !)...

I usually get a small piece of very fine emery paper and clean the contacts as above for the paper method. I then follow this up with some IPA /track cleaning fluid and that usually does the trick.

BTW : What's a "Socmember" ? Michael ? (nothing to do with the football I suspect).

Regards,
Dave

[B.Meldon]

You say the points have been unused for some time. Whenever I've experienced this, I've suspected a little bit of corrosion has set in (mine's stored in a garage - mainly dry, but, you never know !)...

Dave

Nickle silver does not corrode as such. It does however tarnish after a while and this can indeed affect the electrical switching in the point. However, the speed and level of tarnish is not affected that much by additional by dampness in the air, you will find it happens over time even when a layout is in a worm dry home.

[JulienW]

I also put a little bit of graphite in there using a 6B or similar soft pencil (not recommended for DCC users). You need to make sure the blade contacts the stock rail, so have a vey close look at it and improve if necessary.

Why not, Julian?

With a standard Peco point on the 'open' side the point blade and stock rail are at opposite polarities. Anything that might allow current to pass from one rail to the other,  like a wide wheel or poorly set back to back (i.e. the wheel is touching both rails) is not a good idea for an analogue system but a DCC system is much more sensitive to these momentary shorts and will shut itself down.

Graphite conducts electricity and with repeated applications its quite likely that a build up between the point blade & stock rail will occur.   Whilst it may not be enough to affect an analogue controller one may end up with enough graphite on the surface of the sleepers to will give a DCC system a bit of a headache, especially if sparking / arcing and heating occurs this may be enough to melt the plastic parts of the point.

[andy1878]

A DCC system should shut down long before there is a risk of melting sleepers.
The supply wiring needs to be able to carry at least the max output current of the controller. If it doesn't allow the tripping current to flow a continuous current could flow, this could do serious damage.