Stowford (Was Hello, Yet un-named layout}

[Diane Tape]

A quick intro :- I am just starting out in the 009 world, I currently model in n both UK and US, this is what I am thinking of building, it is 6ftX1ft or 1800mmX300mm and will be DCC with servo points. I am thinking that this could be a extension of the L&B to service Exmoor Zoo at South Stowford.

[clayliner]

Hi, Diane - a warm welcome to the forum. Hopefully you will find us friendly and the forum a useful resource as you get started in 009.

Please keep us informed of progress, especially with pictures!

David.

P.S.  Don't forget the Society's online 'shop' for bargains in all departments - there are usually some Peco L&B items in stock if that's what you're particularly after (though probably not zoo animals...).

[Diane Tape]

I succumbed to temptation and bought a Heljan L&B Manning-Wardle 2-6-2 tank loco my first 009 purchase.https://youtu.be/LhMCbvaC-k8

[James S]

Hello Diane, you are on a similar journey to me. Looking forward to seeing your progress. Thanks for the video, nice little loco. I note the insulation board, are you planning on using that for your layout base?

[Diane Tape]

I note the insulation board, are you planning on using that for your layout base?

No it is left over from a n gauge experiment with a foam baseboard I did not get on well with it so I will be using Ply and timber for my base boards 6mm ply top with 70mm x 18 mm frame.

[Diane Tape]

With lockdown coming on us again, I will be progressing Stowford, this is my back story for the layout.

With the L&B being restored a consortium of the L&B, Exmoor Zoo and the Stowford Devon Cider Co Ltd (no relation to the brand with a similar name from Wales)decided a new link to the mainline to service the zoo and cider press would be a good plan. It would mean Rail travellers on the national network could access the zoo directly from Barnstaple, via Blackmoor station on the original L&B line. As a sister company to the main L&B the Stowford line will run L&B stock and a assortment of locos and stock borrowed from other narrow gauge lines. So in my Covid secure world 2020 is the start of what I hope to be a successful union of the L&B and Exmoor Zoo/Stowford Cider with the intent of at least having some movements on the new line by Christmas.

I have had a rethink and will start this build as a analogue layout with wire in tube style point control, with the option to go to DCC later if more dcc ready locos become available.

[Diane Tape]

up Date:- I have just put in and paid for order for the makings to build Stowford, Tomorrow A visit to B&Q to get the makings for the base board then I am all set for Lock down.

[Diane Tape]

 I have the materials for the baseboards on hand and have just had a email from Dundas Models saying the rest should be here special delivery tomorrow.

[JulienW]

Progress indeed Diane. :)

For the wire in tube point control I've found it useful to use slide switches at the opposite end of the actuator wire from the point's tie bar, linking the wire to the switch by drilling a suitable sized hole through the switch toggle for the wire to go through.

The 'Rolls Royce' version has the hole drilled along the same axis as the wire's movement with collars (short lengths of tube) soldered to the wire to allow the wire to slide slightly to account for the difference between the larger throw of the switch and the smaller throw of the point tie bar.

The alternative 'bodge that seems to work' is to offset the run of the wire and the axis of the switch, drill the hole through the toggle at right angles to the switchaxis and put a right angle bend in the end of the actuator wire (after it emerges from the tube) and allow the flex in the wire to take up the differences in the throws. That can be a bit 'hit and miss' though, as if there is too much flexing (too much wire between the bend and the switch) then the switch can be thrown without the point changing.

A final alternative would be to add Omega loops to the actuator wire, either by carefully bending the wire to shape or adding pre-made brass ones to the run, to take up the 'slack'.

Another advantage of using switches in this way is that the electrical part of the switch can be used to change the polarity of the frog (common crossing) on the point. If using single pole double throw switches the frog at the center of the point is wired to the middle pole of the switch and feed wires run from the outside fixed rails of the point (stock rails) to the outer poles of the switch.  There is probably a proper wiring diagram somewhere, either on here or elsewhere on the interweb, that will probably be more helpful then my description, but the idea is that the wires between the point and the switch duplicate the circuits made by the rails (which the standard point uses to get power to the frog) with the advantage of the sliding / self cleaning contacts in the switch over the 'press on' contact between point blades and stock rails which is notorius for getting mucky and not passing the current too well. This is a bit of a problem for analogue operation, but may be more so for DCC where the signals between the chip and the base station may get lost trying to get through a layer of dirt.

Another thought about DCC and points is that with most of the commercial offerings both of the point blades have the same polarity as the stock rail they are touching (so this changes along with the frog). Whilst this is usually OK is does mean that on the 'open' side of the point there is a small gap with rails at opposite polarity and the wheel flange needs to go through this gap. If there is an issue with the wheelset (the back to back measurement is a bit smaller than  is should be) the wheel can bridge the gap between the rails and cause a momentary short. Again, most analogue would not pick this up but on a DCC system this is enough to cause a shutdown. Whilst the points can be modified so that the point blades stay with the same polarity as their adjacent stock rails its a bit of a faff the easier way around the issue is to make sure that your back to back measurement is correct (7.4 mm from memory but I'm happy to be corrected on that).

Hope that helps,
Julien Webb

[Hobby]

To add to Julien's post, I use the slide switch method as well, solves any wiring issues and Omega loops (proper ones work better than home made!). But I don't use wire in tube. In stead I do straight runs to the baseboard edge and use bullhead rail (flat bottom works as well!) in a groove cut into the baseboard surface or lay the track on cork underlay and cut a slot in that. Much less hassle than all the other methods. Just slide some thin card under the track before ballasting and after ballasting work the switch every so often to make sure it's free before the glue sets!

[B.Meldon]

I have also used the same system as Blair on one layout. Slide switches for the frog polarity working 00 rail  laid on its side in groves in the baseboard for congtrol rods.
I went one stage further and managed to get slide switches that had almost exactly the same amount of movement as the point blades, so no need for the omega loops.
I have found this to be very reliable indeed.

[Diane Tape]

I have had a busy day at the club I have built the 3 baseboards for Stowford, and surprisingly for me they are flat and square and fit together properly. I have a reputation as a wood butcher but this time things seem to have worked out, any way thanks to Dundas Models I have all I need to make a good start on the build, Lock Down here we come.

[Robin Webster]

Wow! A grand start, and fast.

Robin.

[Diane Tape]

When you are retired and have a fully equipped club room to use it is surprising what you can achieve in 8 hours. ;) Unfortunately due to lockdown the club will be out of bounds for the next month :(.

[Julian Evison]

Wow! A grand start, and fast.

Robin.

My feelings exactly. I hope you will continue to show progress here as you go along and also make it in to an article for the News.  Seeing something get all the way from bits of wood to a finished layout will make it that much easier for others to have a go!

Julian