Wanted : Small affordable diesel loco

[Dave Cooper]

Needed for my growing (slightly) diorama /layout, a small diesel loco for hauling short wagon loads. Must be able to cope with a moderate incline.

Sorry, I'm not very knowledgeable about the different types /makes, but, I think a 'quarry' style machine may suit (preferably with a cab).

Please show a photo and give a price including UK postage. I can do some simple body renovation /repairs if necessary eg missing buffers, couplings etc. Ideally, I'd like to buy something in March...
Regards,
Dave

[Stefan Krebs]

There is currently a very nice engine going (running out in 5days) in the bay of 2nd hand; title:
Lilliput OO9 Shunter DCC Fitted And With Micro Trains Couplings

If you want to Anglicise the body I'll have the German one.   ;D

Good luck
waldschrat

[Hobby]

Dave, have a word with the Society's Secondhand Sales team about a Minitrains loco. They are small and powerful enough and would probably suit a small diorama. Here's a link to the Minitrains website, take a look and if you see one you like phone or email Brian and ask if they have one!

http://www.minitrains.eu/mt-diesel.html

[Dave Cooper]

Thanks both - I'll take a look. I'm sure there's something suitable out there. 

[Dave Cooper]

L - I've put a low(ish) bid in for the Lilliput. In the unlikely event of me getting it, would I be able to run it with a simple DC resistance controller, or, would I need to source a DCC controller unit as well ?

Sorry for such basic questions, but, is a second-hand DCC controller advisable in the case of one being needed ?

[Graeme Dunbar]

Have you seen the most recent 009 Society sales list? There are a few different small diesels there. I don't know if a "link to a link" will work, but here goes:
https://about.us11.list-manage.com/track/click?u=69f168d6fdbc74d2232a04f0b&id=7718502d03&e=0bf6eab0ea

There are a couple of Minitrains Gmeinder locos on the list, i.e.
http://www.minitrains.eu/mt-diesel.html
and a very inexpensive A1 freelance diesel on a Kato tram chassis (it doesn't say which variant).
https://dundasmodels.co.uk/webstore/index.php/hikashop-menu-for-module-108/category/500-a1-models-loco-kits

The member sales are sale or return so you will only be out of pocket to the cost of the postage. Even if you change your mind after some time you know you can pass the model on again through member sales and as the pricing is very fair and equitable you are unlikely to loose out.

Buying off eBay from a private sale or auction is a bit of a gamble. You may get a bargain and sell on at a profit if the model does not suit you - or it could go the other way. I've bid for things I was familiar with and thought I was confident about from the photos and description only to be disappointed though not exactly "ripped off" so as to make it worth raising a grievance.

[Stefan Krebs]

Most engines fitted with a DCC chip will run on an analogue controller. 'DCC ready' means the chip is not fitted, i.e. the engine runs on analogues only. It will be fitted with a socket for a chip, but have a plug instead to 'shorten' the socket and allow analogue running.
Changing the couplers shouldn't be a problem either.

Good luck
Waldschrat

[Dave Cooper]

Hi Graeme - thanks, the links worked fine. It's very useful having images to go with the descriptions !

Members Sales looks like a good source and you make a good point about risks on eBay, although, I think I've been lucky so far...(just one damaged item that was quickly refunded).

I'll contact Brian and see what's still available from the list.

Thanks to everyone else also for the continued education !
Dave

[Dave Cooper]

Hi Folks - a quick update on the loco front :-

The Lilliput shunter sold on Ebay for

[Dave Cooper]

The A1 Models freelance diesel arrived today and was tested on the layout. It's based on a Kato chassis.

I was surprised at the tiny wheels (compared with the Farish 08 chassis) that found every 'bump' and dirty bit of track on the layout. Perhaps all the 009 'tram' chassis are like this ? Going up the grade without the body on was not to its liking !

Under the cab roof and engine bonnet are quite large weights (a mix of washers and half nuts). These make all the difference to traction on the grade (about 1 in 53 for me)....

The body is just a 'gravity fit' at present - I was wondering if there was a good way of securing it to the Kato chassis that will still permit future maintenance ? Perhaps a tiny blob of cyano at each of the body corners ? I can't really see any potential screw holding points on the chassis /body interface just now. Perhaps other members have a good solution that I haven't spotted.

Thanks for any help,
Dave

[Graeme Dunbar]

Yes, all Kato tram chassis are the same as far as I know, as are similar ones - Bandai Shorty and so on. That is part of the "charm" I guess. And yes they are very light and a little weight helps.

The Farish chassis is perhaps more the odd one out. The Bachmann N scale Plymouth diesel used under some other A1 kits and the similar looking Roco 009/HOe diesel have similarly sized wheels.

Some people use Blutak to fix the body on! Other possibilities are to glue a "tray" or |___| shaped bracket/fingers, perhaps made out of scraps of plasticard, to the chassis so the lips of the tray or fingers are a gentle friction fit inside the body. Alternatively add plasticard to the inside of the body to fit the chassis more snugly or mimic the way the Kato shorty bodies attach to their chassis.

Tiny super-magnets are another possibility. If they are too close to the motor or magnetically operated couplings if you have them, it could cause issues, but the "range" is tiny, especially when the field is "trapped" keeper plate-like by the tiny piece of iron (a small nut or piece of small nail or panel pin perhaps) they attract to.

[Dave Cooper]

Thanks for the ideas Graeme - I'll have a closer look at the body /chassis fit and see what can be done.

Will give an update when I've found a solution !
Dave 

[Alan Feldon]

When I build anything on the Kato chassis I start with a footplate with a shape cut out for the motor . This then becomes part of the body , so it is easy to drill up through the chassis into the footplate and secure with a small screw.

[Dave Cooper]

Hi Alan - I think I get the general idea. I was originally thinking of two small 'blocks' epoxied to the front and rear of the chassis and with the body secured with small (horizontal) self-tappers.

However, your way sounds simpler, except in my case, I think I would have to drill up through the coupling pocket(s) - not sure about clearances there...I'll have to get the vernier calipers out !
Dave   

[Graeme Dunbar]

A number of the  A1 models are "boxes" which sit over the chassis and don't have a footplate to speak of. At least one makes use of the lower part of the donor chassis' original body and the A1 body sits on that.

My approach is the "bodger's method" of making just enough of an insert or footplate as described by Alan to wedge into the "box" or sticking strips of plasticard to pad out the inside of the brass shell so it sits on the chassis and is held by friction.