Attaching Plastic sheet to Brass

[Mike Broom]

Being new to this idea of building nearly everything I have some questions.
I have purchased the 2 Worsley Works Baguley Drewry kits after reading Roger Christian,s articles. Initially when I saw the size I almost deserted to 7n16.5mm brigade. However, as I have no idea how to make 7mm scale buildings sense prevailed and I continued with my original plan to have a 009 railway empire.

Just a note to 009 News editor and also 009 suppliers: Please include an indication of size in the advertisements and articles if at all possible.

Off my soapbox. All of this railway empire is to be radio controlled hence the years of delay before starting this project. Now I have started to build the engines most of which, if not all will be diesels, I find that it will be possible to fit receiver, Li-po etc into these kits but I may have to modify slightly. Which is what the heading is about: I will use the chassis and cab from Worsly kit but build new bonnets slightly larger from Plastic sheet to allow Li-po to fit but "what is the best way to fix Plastic to Brass". Superglue, epoxy etc. Yes it may have to be removed to replace battery in the future so maybe small bolts might be a better solution.

Sorry this was a long winded request but the more information the better you may understand what I am trying to achieve. Mike.

[Frank]

Hi Mike,

Welcome to the world of 009 and radio control, and to the Forum.

I have not tried the Worsley Works kits you mention but have built both the Worsley Works Wasp and the Narrow Planet Baguley Drewrey kits, both of which have gone together well, and both have radio control fitted.

I have tried both Superglue and Epoxy for sticking plastic to brass.  Both will work but I have tended to settle on Epoxy where the joint will have to survive handling or other stresses eg I use it for switches and plugs for the radio control circuits.  

Frank

[Brian Mosby]

ruff up the brass before gluing the same for the plastic
as to the glue i would use super glue

[Hobby]

I'm the same as Frank, I've used both with no issues.

[rod335]

I always use Superglue for this, partly because I have never been able to use epoxy properly, it doesn't like me and I don't like it, but also because superglue is NOT so permanent, it is perfectly possible to separate the items at a later date if you need/want to.

Rod

[Mike Broom]

Thanks for responses so far. I fully concur about Superglue not being permanent so probably the way to go.
I know this a bit off topic, but as I am using the Farish 08 chassis the gearbox takes up most of the room in the bonnet. To fit the Li-po I have purchased from measuring everything I will need to raise bonnet 5mm but I will only raise the cab 3mm just enough for the forward cab windows to be clear. This should not be too difficult. It is widening the bonnet by 2mm which has me stumped.
I was trying to use the brass etchings as to build a new bonnet from plastic sheet I will lose the simulated louvres.
Any ideas on how to get around this? Mike.

[Frank]

The Narrow Planet RNAD has a 3D printed body with etched panels (louvres etc.) mounted on it.   Maybe you could do something similar, fabricate a body from styrene sheet with a skeleton side frame and hang the etched panels on this.   You might even manage to get the extra width just by moving the etches out by the required amount, if you can arrange the "windows" in the framework where the battery will be.

http://i1331.photobucket.com/albums/w582/009photoman/NP%20RNAD%20build/IMG_04762_zpsdf8cf1d5.jpg


Frank

[Krizzy]

Hi guys,
             just a quick aside on this one. The size difference of the Baguley etched brass kit and Franks 3D Narrow Planet diesel is not a great deal. Having seen Frank demonstrate his loco it should not be too difficult to do the same with the W WKS Baguley kits. The main difference is which chassis to use. The Kato is low slung and so offers more space above. The Farish 08 motor and gearbox fills the bonnet but not completely with space left in the cab.

Roger

[rod335]

What I think you are referring to as the gearbox is actually just a bracket holding the front of the motor down. If you undo the screw holding it onit will come off and can be substantially reduced in height and still perform it's function. But you do still need this part to keep the gears in mesh.

Rod

[Mike Broom]

I have ordered 2 Kato 104 chassis so apart from the Baguleys being  0-4-0 now it might give me the room I need. I still think I will need to widen the bonnet as the Li-po seem to be same width and thickness it is just the length which increases as the mah goes up.
I only need 2 mm extra so I might cut the bonnet in half and add a section. I think I should be capable of achieving that.
I also take note of being able to reduce the height of the Farish chassis. I'm glad I am retired as I would never have had time for all this when I worked. Mike.

[Frank]

Mike,

The Hyperion 130mAh lipo for e-Flite etc here

http://www.micronradiocontrol.co.uk/lipo_hyperion.html

will fit in the NP RNAD diesel hood, on top of the Kato chassis, with the radio board on top.   The lipo is the same width as the chassis.   Don't know about the Worsley Works body but worth looking at.  The lipo will run the Kato chassis for a couple of hours.

Frank