• Welcome to 009 Society Members Forum.

Newbie to 009 first loco kit builds

Started by PUASHP, January 01, 2013, 22:33

Previous topic - Next topic

PUASHP

Dear All,

This is my first post in the forum since joining the 009 society a few weeks back.

I currently do not have a 009 layout but I have built a couple of locos to get me started.

Firstly a Peco James kit on a Farish Pannier chassis I had from a few years back.  The kit went together well (low melt soldered) and I added a few small details, handrails etc before painting and lining by hand.  I have also weathered the model although after looking at the photos I might do something with the rust around the chimney.  I also have a Peco Jeanette in build, also on a farish Pannier chassis.  I know inside cylindered locos are not normal for narrow gauge locos so I may change the chassis in the future but I wanted soemthing easy to get me goining and they do run well.

Secondly an A1 Models Kerr Stuart etched brass kit.  A nice easy build with a few added details and a driver of course.

Hopefully the photos will come out OK.

Your feedback is welcome, along with any advice on which locos may be suitable to go with the Peco engines, similar size etc for a small light railway in the 1930's/40's.

regards

Paul

PUASHP


tedp

Wow - that's some serious loco building, Paul. They look excellent!
Ted Polet

Craigcorrie & Dunalistair Railway
Nixnie - a minimum size 009 layout

MickT

Welcome to the forum Paul and to the 009 Society. You may be new to 009 but from looking at the standard of your modelling you certainly do not appear to be new to modelling. Congratulations on your excellent paint jobs.

Regarding your query, there are a number of small 009 loco kits that will complement James and Jeanette from the Chivers range (Now marketted as Five79) obtainable from Parkside Dundas (don't forget you can now qualify for an 009 Society members discount!). The challenge will be in sourcing suitable chassis as there are a number of very good little locos, such as a quarry Peckett and Bagnall that were designed for the Ibertren 0-4-0 which is nowadays only obtainable for a lot more money than they are actually worth. They can be made to fit the superior Fleischmann Piccolo 0-4-0 chassis which is slightly larger, but whether you want to hack kits about will depend upon your modelling confidence and experience. The RTR Roco 0-6-0T will be compatible with James and Jeanette in size terms and can also be fairly simply "anglicised" if you want to. Both this and the Egger no.5 (Blue) or Western (green) 0-4-0T are also usually quite common at affordable prices in Society sales. Then of course there is the good old Gem Varikit, also common secondhand. Older ones were made to fit the Arnold or Minitrix 0-6-0 chassis, not sure about the recommended chassis for the new ones (see the Varikit thread on this forum). Another source of locos that will go with James & Jeanette for size are the new design Minitrains Baldwin 0-4-0ST (Mixed reviews on this one) and "Koppel" 0-4-0T which is a vastly improved version of the old Egger No.2 (costs around

tedp

#4
To add to Mick's reply I would like to say the Minitrains Baldwin won't fit, as it has a big chassis block. I would recommend the Fleischmann 0-4-0 which I fitted to a Jeanette kit without any problem:

Ted Polet

Craigcorrie & Dunalistair Railway
Nixnie - a minimum size 009 layout

ECMT

That's a nicely built & painted/weathered couple of locos Paul - nice to see someone into soldering metal kits and not just glueing them. I purchased a job lot of Egger items and amongst the mix was a Peco Jeanette that was put together with Araldite - not a bad job but not as good as low melt solder.

Your A1 Kerr Stuart looks great - a shame I purchased a Meridian kit before the A1 kit came out otherwise I would have gone for one of these.
What's next on the build list besides the Peco Jeanette ?

Len

B.Meldon

Yes as others have said nice work Paul.

As has been mentioned these days the availability of chassis can be a problem. In my opinion it is best to get the chassis first, or at the same time as the kit, or you will be stuck with a kit without a chassis.

The James and Janette kits are somewhat under scale for 00. They were at one time marketed by Peco as H0 scale but from what I was once told they were actually originally designed as 3mm scale TTn3 locos!

I would not recommend purchasing any of the original 1960
Brian Meldon

PUASHP

Dear All,

Thanks for positive comments.  It's amazing how a closeup photo brings out all the bits you could have done better.

My previous experience has been in 00 gauge where I have built a few white metal and etched brass kits, all soldered, so at least I have a basic idea what to do.  I have to say since buying a temperature controlled iron and an instructional video it is much better than glueing kits.

I do actually have a Golden Arrow kit for a Southwold Sharpie ready to build which hopefully won't look too out of place next to the Peco engines.  This is designed for a modified Farish Prairie chassis which I have left over from my brief foray into N gauge many years ago.  I also quite fancy an armoured Simplex loco to go with the Kerr Stuart.

Regarding the issue of a suitable chassis, has anyone any experience of those from N Drive Productions?

Thanks again for your help and support.

Paul


petersmith1942

Ndrive chassis are excellent-if you can get one.They are out of production for the timebeing due to the indisposition of the proprietor. I have had one on order for 15 months. Its a shame as I have a few projects where I need this type of chassis
Peter Smith

B.Meldon

The N-drive chassis are indeed very good. They do however have a couple of things that you will need to know.
Firstly they are not direct replacements for the Ibertren or Bachmann 0-4-0
Brian Meldon

PUASHP

Following a time spent searching the web for inspiration I have decided an inside cylindered narrow gauge loco would just not be right so I have decided to convert both James and Jeanette to outside cylinders using parts from RT models (outside cylinders and single slide bars).  Not sure how easy this will be as space is a little tight ahead of the front drivers but I have ordered the parts and I will post the results. My main concern is how to get the centre crankpin out without damaging the drivers (advice here is well appreciated).

Rolling stock (mainly Parkside Dundas) is coming along well, I have also ordered an amoured simplex kit (Meridian Models).  Finally, I have plans for a first layout which more of in due course.

Regards

Paul


JulienW

A quick note of caution Paul - the RT Models cylinder set is designed to fit the new style Farish 08 that has the outside frames, and uses a replacement cast resin kepper plate that includes a 'stretcher' to fit the cylinders on to.  I don't think the RT models kepper plate will fit the old style inside frame 08 chassis (same as the J94 saddle tank chassis), but it should be possible to use the cylinder castings and conecting rod from RT Models, either with the  stretcher cut from the RT resin keeper plate or something cobbled together with styrene to mount the cylinders on.
Julien Webb - 1720

PUASHP

Cobbled together with styrene or brass offcuts is the plan depending on how the cylinders sit on the loco.  A bit of kit bashing is always good fun.

Paul


JulienW

Julien Webb - 1720

PUASHP

Dear All,

Just completed modification to the Farish 57xx chassis fitting outside cylinders.  I have now fitted the chassis to the Peco Jeanette (see photo).

Key steps were as follows using RT models parts:

Strip down chassis and remove wheels.
Cut chassis block to give space for cylinders (I used a mini cutting disc)
Drill out crankpin on centre driver and remake from 1.5mm brass rod.  Fix with sperglue.
File down cylinder castings to fit chassis/body and fix with epoxy resin glue.
Fit connecting rod with 1 mm spacer between it and the coupling rod.  The assembly is held on by a small soldered washer on the outside.
Remake RH rod from scratch after I lost it somewhere on the floor!
Make crosshead assembly as  per kit instructions (this was the hardest part of the conversion) and solder up to pin.
Fit slide bar assembly, suitably cut down in size to fit making sure there was sufficient clearance over the front drivers.
Fit cylinder cover and test (shock horror it ran first time)

All that remains now is some detailing on the body and painting.  I'm sure the second chassis conversion for  the Peco James will be easier.

Paul