Good afternoon,
After some 20 years of membership of the society I have taken the plunge and bought a loco - Chris Ward's Growler - to make for myself.
Being a complete novice to loco building (but I'm OK at scratch building buildings) I was wondering if there was any advice out there on dealing with this kit.
Specifically, I don't understand how to get a smooth surface finish - burnishing has been mentioned but not sure what this means and whether the surface can also be sanded
I've seen this month's article in the 009 News which was helpful but any further information would be appreciated
Thanks
Bob Berry
Use something round and semi-hard, like a piece of rounded wood. I used a wooden stick from an ice cream, rounded completely with sandpaper. Just polish the model with that.
A "cuticle stick" is one possibility:
http://www.boots.com/en/Boots-Essentials-Manicure-Sticks_1129281/ (http://www.boots.com/en/Boots-Essentials-Manicure-Sticks_1129281/)
Thanks for both suggestions
Currently I have a metal round ended embossing tool that I stole out of my wife's crafting stuff.
Not a good idea as (a) I think it might be too hard and (b) she might find out who took it !
I will follow up on both ideas
Bob
I use wooden cocktail sticks, a small box full cost 35p from Home Bargins, also you will have to accept that a mirror smooth finish is almost impossible to obtain, but after final painting the slight striations are barely visible at normal viewing distance,
Take care when burnishing, never hold the model in the same place for more than a few minutes, this is because the resin used is heat sensitive, and even body heat from your fingers can distort the model if held too tightly in the same position for too long.
After burnishing scrub away dust using an old toothbrush and tepid water ( not hot! see above ). Dry thoroughly and respray with primer. Leave to dry for a couple of days.
I do strongly recommend that you use acryllic paints for your paint scheme. I did use Humbrol enamel paint on one of my Chris Ward locos, but again there appeared to be some reaction between the resin and the enamel paint despite the primer barrier, and drying time incteased from the usual 6 hours to 72 hours!
At the moment, I am trying am alternative method of dealing with the striations on a Shapeways 3D diesel body from teebee models. I am experimenting with applying Tipp-Ex ( the one with the wedge shaped foam applicator). I apply the Tipp-Ex to a section of the model, allow to dry, and then rub down with a sanding stick. Repeat if necessary, after working progressively round the whole body, I have again resprayed with primer, so far this appears to be working well.
Quote from: garrywhiting on November 02, 2012, 06:25
I do strongly recommend that you use acryllic paints for your paint scheme. I did use Humbrol enamel paint on one of my Chris Ward locos, but again there appeared to be some reaction between the resin and the enamel paint despite the primer barrier, and drying time incteased from the usual 6 hours to 72 hours!
I have had no problems using Humbrol enamels on my two Chris Ward locos. I do thin the paint down a lot with "white spirit" - you do need lots of coats.
On the topic of burnishing, I have used a pin with a largish head, held in a pin vice, and the plain end of a matchstick
Garry/Hugh,
Thanks for the tips - all very gratefully received.
I think I am looking to reduce the ridges as far as possible - I've just used a cocktail stick which seems to take them down a little but will also try a matchstick now.
Fortunately I had the wit to buy a "practice" loco body from Chris Ward so I have been playing with this rather than the actual loco I will build.
On the subject of Humbrol Paints, there has been much critical comment on another forum (model cars) about the quality now that production is at Hornby. I have been having drying issues with Humbrol on a scratch build I am doing so will avoid (or at least well test) these paints before use.
Looks like the practices around 3D printed locos are much of a "developing art" at this stage
I have a final and probably stupid question - what is the best way to attach the Kato chassis to the body - I'd seen blu-tack mentioned
Regards
Bob
I have recently been doing some work on a 3d printed body to try and reduce the finish.
I've done a little work with a fibreglass brush, then applied a few coats of "Mr. White surfacer 1000" filler primer produced by Gunzo. It's a very useful product as it's given many areas of the print a glassy finish.
Unfortunately one area I'll have to try and hide is the cab roof, I think that's more down to my artwork than the printing process, though, and it'll easily be hidden beneath a sheet of tin.
Re. normal paints, if it's of use, Bob... I use the Citadel Colour range produced by Warhammer, I'm a lousy painter and often think I ruin my models when I get a paintbrush out, but this range of paints is very good and helps me get a bit better finish than I used to using Humbrol and Railmatch. Worth a try perhaps.
I've no quantitative "proof" with measures of surface roughness etc. but I suspect the 3D printing method makes surfaces look worse than they are. I'm fairly sure that many whitemetal castings with their slight orange-peely surface are just as rough but the surface pattern is random. With 3D printing and on cab roofs in particular the "moire fringe" like stepping is most noticable because of the regular lines.
I have one Chris Ward and one Tebee Shapeways model that I'm slowly working on.
The Shapeways model still had slight traces of the supporting wax that I removed with warm water, detergent and a toothbrush and later methylated spirits.
I forget how I started with the Chris Ward other than I tried burnishing various things and then decided to strip the paint. It seemed to be more susceptible to warm-hot water and I needed to wedge the cab sides with matchsticks between the "engine cover" and sides so they dried flat as they warped inwards after the first soaking. There was also some whitish jelly-like paste that I scraped from the inside. This might have been supporting wax though I feared it may have been resin.
However, never fear, dispite all my abuse I still have two models and they have had one coat of acrylic primer each.
I too got a glassy finish on the horizontal flat bonnet surface, thought it was pretty much there when I started. The worst problem is that I managed to crack one of the window uprights and needed to fix it with superglue. I also tried "flooding" the moulded in couplings with very thin superglue and filed/wet and dried them.
I've made 3 of Chrises locos and have glued the chassis in with a spot of superglue. I needed to remove one chassis and it popped out no problem with a bit of levering.
I find once they are painted and you've given them a bit of a rub over they look fine. The double Fairlie on the front page of his site is one of mine and was painted with acrylic paints. (Games workshop - Snot Green)
I've had to stop myself buying more as the last thing I need is more locos!
(https://forum.009society.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi808.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fzz5%2FIsleofstoner%2FIsle%2520of%2520Stoner%2520Locomotives%2Fth_DSC03209.jpg&hash=b5afc6fb1fa4ad6a81d8e3a1be656d8c064d4ebc) (http://s808.photobucket.com/albums/zz5/Isleofstoner/Isle%20of%20Stoner%20Locomotives/?action=view¤t=DSC03209.jpg)
(https://forum.009society.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi808.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fzz5%2FIsleofstoner%2FIsle%2520of%2520Stoner%2520Locomotives%2Fth_DSC03060.jpg&hash=a4cba44e1399d2c083d529c2fc44690cdf5bfd49) (http://s808.photobucket.com/albums/zz5/Isleofstoner/Isle%20of%20Stoner%20Locomotives/?action=view¤t=DSC03060.jpg)
(https://forum.009society.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi808.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fzz5%2FIsleofstoner%2FIsle%2520of%2520Stoner%2520Locomotives%2FLord%2520Stoner%2520-%2520Double%2520Fairlie%2Fth_DSC02990.jpg&hash=6ba20333af554c54f647e63ebdaee7d8d5e7a3dd) (http://s808.photobucket.com/albums/zz5/Isleofstoner/Isle%20of%20Stoner%20Locomotives/Lord%20Stoner%20-%20Double%20Fairlie/?action=view¤t=DSC02990.jpg)
I've added bits and bobs here and there which helps, domes seem to be a weak spot of the printing technique. What a brilliant idea though. Since these pics I've added plates from Narrow Planet too.
John W
Quote from: Isle of Stoner on November 03, 2012, 18:34
..................................... the last thing I need is more locos!
John W
Go and wash your mouth out with soap That Man, how can you say such a thing. And here's me thinking that you have the world's largest bitza box as well. >:( :o
Mick
Guys
As ever I really appreciate the advice and help that is being given.
Apologies again but a couple of further queries:
1. where could I source some brass hand rails ?
2. thinking about weight, has anyone used liquid lead (or similar) and if so where and how. I was thinking of using it glued in a couple of tubes (think I have seen this idea somehere) and then glue the tubes onto the inside of the loco as near as possible to the kato chassis (to lower the c of G as far as possible)
I promise a couple of pics once I have finished the loco(s)
Thanks
Bob
I get my handrails and knobs from evil bay. Just put 'handrail knob' in the search, usually seems to bring up something. Go for the shortest shanked knob you can find.
As for weight, cram as much lead etc inside as you can. None of my KATO powered locos could pull a skin of a rice pudding let alone a train up the gradients on my main line.
Look forward to the pics.
And Mick... I'm sorry for what I said. I'll wash my mouth out with beer. ;D
John W
Quote from: berryr99 on November 02, 2012, 21:14
I have a final and probably stupid question - what is the best way to attach the Kato chassis to the body - I'd seen blu-tack mentioned
Regards
Bob
I have used 14BA (I think they are) cheese-head screws. Ther's no need to tap a thread. Drill clearance holes in the chassis and holes 0.5mm narrower in the body. The screw self-taps a thread as you (carefully) screw it it. I'll try to remember to post a photo of the underside on one of my locos.
Eileen's do handrail knobs and handrail wire (usual disclaimer) I think I got my small BA screws (bolts?) from Squires
Right. Here is the underside of the Fairlie:
(https://forum.009society.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhnorwood.co.uk%2Ffiles%2Fimages%2Ffairlie_under.jpg&hash=88e46f5e6cc386782236d5c90e4c16780f3a3dbf)
And the Dutch Tram loco:
(https://forum.009society.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhnorwood.co.uk%2Ffiles%2Fimages%2Ftram_under.jpg&hash=b2c1beb35cb1590ff1fea2dd0cd2c624c5bf05f5)
I have used the small BA screw to hold the coupling in place, too!
Hope this helps..
All,
As ever, all advice given is most appreciated....however.....
I have tried burnishing with a cocktail stick, a rounded cocktail stick, a manicure stick and also a round ended metal wax sculpting tool.
What I am getting are striations that don't burnish out (i.e. the surface does not go smooth), although it does go shiney.
I was just wondering if this is the result that everyone else gets or am I being too heavy handed.
I have tried to be as light as possible in some areas but the result is the same.
This is my practice model so not that important to not damage it but I'd like to think I was on the right lines for the "real" model.
I noted that burnishing is also advised between coats of paint - presumably this helps to fill in the striations ?
Thanks again for the advice
Bob
Quote from: berryr99 on November 20, 2012, 19:58
All,
As ever, all advice given is most appreciated....however.....
I have tried burnishing with a cocktail stick, a rounded cocktail stick, a manicure stick and also a round ended metal wax sculpting tool.
What I am getting are striations that don't burnish out (i.e. the surface does not go smooth), although it does go shiney.
I was just wondering if this is the result that everyone else gets or am I being too heavy handed.
I have tried to be as light as possible in some areas but the result is the same.
This is my practice model so not that important to not damage it but I'd like to think I was on the right lines for the "real" model.
I noted that burnishing is also advised between coats of paint - presumably this helps to fill in the striations ?
Thanks again for the advice
Bob
The striations cannot be completely eliminated, only minimised. After burnishing, respray with primer, and after that has dried, apply the topcoat colour. When you hold the model close to, say 6 to 9 inches away, the striations will still be visible, but at normal viewing distance on a layout, say 18 ins. plus, they will be difficult to detect.
Good afternoon,
The Chris Ward locos are nearly finished and all help thus far has been much appreciated.
I'm a bit stuck on how to fit the hand rails into the handrail knobs nice and neatly.
At the moment I am trimming the handrails to within a few mm of the correct size, supergluing them in and then trimming off the excess with some side cutters. Then I have to file down the small remaining length of handrail back to the hand rail knob. Its Ok...ish but is still leaving a little bit of untidiness next to the handrail knob.
I was wondering if a better way is to exactly size the handrail wire and then fit it.
I was wondering how everybody else did it
Thanks
Bob.
How I do it:
first drill the holes to take the handrail knobs.
Thread two handrail knobs onto the wire (presuming there's two to fit) I find they seem to hang on the wire not at right-angles - this is not a problem. The wire is quite a bit longer than needed.
Fit the knobs into the holes on the body, taking care not to let the wire slip out of the knobs.
[repeat after swearing, until ready to proceed...]
while gently holding the assembly in place, glue the knobs into the body
Optionally slide the wire along so that it is mostly out one end of the assembly - to save on waste.
glue the wire into the knobs and trim off the excess.
Thank you Hugh,
I now seem to have managed as outlined, however, I have run out of swear words to use.
I think about 5 hand rail knobs are now lost in the carpet....yes I worked right over my desk but they seem to spring out of the tweezers quite quickly to parts unknown.
To refer to a certain set of books - I think the Bogeyman who lives under the desk has got them.
Bob
Some people swear by a fairly deep rimmed tray. However, if the parts are determined to escape there is little that can be done - except to use one of those sealed bio hazard cabinets with the rubber gauntlets to handle the materials inside perhaps? :laugh:
Quote from: berryr99 on February 18, 2013, 19:21
Thank you Hugh,
I now seem to have managed as outlined, however, I have run out of swear words to use.
I think about 5 hand rail knobs are now lost in the carpet....yes I worked right over my desk but they seem to spring out of the tweezers quite quickly to parts unknown.
To refer to a certain set of books - I think the Bogeyman who lives under the desk has got them.
Bob
Horrible things! I have probably lost as many on the floor as I have ever used!
Simon
I've learned by bitter experience to buy twice as many of the perishing things as I need. I believe that they evaporate when you drop/ping them.
Worth the bother though.
I've just bought one of the new 'England' style locos home to put together so I'll post some pics when I get a minute. I'm off to Cardiff tomorrow then back for a day and the off to London to unload 'Princess' at Paddington, back for a couple of days and then back to London for the public unveiling...
Blimey.
John W
Quote from: berryr99 on February 18, 2013, 19:21
I think about 5 hand rail knobs are now lost in the carpet....yes I worked right over my desk but they seem to spring out of the tweezers quite quickly to parts unknown.
Bob
Ah - I didn't think of using tweezers! I hold the handrail knobs between a thumb and finger during the threading process... Once they're threaded on to the wire, you could put a small piece of blu-tak at each end of the wire to stop them falling off until they're stuck in place, perhaps.
Tweezers can be vindictive little things and ping stuff all over the place. I'm still looking for a useful self-closing pair and perhaps something over the tips to make the jaws (?) softer - but without being too bulky.
I use a pair of surgical forceps whilst reaming and threading the wire but its when I use the tweezers for (say) putting the handrail knobs into the loco body or offering them up to the forceps that the problems start.
I have a small three pronged device that I use from time to time for small objects - it was included with a computer toolkit I got some time ago. Its about the size of a biro and has three extending (and retracting) wire prongs. Its not much good for handrails though because of their shape but it is good for putting small screws in.
Bob
I attach a picture of the completed Chris Ward Growlers - just need to get some transfers/name plates and detail the headlamps/horn.
The finish is BR Green (Precision Paints)
Please can anyone advise me if I should laquer the finish and if so what laquer to use ?
Thank you all for the past help on this topic, however, I have a new project on the stocks - a Tom Bell Sentinel
Bob Berry
Very nice locos!
If you want a lacquer surface over the model then I use Rustoleum Crystal Clear Matt spray which is available from a well-known orange DIY superstore chain as I mentioned in my OO9 News article recently. Spray before fitting the chassis.
My own experiences for what they are worth are:
Manicure sticks from a pharmacy work well with cocktail sticks for the tight places on the model. I also use a flour grade sanding paper for the main surfaces but with care as the surface is very delicate.
I tend to use the Humbrol spray paints as they cover well, building up in several thin coats.
Handrails are 4mm medium handrail stanchions from Eileen's Emporium with their 0.4mm brass wire. The secret I have found is to drill the holes so that they fit easily and then superglue one stanchion at the end of the piece of wire. Put superglue carefully in each hole with a cocktail stick. Thread the rest on to the wire and then fit with the glued one first, taking care to hold on to the wire at all times! I sympathise with your loss of these tiny items. We have a laminate floor and we still cannot find things that fall on it so carpet must be a nightmare.
The other thing which you may find useful for the windows is Deluxe Materials Glue-n-Glaze. Fill each window with a thin coat. Do the windows at one end of the cab at a time and then stand the loco on end until they dry. A little heat from a warm radiator can speed the process but never put the loco directly on the radiator, use a pice of folded kitchen towel between the radiator and the loco. Note that for larger windows on a loco you will need to use acetate sheet as this method is not suitable.
I hope that these tips are of use.
Jim,
Thank you for the complement.
Thanks for these tips which are very useful.
The handrails one is one of those doh ! moments for me - I wish I'd thought of that !
I'll try the Rustoleum spray as I think it will protect my locos during handling and I'm assuming I would put the transfers on before spraying.
I will go to the orange superstore next Wednesday on Diamond Discount day - whereabouts would I find the product in the store - in the paints section maybe ?
Finally I note you are in a good location for the IOM steam railway which I have visited many times in the last 40 years and much enjoyed.
Bob
Good luck with the spray.
Unfortunately the railway you refer to is a very long way from me. However, the IOW Steam Railway is one of the most popular in the UK but unfortunately not narrow gauge.
Very nice pair of locos, Bob
Sorry Jim, I misread your location !
To my regret the nearest I have ever been to the Isle of Wight is sailing in a Thames Barge along the Solent some years ago. I'm pleased though that you are able to see live steam.
Thanks Hugh, I appreciate the encouragement, I hope my colleagues in the Tyne-Tees 009 group are impressed tomorrow !
Bob
Bob, good morning, I have never been here before, this is my first time on the forum, so I was interested to see the threads, (I think I have the lingo)
1) If you let me know your postal address regarding finishing, I will send you something in the post. You should have had an instruction leaflet in the box of the Loco when purchased.
unless you purchased one from our 'breakers yard' box at a show.
2) Meanwhile, no abrasives are recommended until after you have 'burnished' smoothed out the surface and applied at least 2 coats of your chosen paint.
3) Where the straitions occur smooth them with a 'Smooth' manicure stick (boots chemist 5 for
Hi Chris,
I met you at the Expo NG show last October at Swanley.
Thank you for your comments which are very helpful.
I bought a complete loco and a "breaker" (it was not badly broken and I finished it with a few repairs ) so I have the instruction sheet thanks.
I ended up using a tool from Hobbycraft called "Sculpty" I think which has a rounded metal end and I was eventually very pleased with the finish I got.
I put a picture on the forum on 21st February of the (almost) completed locos.
I will hopefully be parting with some more hard earned cash next month when you are at Narrow Gauge North as I fancy doing a couple of the Hunslets next.
Bob
I think this might be one of my final requests for help on this topic - I'm incredibly grateful for all the help thus far !
A fellow member of the Tyne-Tees 009 group has very kindly given me some suitable name plates for the two Growlers.
I'm not sure what the best way is of attaching them though.
The simplest way might be with Superglue but I have heard of other methods too.
I was planning to varnish the locos - not sure if nameplates go on after or before varnishing.
I would be grateful for any information that members can provide
Thanks
Robert Berry
I use superglue and varnish over them but I've read that superglue isn't the best. I think there is advice on the Narrow Planet website.
See you at NGN.
John W
I would actually add the plates on AFTER the varnish. It doesn't need a coating.
Why don't you use a tiny bit of Slo-Zap. Superglue, but you have some time to adjust the plates. You never get it right the first time (well, I don't).
Another tip: I always used enamel paint to colour the nameplates, but I find the result not very good. Recently somebody told me to use a Sharpy (=permanent markers, for all of you outside of the UK) and that actually works perfect! Use fine sandpaper to get the text back, of course.
Thanks guys, all very useful help.
Good tip on using permanent markers, I would never have thought of that
Bob
To be honest a touch of varnish over the brass nameplates once fitted will prevent the brass tarnishing, and if you do the whole loco it may even help to keep the plates in place - come to think of it I might even have used varnish to stick plates on with!
That's not even a bad suggestion, Julien.
I have just purchased a couple of these.. What primer do you recommend? I've got a spray can that I used on a couple of 1:35th scale tanks. But it feels a little 'thick' for anything this small. Is there a difference in the primer? Or am I being too heavy handed?
Quote from: Scott Rixon on August 19, 2013, 21:48
I have just purchased a couple of these.. What primer do you recommend? I've got a spray can that I used on a couple of 1:35th scale tanks. But it feels a little 'thick' for anything this small. Is there a difference in the primer? Or am I being too heavy handed?
I use PlastiKote spray can primer( available both in grey & white ). This is not because it has any inherent advantages, but because the local branch of Wilkinsons where I buy it, is only 5 minutes walk from my front door. However it covers well & it has never caused any problems.
One of the afflictions of the modern age appears to be impatience, problems start when insufficient drying & hardening time is allowed for between coats. Touch dry is simply not enough, the primer has to thoroughly cure and harden. My method is to apply a first light coat left to right then right to left on each face, wait 24 hours minimum, and then repeat but this time with the model turned through 180 degrees ( ie upside down ) . Now set aside and wait at least 48 hours before applying the top coat final colour.
Do not be tempted under any circumstances to use a domestic hair dryer to speed the drying process. 3D Printed resin models are heat sensitive and simple body heat from your fingers whilst holding the model can be sufficient to induce distortion. Similarly do not leave the model in direct sunlight or indeed near any heat source.
My experience has been that acrylic paints work best on 3D printed resin models, the only time I used enamel paint caused no end of trouble ( but of course that could have been a rogue can of Humbol ) . I can thoroughly recommend the Belton-Molotow Premium spray can range, 251 different colours. I buy mine online from Graff City ( other suppliers don't appear to carry the full range of colours ) . Graff City are very good, delivery by courier within 48 hours ( and usually next day ).
Garry
Gary
your advice is excellent. I use Halfords primer without any problems, grey to start and red later for freight stock. My latest Shapeways for US style HOn30 freight cars by mynermodels (pinddle) has virtually no straitions or lines and has cleaned up very well. I am beginning to think the quality of design is key. (My previous attempts to clean up a boxcab diesel by another designer have failed to remove deep ridges running along the roof and it remains unused).There was no residue or contamination of any sort on the white material and the first car was primed as soon as received. From order to delivery took 6 days and 3 days later I have 2 excellent cars and 3 to go. I think freight stock in 3D suits the state of the art better than locos but thats just my view
Pics are on my album in the HOn30 mail car yahoo group where there is a similar thread about 3D printing
In my impatience! for a quick result I used a spray can of enamel in the colour I wanted on a baggage car and as you say it took 3 days to dry
Peter Smith
That's good to know! And even better when it's stuff you can buy off the shelf.
I have an airbrush for the final top coat and also some matt varnish after that. I'm in no hurry, well, I want to test the loco in a hurry but the painting will take ages :)
Just need to figure out this burnishing you are all talking about! Any more tips? What exactly are you doing?
Quote from: petersmith1942 on August 20, 2013, 08:30
I am beginning to think the quality of design is key.
From what I can gather it's the way they are printed that's the key. If a model is printed at a certain angle you can get perfectly flat sides with no layering but print it from a different angle and its lines all the way! I seem to remember one of the NGRM guys saying that getting Shapeways to print it the right way was at times difficult... At least Chris can design them and print them whichever way he thinks is best as he does both parts!
you may be right but I think its the way it is designed FOR printing and the designer specification/requirement. After all the designer should see examples of the finished article before it is put on sale. I must stress I am only talking my experience and havent tried Chris Ward products; certainly Bobs 2 diesels look fine.
Peter Smith
Quote from: petersmith1942 on August 20, 2013, 11:24
you may be right but I think its the way it is designed FOR printing and the designer specification/requirement. After all the designer should see examples of the finished article before it is put on sale. I must stress I am only talking my experience and havent tried Chris Ward products; certainly Bobs 2 diesels look fine.
Peter Smith
Unfortunately, the major drawback with some of the products available from Shapeways, is that the originating designer has
not requested a test print of his/her item ( at their own expense ) before offering it for sale. To my mind this is a very dubious business practice. On two occasions in the past year I have ordered prints from Shapeways, only to be informed some days later that they cannot print the item, necessitating a refund, which also unfotunately Shapeways are a little slow in processing . Caveat emptor indeed!
Garry
Anyone also willing to post some pictures of their completed locos?
Quote from: Scott Rixon on August 20, 2013, 19:04
Anyone also willing to post some pictures of their completed locos?
My CW Pechot Bourdon is in this thread
http://www.009society.com/forum/index.php?topic=1066.0 (http://www.009society.com/forum/index.php?topic=1066.0)
and photos of my CW Dutch tram and CW Fairlie are on my layout link (below) - click on locos and rolling stock
Very nice.. Thanks..
Bob, good evening, I dont come on here very often at all. We do put a Note in all our Loco Bodies products, about the finishing using 'burnishing' this term means 'rubbing' 'smoothing' the surface by wooden manicure stick or a smooth metal object, IE A dental probe. This is 'Brass rubbing' in miniature, or 'burnishing' as used in days gone by when Letterset was the way we all used to make signs etc.
By the way Now we have very little 'finishing' to be done to our Loco Bodies as we now print in a 'Gloss' finish, we have been making parts in this way for almost a year now. In April 2014 we will take delivery of a New 3D print machine to provide an even better finish and service to all our customers
I hope this helps. Best rgds CHRIS
In support of what Chris said, I recently received a loco body from him which I have nearly completed, I will post some info when completed as I have fitted radio control to it, which may be of interest.
The finish on the model as received was extremely good and most of the surface required no additional work at all prior to painting. Sprayed with ordinary auto primer then gloss paint it gave a very good finish.
Frank
I obtained a couple of wagons from Chris at Shepton Mallet, and these are also in "gloss" finish, with auto primer, plus Humbrol matt brown they are fine.
If you want to see how the RNAD Hunslet 60hp diesels and wagons from Chris turn out then they will be a main feature of our Dean Hill which will make its debut at Sparsholt.