I thought that it was about time I added a workbench thread. As this is the first post it will basically be a test that I can add images and links, as all forums are different.
I am planning to building 2 layouts - which I will add to the layouts topic when there is something to show - but for a brief description.
First is a small through station (borad around 30" x 24") for 0-4-0 locos and 4 wheel coaches and wagons. Maximium train length 3 wagons/coaches + loco. Passing loop and single siding at front, fiddle ard at rear.
For the other, I have been planning a shunting layout for some time so decided to build one in 009. Currently I have 3 possible track plans! It is for this layout that I am currently building rolling stock.
An interesting link, for anyone who still has an Internet Explorer browser
http://www.precisionlabels.com/shunt/jpage310.html (http://www.precisionlabels.com/shunt/jpage310.html)
This is the instructions page. Click on the S&ARR or Riverside Yard links on the left panel to operate 2 layouts on screen.
Just to say again - this is an old site, coded in 2000 according to the comments, and will only work on Internet Explorer. I am currenty looking a thte code to see if it can run on something more up to date but that may take quite a while to do.
The final test for the first post is to show an image.
This, assuming it works, is a 21' 6 ton 8 axle van. Or at least it will be when I have attacked it with razor saw and modelling knife. Picked the van up recently at a shop in Kendal - I am always on the lookout for rolling stock of the correct body length that is ripe for conversion.
(https://forum.009society.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.neisar.co.uk%2Fimages_OO9%2Fclass_b%2Fwagon_x%2Fimg_001.jpg&hash=965245737f34af86b11dbe22723b8c7a1f9c6a84)
http://www.neisar.co.uk/view_wagon_image.html?b-000-001 (http://www.neisar.co.uk/view_wagon_image.html?b-000-001)
In later post I will attempt to explain the rationale behind my choice of rolling stock, and show other wagons that I have build or am in the process of building now.
(It works for me in Chrome.)
Works for me with Firefox.
I can view the pages in Chrome and Edge but all the track block tiles, segments or whatever they might be called are jumbled together at the left. I can drag one to the right but it springs back.
Yes, that is what happens - all track, stock etc end up in a heap instead of being positioned on a virtual layout.
Internet Explorer goes its own way with many things, while all other browsers work closer togther, but different to IE. This causes me endless grief in my dayjob as I need to support an application parts of which will only run on IE, and needs so much custom code and testing over what the other browsers need. Will be a happy day when IE is sunset and we no longer need to support it!
As for the conversion of this code away from IE dependancy. I had thought that this could be a tricky process, but just after making the post I did a test and it looks as though it may be quite easy.
Even if this is the case it will take me a while to get it working, as I no longer have update access to the domain it is currently running on, so would need to transfer it all to my own domain.
The next wagon I am showing is also one that it not actually on my workbench, rather one that has already passed over it twice - having been started as US HOn30 and then later recycled to 009!
Before that, a word about what I am building. I am getting together a number of wagons for my planned shunting layout. This will include 009 kits, conversion from OO bodies, conversions from N gauge bodies and scratchbuilds. Basically anthing so long as it looks right to me, but with two criteria that all wagons must meet.
Firstly, for a shunting layout things work best of all stock is about the same length. Also, at least for the track plans I have in mind, it is better if the stock is about the same length as the points. Hence rule 1 is that all stock will be around 3.5", or around 22' in 4mm scale.
The second rule is from the fact that for reliable operation you need good running gear and couplings. As some 009 bogies are better than others, and not all couplers are fully compatible with each other, this really means sticking with just one type that does work well. There were a few options here, but I chose to standardise on Peco bogies and couplers.
Ok, finally to the wagon mentioned initially. This was originally built for a US HOn30 layout, and is converted from a Bachmann N gauge 40' steel gondola (these models were everwhere at one time, but you rarely ever seen one now). I basically cut the wagon in two down the centre, removed all traces of the ends leaving the sides intact, and then removed any N scale details. I then cut a new floor from scribed plasticard and rejoined the two halves to a 25mm width. I also added another floor below the remains of the original floor for strength.
(https://forum.009society.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.neisar.co.uk%2Fimages_OO9%2Fclass_b%2Fwagon_001%2Fimg_001.jpg&hash=aaea0b6024daf94012369b0025d98357c292851d)
http://www.neisar.co.uk/view_wagon_image.html?b-001-001 (http://www.neisar.co.uk/view_wagon_image.html?b-001-001)
For the ends I rebuild these using plasticard to represent a corregated end.
(https://forum.009society.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.neisar.co.uk%2Fimages_OO9%2Fclass_b%2Fwagon_001%2Fimg_002.jpg&hash=1b859872431782a2d2bc01807b62cacd05ca7ad3)
http://www.neisar.co.uk/view_wagon_image.html?b-001-002 (http://www.neisar.co.uk/view_wagon_image.html?b-001-002)
I originally built the wagon with the original N gauge bogies - which I always throught looked too short in the wheelbase - and body mounted DG couplers. To use this for 009 I removed the bogies and couplers and replaced them with Peco items on raised bolsters of .060" strip with 4mm holes. This is the one part of the wagon I am not fully happy with, in that it rides higher than I would like. Had I been building this from the start for 009/Peco bogies I would have left out the lower floor allowing the bogies to sit higher under the chasis.
(https://forum.009society.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.neisar.co.uk%2Fimages_OO9%2Fclass_b%2Fwagon_001%2Fimg_003.jpg&hash=8157e744d480fe52fe7054b0dd0d634d8628123a)
http://www.neisar.co.uk/view_wagon_image.html?b-001-003 (http://www.neisar.co.uk/view_wagon_image.html?b-001-003)
That's a nicely done conversion.
This is the first of the wagons that is actually on my workbench now.
However, before we get to that, I did say that I was going to fix my on screen shunting web pages to work with all browsers. I have basically just copied the relevant pages from the precision labels site to my own host, with the required code changes
There are 2 layouts on there, a Timesaver and an Inglenook Sidings. As these still have the names from where they were planned as US layouts they are named S&ARR and Riverside Yard respectively. There are instructions accesible from the m enu as well - I recommend a quick read first.
http://www.neisar.co.uk/shunt/jpage300.html (http://www.neisar.co.uk/shunt/jpage300.html)
Now to the first wagon I am showing from those currently on my bench. I am always on the lookout for wagons bodies, in any scale, that are around 3.5" in length, or 22' OO scale. One that fits the bill is the Dapol Grampus. Fortunately this is available as a body only unpainted.
(https://forum.009society.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.neisar.co.uk%2Fimages_OO9%2Fclass_b%2Fwagon_005%2Fimg_001.jpg&hash=8defd669f4e245d7398e30f71024a6ccc50b1ef8)
http://www.neisar.co.uk/view_wagon_image.html?b-005-001 (http://www.neisar.co.uk/view_wagon_image.html?b-005-001)
For this conversion I firstly removed the ends, then cut where the floor meets the side from the inside of the wagon to separate one side. I then cut the floor to a width such that the overal wagon width, floor + sides - would be around 25mm. That done I rejoined the removed side to the now cut down floor. There is not much strength here at the moment, but should be OK when the ends are fixed in.
I am currently undecided about how to complete the ends. One options is to cut the end original ends that I removed. Another is to used corregated plastic sheet as per the steel open I showed earlier. A third posibility is to build the ends from plain sheet and then attach half round strip horizontally and spaced out, to create a different kind of corregated effect.
Look forward to the finished model. On 3 pieces of paper write the ends you like, fold them up and place them in a small basket. Close your eyes and take out one folded paper, what ever it is, that will be the ends of your gondola.
Have fun, what ever you decided will be perfect.
No 'real world' updates at the moment because I did not have normal access to my work bench over the Christmas break. hopefully normal service will be resumed soon...
As an aside, to keep the thread updated, I did spend some time on my 'virtual bench', i.e. my computer. This is not OO9 - far from it - but it is definately narrow gauge. It is a Lynton & Barnstaple van in 1/200 scale to run on T gauge (3mm) track.
(https://forum.009society.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.neisar.co.uk%2Fimages_OO9%2Fclass_b%2Fwagon_x%2Fimg_002.jpg&hash=7003791bb554be8b95136b34d9bc70808aed51c1)
http://www.neisar.co.uk/view_wagon_image.html?b-000-002 (http://www.neisar.co.uk/view_wagon_image.html?b-000-002)
Model is nearly complete. Once done I plan to get this, and a US 3 foot gauge East Tennesse & Western North Carolina wood hopper in 1/300 scale, printed by Shapeways to see if they really will work out when printed.
Quote from: NeilMac on January 01, 2022, 08:32
No 'real world' updates at the moment because I did not have normal access to my work bench over the Christmas break. hopefully normal service will be resumed soon...
I know the feeling - my workbench is the kitchen table!
:)
On to another wagon currently on my bench. You will see from the photos I will be showing that I do not beleive in working on just one at a time, many more under construction still to show!
This one is based on the Hornby cattle wagon. This is another wagon that just happens to be with the correct length range for my layout, being 85mm, or 21' 3" scale. A plus is that it is already in SR livery - if I can build it without damaging the lettering too much.
The first image shows the start I have made on this wagon, alongside an original example which is ripe for a second conversion at another time
(https://forum.009society.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.neisar.co.uk%2Fimages_OO9%2Fclass_b%2Fwagon_004%2Fimg_001.jpg&hash=d8abb027e22348c9c227652fd12d9ad3a1e7bf63)
http://www.neisar.co.uk/view_wagon_image.html?b-004-001 (http://www.neisar.co.uk/view_wagon_image.html?b-004-001)
The second image is the same from a different angle
(https://forum.009society.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.neisar.co.uk%2Fimages_OO9%2Fclass_b%2Fwagon_004%2Fimg_002.jpg&hash=d8091be99463e8330824bf31b87bd7191226e838)
http://www.neisar.co.uk/view_wagon_image.html?b-004-002 (http://www.neisar.co.uk/view_wagon_image.html?b-004-002)
This shows how I have narrow the body down to 6' width by taking a slice from the centre of each end, plus the same slice out of the floor so that the 2 halves will fit back together.
In fact this is almost all of the body modification that are needed, the only remaining job being to file the tops of the ends back to a smooth radius in readiness for adding a roof.
And from underneath
(https://forum.009society.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.neisar.co.uk%2Fimages_OO9%2Fclass_b%2Fwagon_004%2Fimg_003.jpg&hash=a0f35e6c9470c250091a7bd8572cc6addb128431)
http://www.neisar.co.uk/view_wagon_image.html?b-004-003 (http://www.neisar.co.uk/view_wagon_image.html?b-004-003)
This shows the start I have made on the underframe. Becuase this is a high body compared to some of the other I am working on I placed the bolsters directly against the floor, having first cut out enough clearance for the bogie mounting clip to pass through the bolster.
The heasdstocks are .080" square because that is the height that works best with the bolsters up agains the floor.
I have since cut the solebars to length and they are ready for fitting. I used .080" square for these as well. I could equaly have used .080" x .040" which I also had in stock, but the extra thickness is hidden from view, and helps ensure that they will stay straight when being fitted.
Nice description Neil, but I can't locate the photos that you refer to which aren't on the posting either "in person" or via a link.
Mick
Mick,
Can I ask how you are viewing the forum? I created the posts on my laptop, and all is well, however when I try it on my phone I am seeing the posts without images.
Hi Neil,
I'm viewing on a PC using Chrome. No problems with any other postings by others in seeing uploaded photos or photos I've uploaded myself.
This is what I can see from your posting made yesterday (7 Jan):
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Posted by: NeilMac
« on: January 07, 2022, 03:47:25 PM »Insert Quote
On to another wagon currently on my bench. You will see from the photos I will be showing that I do not beleive in working on just one at a time, many more under construction still to show!
This one is based on the Hornby cattle wagon. This is another wagon that just happens to be with the correct length range for my layout, being 85mm, or 21' 3" scale. A plus is that it is already in SR livery - if I can build it without damaging the lettering too much.
The first image shows the start I have made on this wagon, alongside an original example which is ripe for a second conversion at another time
The second image is the same from a different angle
This shows how I have narrow the body down to 6' width by taking a slice from the centre of each end, plus the same slice out of the floor so that the 2 halves will fit back together.
In fact this is almost all of the body modification that are needed, the only remaining job being to file the tops of the ends back to a smooth radius in readiness for adding a roof.
And from underneath
This shows the start I have made on the underframe. Becuase this is a high body compared to some of the other I am working on I placed the bolsters directly against the floor, having first cut out enough clearance for the bogie mounting clip to pass through the bolster.
The heasdstocks are .080" square because that is the height that works best with the bolsters up agains the floor.
I have since cut the solebars to length and they are ready for fitting. I used .080" square for these as well. I could equaly have used .080" x .040" which I also had in stock, but the extra thickness is hidden from view, and helps ensure that they will stay straight when being fitted.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Mick
The three images are inside tags.
http://www.neisar.co.uk/images_OO9/class_b/wagon_004/img_003.jpg
http://www.neisar.co.uk/images_OO9/class_b/wagon_004/img_003.jpg
http://www.neisar.co.uk/images_OO9/class_b/wagon_004/img_003.jpg
Just a single photo update here, but I have been looking into the lack of images for some viewers.
Could I ask for feedback to see if this is working for everyone else as I it works for me. I can see all the photos when I use Firefox, but none show when I use Chrome or Edge. The links below the photos work for all browsers.
I have editing all the earlier postings and added links to open the photos in a viewer in a separate tab. Not as clean a solution as having them show directly, but does allow them to be viewed.
The problems seems to be trying to display photos stored http on a https forum. If that leaves you totally confused then I am sort of envious - for me it is part of my dayjob, and explains why my none of my layouts have ever used DCC. Also why, until I bought some newer locos and found out how damaging it could be to them, I stuck with my H&M Duette for control.
Finally, to the update. This is the start of a conversion on a Dapol refridgerator wagon kit. The side were too long for my 22' requirement, so the first step is to cut them down. In the photo one side is still full length, and the other has been trimmed. Since taking the photo I have trimmed the second side to suit.
(https://forum.009society.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.neisar.co.uk%2Fimages_OO9%2Fclass_b%2Fwagon_006%2Fimg_001.jpg&hash=a8f6affb03c089c2fe5a1cf2c57e69831225d3a2)
http://www.neisar.co.uk/view_wagon_image.html?b-006-001 (http://www.neisar.co.uk/view_wagon_image.html?b-006-001)
Hi Neil.
I can see the pictures OK. I'm using Firefox 96.0 (64 bit) on Win 10.
I think the problem with Chrome might be that you are using http rather than https
I had the same issue a while back when trying to post images from my website, which also only uses http (I can't see the point of paying for a encryption key when I'm not selling anything, nor gathering data from visitors!)
I got round the issue by opening an imgur account and copying the images there. you can link to images from imgur and they show up fine as imgur uses https
(Just a possible solution...)
I think you are seeing enough different wagons here being worked on together to realise why no single one makes it off my workbench quickly, especially as there are probably 3 more in progress that I have not shown yet. However, failing to learn from this, when I could not use my bench over Christmas I had a rumage through old parts, kit, part built and abondoned conversions etc to find what I could use. Items I found spread themselves across 4 scales from N to O.
(https://forum.009society.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.neisar.co.uk%2Fimages_OO9%2Fclass_b%2Fwagon_x%2Fimg_003.jpg&hash=2babf7f871c5ac0a676926d71c60d564f8bfc592)
http://www.neisar.co.uk/view_wagon_image?b-000-003 (http://www.neisar.co.uk/view_wagon_image?b-000-003)
Going in reducing order of scale the first is a tank body from a Chivers On30 kit, which works out just over 20' so just within my length criteria. For this I have a choice of building a steel underframe - really just a large I girder beneath the tank with outriggers to hold the bolsters for the bogies. Alternatively I could mount it on a wooden decked flat wagon. At the moment I am leaning towards the wood flat wagon, possibly with real wood for the deck. As I have just reread my book on weather this may end up rusty, stained and looking towards the end of its usefull life.
For the 4 wheel coach, just one of several I could have selected, I plan to use just the body and combine this with an open wagon body or scratch built sides to create a permanent way crew vehicle with part crew facilities and part for carrying tools or materials.
The N gauge boxcar is a 40' hi cube that I had previously started as a HOn30 US boxcar. This is within the length required - just - and with the extra height works out tall enough for 009 as well. Previously I had started this using the existing roof roughly rejoined with a plasticard strip in readiness for a wide roofwalk to cover the gap, having previously done this on an earlier conversion. However for 009 I plan to cut out the entire roof and replace it with a curved one as per the other wagons in my fleet. The bogies will also be changed from the N gauge ones currently used to my standard of Peco 009 bogies.
Finally an other Bachmann US car. The photo is dark here, but this is a composite construction - wood behind a steel frame - so is slightly different to the steel version I had showed earlier in the thread. Again this should be a simple case of remove the ends, half the body, rejoin with a false floor, replace the ends, and finally add bogies and paint.
One thing about the last model here. Due to its similarity to the steel open wagon I plan to paint it a very different colour to the grey that that one appears in. An explanation of the way I am thinking here being related back to the use of these wagons on a shunting layout. For this kind of layout a common method of deciding which wagons need to be shuted where is to use cards each with a photo of one of the wagons which can then be shunted and laid out to indicated what needs to go where. The use of such a system works best when the wagons are either all distinctly different types or are painted in obviously different colours. The method however struggles if the only real difference between the wagons is the reporting numbers. Hence why I am generaly trying to pick different wagon types, or thinking well in advance about liveries.
Progress on one wagon, plus 2 already completed wagons which I have not shown yet.
The progress was on the Dapol Grampus conversion, adding the ends and bolsters
(https://forum.009society.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.neisar.co.uk%2Fimages_OO9%2Fclass_b%2Fwagon_005%2Fimg_002.jpg&hash=0ae1cda717f032ce580f8abc3a484b880a32d107)
http://www.neisar.co.uk/view_wagon_image.html?b-005-002 (http://www.neisar.co.uk/view_wagon_image.html?b-005-002)
This shows that after having a decision to make about how to complete the ends, as covered in a previous post, I decided to try reusing the original ends that I cut out before halving the body. I firstly cut these oversize by trimming both sides equally with a craft knife, and then finished using wet and dry to ensure they were a good fit between the ends.
(https://forum.009society.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.neisar.co.uk%2Fimages_OO9%2Fclass_b%2Fwagon_005%2Fimg_003.jpg&hash=9ea5c6ebd2b3d03e6bbd012f14926bf3fefcaca3)
http://www.neisar.co.uk/view_wagon_image.html?b-005-003 (http://www.neisar.co.uk/view_wagon_image.html?b-005-003)
For this wagon I was able to reuse the original floor cut down when I reassembled the body, which meant that the bolsters need the full .040" padding to clear the mounting pin on the bogies. Still to do here is to complete the underframe, which will be to represent a steel rather than wood for this wagon.
Looking now at the photos whilst preparing this I also noticed that the 4mm hole in the nearest bolster has a ridge around it from the drilling, so that will need sanding back smooth to ensure good running when the bogies are attached.
Using the minimum definition of 'operatable wagon' to cover anything with enough bodywork to support the bolters and allow bogies to be fitted I now have 5 wagons that fit this description. I did think that as soon as I had enough wagons to be able to test a layout during building I would start one. Of the 3 track layouts I was considering two require a minimum of 6 wagons and the other, depending on the size I build it, needs either 5 or 8. However I do know I get more distracted building rolling stock that actually getting on with layout building, so watch this space but do not hold your breath!
These are 2 wagons that I had already completed before starting this thread
(https://forum.009society.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.neisar.co.uk%2Fimages_OO9%2Fclass_b%2Fwagon_003%2Fimg_001.jpg&hash=aea52677705231fb6a297a5c31c28c5662064b70)
http://www.neisar.co.uk/view_wagon_image.html?b-003-001 (http://www.neisar.co.uk/view_wagon_image.html?b-003-001)
(https://forum.009society.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.neisar.co.uk%2Fimages_OO9%2Fclass_b%2Fwagon_003%2Fimg_002.jpg&hash=ec073e39063d81d46a850bb36ea123da12357b9b)
http://www.neisar.co.uk/view_wagon_image.html?b-003-002 (http://www.neisar.co.uk/view_wagon_image.html?b-003-002)
This is the Dundas kit. This is withn the length range for my layout at just over 20', or at least is is without the WD bogies sticking out of the end. In line with the other requirment for my stock, i.e. use of Peco bogies, I added these fully under the wagon. The back story for the line being that the wagon was bought second hand but the bogies were either unservicable, or just missing, so the local shop just fitted what was working for other stock.
(https://forum.009society.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.neisar.co.uk%2Fimages_OO9%2Fclass_b%2Fwagon_002%2Fimg_001.jpg&hash=bcecac669520976e34e88a46b61e6d3b63ef545c)
http://www.neisar.co.uk/view_wagon_image.html?b-002-001 (http://www.neisar.co.uk/view_wagon_image.html?b-002-001)
Another chassis alteration was this Bemo wagon. Original, as bought for the club sales stand, it was a 6 wheeler. That did not look good for operating through small radius points, so this was also swithed to Peco bogies. Interestingly although the box this came in was labeled HOe, it was not until I came to dismantle it that I realised the wheelsets were HOm, so it would never have been able to run on my layout anyway. Being HOe/HOm this wagon is the widest of those I have built, so this is the one I will be using to check clearances when I do start a layout.
It is a neat idea to use Peco bogies on the Dundas WD bogie van. How did you go about fixing them to the underside of the van?
Thanks, Julian
Quote from: Julian Evison on January 21, 2022, 17:23
It is a neat idea to use Peco bogies on the Dundas WD bogie van. How did you go about fixing them to the underside of the van?
Thanks, Julian
Julian,
Because the kit does not have the floor mounted high enough up in the sides I used the bolster alone without the packing. i.e. just a .060" strip drilled out 4mm, and then cut a hole in the floor above the 4mm hole for the mounting pin on the bogie to pass through. I did it this way because otherwise the wagon would have riden too high for the look I was after.
However with this kit it was not quite that simple! As supplied the chassis has 2 attachment points for the kit supplied bogies which end up completely in the way. This is easier or harder to get round depending on whether your kit is already built.
If not built - mine wasn't - then I cut the chassis in half, reversed the two halves such that the mountings were now in the centre of the wagon out of the way, and then fitted it upside down, leaving a flat chassis underneath ready for drilling out before attaching the bolsters.
If your kit is already built then all is not lost, just a bit more work. You can cut the bogie mountings out, possibly using holes drilled round it first to help. The plastic is quite soft so should not be too hard to do. Ensure there is enough chassis left at either side, then make the bolsters full width and attach them.
Not a lot to show at the moment, but adding this now because I think I have solved the problem of images not appearing on any other browser than Firefox.
I have been working on the chassis for the Dapol Grampus conversion. This is a bit more involved than other chassis I have been creating because it will represent steel rather than wood. I could have ordered some I beam for this, but to save postage costs and waiting time I have been building m own from regular rectangular strip.
The only slight progress to see is on the refiedgerator wagon (Dapol interfrigo conversion)
(https://www.neisar.co.uk/images_OO9/class_b/wagon_006/img_002.jpg)
All I have done here is to add a level strip to the bottom of the sides in readiness for assembling these to a floor. This is the second wagon I have now got to this stage, so a floor cutting session will be called for very soon.
Quote from: NeilMac on January 22, 2022, 08:18
Quote from: Julian Evison on January 21, 2022, 17:23
It is a neat idea to use Peco bogies on the Dundas WD bogie van. How did you go about fixing them to the underside of the van?
Thanks, Julian
Julian,
Because the kit does not have the floor mounted high enough up in the sides I used the bolster alone without the packing. i.e. just a .060" strip drilled out 4mm, and then cut a hole in the floor above the 4mm hole for the mounting pin on the bogie to pass through. I did it this way because otherwise the wagon would have riden too high for the look I was after.
However with this kit it was not quite that simple! As supplied the chassis has 2 attachment points for the kit supplied bogies which end up completely in the way. This is easier or harder to get round depending on whether your kit is already built.
If not built - mine wasn't - then I cut the chassis in half, reversed the two halves such that the mountings were now in the centre of the wagon out of the way, and then fitted it upside down, leaving a flat chassis underneath ready for drilling out before attaching the bolsters.
If your kit is already built then all is not lost, just a bit more work. You can cut the bogie mountings out, possibly using holes drilled round it first to help. The plastic is quite soft so should not be too hard to do. Ensure there is enough chassis left at either side, then make the bolsters full width and attach them.
Neil, thanks for the clear and full explanation. It is a neat solution
Julian
I have made some more progress on a number of wagons. just to show how many I am working on together this update will show two wagons not shown before
(https://www.neisar.co.uk/images_OO9/class_b/wagon_005/img_004.jpg)
The Dapol Grampus conversion now has chassis detail. Difficult to see the detail of the white in the photo, but this is a representation of a steel underframe.
This now just needs details - including vac. pipes if that is what I decide to standardise on - and painting. I already have a livery in mind, and because this wagon has a good interior after the conversion I plan to run it without a load so the wood decking will need to be painted to represent weathered unpainted wood.
(https://www.neisar.co.uk/images_OO9/class_b/wagon_x/img_004.jpg)
I photographed these together because both are at the same stage. One is the Dapol Interfrigo wagon with the sides cut down to 22' a seen in an earlier post. The other, first showing of this, is a Hornby van of which I have only retained the sides. Fortunately this was battered when I bought it from a rumage tray, otherwise I may have end up try to keep the Cadburys livery on the finished model.
Both still need ends and roof, so a bit of work to do yet.
(https://www.neisar.co.uk/images_OO9/class_b/wagon_007/img_001.jpg)
This is the other first view of a conversion, this one of a Dapol 9 plank open which is another of the wagons that can be bought as a body shell only.
I bought this because the body length was within the valid range. However I then did have some doubts when I saw how high the wagon was, almost as high a most of the vans I was building. This got me to wondering just how heavy such a wagon would get if fully loaded. In the end I liked the look of the wagon and decided to continue with the build. I now just need to think of some comodity that is suitably light for it to be loaded with.
All your models look very good Neil, a lot of work has gone into them. Once painted they will look very smart.
Photographing my work has been getting behind the progress I have been making, but to start catching up here is where I am at with the Dapol 9 plank conversion
(https://www.neisar.co.uk/images_OO9/class_b/wagon_007/img_002.jpg)
This show the full underframe added to the wagon, plus the bolsters. For this wagon, due to it already being high, the bolsters are set directly against the floor, so will need a hole through this for the mounting pin. Even though this is an open wagon it is no loss needing to do this, as the floor will need covering anyway from where the original body was cut down the middle - I managed to cut and sand back both the ends neatly enough so they join up cleanly, but to do this for the full length of the floor would not have been easy.
(https://www.neisar.co.uk/images_OO9/class_b/wagon_007/img_003.jpg)
With the bolsters in place and dry it is then a moments job to attach the bogies and the wagon is usable. Still to do is the new floor already mentioned to cover the original, plus detail, weight and paint.
Another wagon not seen before. This one did not actually spend long on my workbench as there was not much that needed doing.
I bought this from the sales stand at Narrow Gauge North a few years ago. Perhaps somebody reading this recognizes it? I had though when I bought it that it was a OO gauge conversion, but on looking closer I can see that it has been scratch built
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The wagon did have 2 bolts sticking from the floor which were presumably for bogie mountings, although I bought it as a body only. All I really needed to do to get it usable was to cut out the section of floor with the bolts - no loss, I needed holes in the floor anyway - and then add bolsters. After waiting for the glue to dry the bogies could be fitted and job done.
Or very nearly - the wagon was already painted, but did have one missing detail. There was one roof ventilator, and a hole where the second should have been.
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This shows the remaining roof ventilator. Does anyone know where these may be avaialable? Presumably they are a standard 4mm detail item, but I do not know the manafacturer.
If I can not find one then I will either need to try and 3d print one, or else remove the existing one, but that action would then need the roof filling or covering and repainting so probably more work.
I am getting to the stage now where I have enough wagons to satisfy the minumum number for the layouts I am considering, so am starting to think now about coupler modifications for remote or delayed uncoupling. There are a few ways I could go on this. I may add my thoughts on the options as I see them later, after I have worked through them.
Neil,
I am sure there must be other suppliers, but one would be Alan Gibson. His catalogue is available on line as a PDF: http://www.alangibsonworkshop.com/Catalogue.html (http://www.alangibsonworkshop.com/Catalogue.html)
If you look on page 20, you will find a couple of types. I think you want the Torpedo type.
Markits also make them and are available from Roxey Mouldings: https://www.roxeymouldings.co.uk/product/1072/4ma033-torpedo-coach-roof-vents-20-/ (https://www.roxeymouldings.co.uk/product/1072/4ma033-torpedo-coach-roof-vents-20-/)
Unfortunately they are not cheap as they are turned brass. Perhaps others know of plastic moulded ones.
Julian
Having been busy on other things for a while, and then been away, I thought that I would take stock of where I am at with the stock I am building. Looking here just at the vans, so exluding the opens and cattle wagons. AS if prrof were needed I am more of a rolling stock builder than a layout builder I already have 10 vans in progress for a layout that, depending on exactly which one I build, takes a minimum number for operation of between 5 and 8.
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Back row, almost complete and can be run on a layout, left to right;
- Bemo 6 wheeler conversion
- WD ambulance van converion
- Scratch built van as bought except for Peco bogies
Middle row, various stages of completion, left to right;
- Bachmann 40' hi cube conversion. Bogies fitted but still needs ends completing and a roof
- Hornby rib side van conversion. Most of the bodywork still to do
- Dapol interfrigo conversion. Most of the body to do. Working out the door hinge to be more to scale rather than oversize to allow it to open and close.
- Triang van. Underframes including included axleboxes removed. Still needs ends removing before repalcing to width and a roof.
- Lilliput van. Hope to reuse the ends on this by carefully saving the centre part. Roof to be completely replaced.
Front row, barely started;
- Unknown OO kit for GWR van (see next picture), started narrowing ends.
- Parkside LNER hopper wagon. Not yet started.
This wagon was an assembled kit I bought from, I believe, the Wakefield exhibition. Not sure of the manafacturer (does anyone know?), but it is clearly a GWR van.
(https://forum.009society.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.neisar.co.uk%2Fimages_OO9%2Fclass_b%2Fwagon_010%2Fimg_001.jpg&hash=4debf20be3670396747254c28e8b4c3d2499d47a)
This kit is made from a hard and quite brittle plastic (maybe it is only brittle because it is old). Because of this it does take some time to cut, so I have only got one of the ends cut to width for now. Next will be to trim the second such that both are exactly the same width, to ensure that the body will be rectangular when reassembled.
Having found that I already have 10 vans in progress, it is Narrow Gauge North this weeked which I am hoping to get to, so who knows what I will find on the sales stand, or with the traders there.
It has been a long while since I added any updates here! I have been doing other things for most of the time, and although I have made some progress most of what I did was a bit here and a bit there working on several wagons at once, which means there was never a lot to show.
Having now got back to spending more time model building I am starting to get more done, and have got some photos taken to keep the thread active.
The first two photos are the result of a sunny day, when I went outside with a razor saw and a junior hacksaw to cut down two wagon bodies, one HO and one OO
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First the HO one, a Liliput van. As can be seen I have cut the sides from the floor and the ends. I have been careful with the ends as I am planning to narrow these and reuse them. I think I will need to set them further back, due to the corrugations being full depth across the wagon when cut down, rather that tapered at the ends - but I think I can still make it work.
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Second the Triang body. Not much left here from this one. I had already removed the axleboxes - which were moulded as part of the body. I have discarded the ends because the origina body had plain ends, whereas the sides have plank detail. I plan to build new ends from 2mm scribed platicard, which will match the plank width on the sides.
I have also been think about couplers.
I have not gone into detail on the layout plans that I am thinking of constructing one from. That really should go in a layout thread, but being so early in the process that thread would go very stale before I have anything to show. But just to mention of the 3 layouts one needs remote (fixed locations) uncoupling , one needs delayed action, whilst the third may manage with remote, but would be better with delayed action.
I have seen how Peco couplers can be adapted for remote magnetic uncoupling. This looks easy to do - with the caveat I have only seen pictures and not yet tried it. another option would be grass tuft uncouplers. Not sure if this would work with the Peco bogies because the retainer plate is so low, but this should be easy to test.
As for delayed action. I think I have worked out a way that magnetic uncoupling could also be made delayed.
I think I will have a lot of trial and error testing to do to test this out, and work out the best type of magnets to use, neodym (very powerful, but also very critical in positionong due to quick fall off) or regular 'old style' magnets.
With respect to couplings you could try the Greenwich ones that are designed to be used with magnets for remote hands free operation, though you will need to make them up from the kit.
If you already have Peco couplings as these have come as part of the bogies you are using then they should be fitting into an NEM socket. One of the Greenwich couplings, CPL3, is designed to fit into the NEM socket making conversion easier.
For the delayed action this can be achieved by adding a horizontal wire above the coupling. I'm not sure of the specifics as I've not done this myself but I'm sure I've seen posts about it on here somewhere.
The other suggestion for delayed action (and magnetic operation) would be DG couplings. I use these myself and whilst they can be a bit of a faff to make and set up they are probably no worse than the Greenwich type to build. They are available from Wizard Models (https://www.wizardmodels.ltd/?s=DG+Couplings&post_type=product&title=1&excerpt=1&content=1&categories=1&attributes=1&tags=0&sku=1&orderby=date-DESC&ixwps=1), along with jigs to help build them and electromagnets for operation. As they are of the 'lifting loop' type as long as the heights are consistent they will couple up with the Greenwich, Peco, Bemo and other similar types.
Julian,
Thanks for your input on this.
I had forgotten that Greenwich couplers were avaialble for NEM pockets. I had already reject Dapol couplers which are also available for NEM, solely in terms of cost.
I had also seen Peco style couplers converted to magnetic + delayed action by using a wire at one end od a wagon, and magnetic converion at the other. I was planning to try this, but with the thought that to make the delayed action work you would need to engage the magnet, pull back, and then pull forward again all whilst keeping the magnetc active - easier for movable permanent magnets, but not so easy with a push button activated electro magnet.
The other method I was think about for Peco coupling was magentic at one end and a tongue - DG style - at the other. This could be a brass strip soldered to a cut down loop, or the same effect could be got simply be filling in the loop so the coupler can not fall down over the pin of the opposite wagon, and the loop of that one would always go under. This would allow remote uncoupling to be actioned by a tap of an electromagnet with moving the train.
With so many options I can see plenty of testing to find firstly methods that work, and then determine which is best and can be most easily be applied to every wagon I will want to use on the layout.
Work on a different wagon to my last update;
This is based on a Bachmann N gauge 40' composite gondola body.
The first image is actually from earlier, not the sawing session with the two bodies in the last update. Here the body is cut down to only what will be kept, so cut in half and with the ends fully removed and discarded.
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More up to date now I have added a new floor to set the sides to the width for the 009 version. This is simply 2mm scribed plasticard glued to the remians of the original floor.
The previous wagon I build from a Bachmann N gauge car - that one an all steel body shell - rode higher than I would have preferred after converion, so for this one I have deliberately not added a second floor below the remains of the orginal one. Hopefully any flexibility in the body shell will be taken up when the ends are fitted.
(https://forum.009society.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.neisar.co.uk%2Fimages_OO9%2Fclass_b%2Fwagon_011%2Fimg_003.jpg&hash=01cfba07cc4c25a51085abf896b8fef35273dfd7)
Not shown, because I have not taken the photos yet, I have started on the replacement ends. These will be plain plasticard which will have half round strip added so as to represent a corrugated steel end.
After that it will just need bolsters and bogies and be ready to run, although will still need detail, paint and lettering to fully complete.
Still working a couple of wagons at the moment, but for now just a picture of another OO model I bought while on another trip to Kendal at the weekend for conversion.
I am showing this completely 'before' image because of a discovery I made...
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The model is a Hornby rib side van. This is the same as one I have bought previously and is in the process of being converted - purple and white body in the first image on this page, wagon second from left on second row.
As for other OO body conversion I have done I started this earlier rib side van by basically sawing it in half. The exact method of this operation varies from wagon to wagon dependant on two things, first the actual construction, and secondly whether then end are good to reuse or will be cut away and discarded.
However I noticed something on this body that I presumably did not when starting work on the previous one - and that was when I checked the measurments and found that it was only a scale 7 feet. As my fleet already includes several wagons over 6' this means I will be able to build this one without needing to cut up the body.
I do like these conversions you are doing. I have done a few myself.
There are indeed some standard gauge items that are already the right width for 009 use.
For example the Modelscene BR ConFlat container part number 5010. All that needs is a repaint and some 009 bogies.
However, I think this recently went out of production.
Here is my one that is on bogies each made using two Egger two wheel bogies:
Brian,
Thanks for the heads up on the containers.
I had been thinking about a totally freelance container wagon. My first thoughts were for containers about 10' long, so that I could get 2 per wagon. As I was thinking that available containers would be too wide that would mean that I would need to scratch build them. However, if these containers are narrow enough as is then it may be better to design a wagon to carry just one. Just checked and some suppliers still do have them in stock.
As I am typing this I am wondering how wide the shorter containers are (e.g. the Birds Eye livereried ones). I had also assumed these would be too wide, but if not then they could fit 2 per wagon as an alternative arrangement.
The short containers were 7'6" long by 7'0" wide
Drawings are on the Barrowmore site
http://www.barrowmoremrg.co.uk/BRBDocuments/BRContainerIssueB.pdf
Hope this helps
Still working on adding and detailing the ends on my Bachmann N gauge body conversion, but just noticed I had not added this update for my Dapol Interfrigo kit conversion.
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This is not the chassis - this wagon is the right way up! Many years ago I converted one of these, at full length, to HOn30 and did not need to do this step. However the kit I used here had quite badly warped sides out of the packaging. Adding the sides to the chassis straightened the lower edges, but the upper still loooked a bit too wavy to make adding the roof easy, so I added what is in effect a false roof hopeful that this would bring everything back in line. Fortunately it seems to have done the trick.
I am planning to do extra detailing on the doors on this kit. As bought the hinges are oversized to allow the doors to open and close. As I do not want this feature I plan to replace the plastic hinge bars with brass or steel rod, and also replace the oversized hinges with nearer to scale items.
A little more progress on a couple of wagons
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Finally got the ends on the Bachmann 40' gondola conversion. At the moment these are just plain ends, the detailing will come later. The trick bit here was to get the upper framing to match up to that on the sides. I had thought to add this from microstrip, but when I checked I did not have any in a suitable size so just cut some thin strips from .020" sheet. I added these to the ends that I had cut slightly overwidth then, when the solvent had dried, used wet & dry to trim them to exact width to fit between the ends.
Next step will be adding half round strip - possibly 3 per end - for the same look as the ends I removed to widen the body.
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On the GW van conversion - the ends were already adjusted to width and glued, all that was done here was to redo the radius at the top which had been made too pointed during the narrowing process.
The shape of the rear of the sides, which were thicker behind the doors, looked to complicate the process of getting all the pieces together straight and square. I decided the best way would be an .080" strip along the lower edge, which would be attached only to the wider parts and depend on the strength of the thicker strip to keep everything straight.
With this, when I do assemble the sides and ends - using extra square cut pieces to hold the joints square - I should then be able to drop a floor section into each end so that it will just sit on this strip, which will then support the bolsters.
Just a little progress on the bachmann 40' composite conversion
(https://www.neisar.co.uk/images_OO9/class_b/wagon_011/img_005.jpg)
Have now completed the ends. Difficult to really see in the grab from a mobile, but the ends which had previously been plain sheet have now been detailed to represnt a pressed steel end. Did this using 3 strips of half round rod at each end. By far the hardest bit here was getting everything level and even with a consistent gap beween each half round strip.
One other purchase I made in readiness for a future wagon as discussed earlier
(https://www.neisar.co.uk/images_OO9/class_b/wagon_x/img_008.jpg)
Was passing through York and could not resist a stop off at Monk Bar models. These were just an impulse purchase ready for a future container wagon. The BR livery will go, but the basic container will not be altered.
I have two thoughts on how I will build these wagons.
Either I could built a flat wagon - wood or steel - and use it to carry one or two containers.
However, until I have checked it, I am not sure what the overall height of this would be, although I think it would be taller than any of my vans.
Hence the alternative, and the reason I bought short containers rather than long, is to build a drop centre wagon to carry just one container. I would see this as something along the lines of the WD drop centre wagon, but with altered proportions to allow the container to fit into the well.
Have you thought about looking at what the IoMR did when it used containers for a short time in the 1960's?
Thanks for the heads up on that. Had not seen those before.
I had been considering all steel construction as an alternative to composite with wood sides. Having seen the photo now I can see how building it this way would create an overall narrower wagon, as the container would be the widest part rather that needing the wagon structure outside of this. As I am already close to my maximum loading gauge I think this may be a better way to go.
A bit more progress from a while ago, although I have only just got round to taking the photos. I do keep jumping from wagon to wagon rather than getting the earlier ones completed, however I have just recently taken a delivery of more Peco bogies - I had run down my stock - so can hopefully complete more to a runable state soon.
(https://www.neisar.co.uk/images_OO9/class_b/wagon_009/img_003.jpg)
This is just a floor added to the Triang van conversion, for which I had prepared the side earlier. I plan to create new ends for this van from 2mm scribed sheet, which will match the planking on the van sides.
(https://www.neisar.co.uk/images_OO9/class_b/wagon_019/img_002.jpg)
Jumping in here staring a new model. Removing the chassis was simply a case of freeing the clips, and then removing these clips from the body (so although I did it carefully, there was no real worry if the clips had broken).
For the chassis I first added the .080" square strip along the lower edge. As before, I used square strip because it holds its shape better that .080" x .040" would. Also, it made the next stage more forgiving.
That stage was to add sub floors to each end, just long enough to be able to support the bolsters, which sat on top of the full length strips. These were cut to be good fit for the width of the wagon, and will then rely on being well glued down to ensure they do not start separating years down the line.
The large gap in the floor will later be used to support weight for the wagon - which is another topic;
I subscribe to the theory that good operation is derived from having all wagons similarly weighted (measured in oz per inch), and also that heavy stock will usually track better.
The only caveat to this is that making the stock too heavy may mean that the trains will not run without the loco slipping.
Now, as a small shunting layout, trains length should not be long, and there will be no gradients, both of which are positives. However a negative is that, although I do not know for definate I will use them, I have several Kato 8 wheel chassis (11-105/6/7), and these are 1 axle drive and known for low pulling power. I think running some pulling tests will be needed, once I have sufficent wagons avaialble to prove things either way.
I have progressed two more wagons, but the glue is still drying so no photos as yet. What I also did was build some bolsters in advance ready for use on other wagons. I realised that I had not until now photographed any of these, other than when already on the wagons, so I thought I would do so just to show how easy they are.
These are bolsters for mounting the Peco bogies, which include the couplers. It does of course cost to buy them in the first place, but having done that they will then just clip into place if you have built the bolsters correctly.
(https://www.neisar.co.uk/images_OO9/class_b/wagon_x/img_009.jpg)
Sometime you have a choice of the chassis design, but other times you need to work with what you have. This design of bolster is for wagons where the chassis base is higher than the headstocks by 0.080" - 0.120" (I prefer the higher value becuase I like wagons to ride low), or for any wagon where the gap is less but you do not want to cut holes in the floor, i.e. an open wagon where you do not want to be forced to run it permanently loaded.
The Peco instructions state that the bolster needs a 4mm hole through a 0.060" strip, and a clearance of 0.040" to clear the clip on the mounting pin (units mixed to fall in line with the supllies and tools I use!).
For the bolster I use 0.060 x 0.276" strip, although it would be equally possible to cut a strip from 0.060" sheet. The strip is around 6.5mm wide, so the 4mm hole needs to be drill exactly central to ensure it is not to close to the side for comfort. Yes, I have reject some I started, but no great investment in time or materials to turn back at this stage if the first attempt does not look good.
To drill the hole I have 1mm, 2mm, 3mm and 4mm drills all ready in pin chucks and rill the hole progressively using all 4. This can still raise a slight burr around the hole which should be cleared off to ensure trouble free operation.
The packing at the ends can be anything suitable. I used 0.040 x 0.080 strip becuase I had it to hand, although pieces cut from sheet would work equally well.
And that is it. Glue these to the underframe ensuring they are the correct distance from the end for the wagon spacing you prefer, leave long enough for the glue to dry, clip in the bogies and onto the layout...
Where the chassis base is lower, and the wagon floor can be cut, the bolsters can be just the drilled strip without the spacers at the ends. These will then need holes making in the wagon floor to clear the mounting clip. A 6mm hols would be possible, but I usually just cut out a rough square - the wagons you can do this to are not the ones where this will be visible. See photos of the cattle wagon conversion on page 1 of this thread for an example of this method.
Slow and steady progress. I have done a bit more, but no photos yet so that will be a future update.
For now this is the GW van conversion.
(https://www.neisar.co.uk/images_OO9/class_b/wagon_010/img_004.jpg)
After separating what had originally been a built up body and narrowing the ends I was basically left with a kit, minus the floor.
Here I started with what may well have been the recommended method of assembling the kit - joining pairs of sides and ends. To ensure these stayed at 90 degrees to each other until dry I added 0.080" strip to help.
(https://www.neisar.co.uk/images_OO9/class_b/wagon_010/img_005.jpg)
I had a decision to make as to whether or not to create a floor and assemble the sides round this, but decided it would be easier to join the side/end pairs, let them dry, then measure the inner width to work out the floor width needed. Because I had added 0.080" strip to the bottom of the sides this did not need to be absolutelty perfect, just so long as the was enough overlap to get a good strong joint.
I deliberately made the floor short, partly because it was easier! but mainly to enusre that when the roof was later added it would have no chance to create a sealed box to trap the solvent fumes.
This wagon needs a bit more work on the underframe - I plan to add U channel below the sides to represent a steel chassis, after which just bolters and bogies to be a runnable wagon (although still needing weight, roof, details, paint, letting, weathering etc to be really finished!)
I have been away so not much progress, but here is a wagon made useable earlier that I have only just got round to processing the photos for.
This is the Bachmann composite gondola conversion, which had all the main bodwork complete at the last update, but still needed running gear
(https://www.neisar.co.uk/images_OO9/class_b/wagon_011/img_006.jpg)
Because this wagon was designed from the outset to ride lower than the previous Bachmann conversion from the all steel body I have used bolsters without the 0.040" spacers. The body having been designed to leave a deliberate gap between the two sides of the orginal floor to clear the mounting clip when the bogies are clipped in place.
(https://www.neisar.co.uk/images_OO9/class_b/wagon_011/img_007.jpg)
And here is the wagon with the bogies. Note to self: get a decent photo plank built to show wagons when they are able to sit on the track!
Not much more to do to complete this other than vac pipes and paint. If I was building a 'normal' layout I would probably paint and letter it the same as the other low side open wagons I have built so they appeared to all be part of one fleet - but as shunting layouts work better when all stock is distinctive, rather that just different numbers on the same livery, I expect to select a different livery and possibly lettering.
Progress on a few more wagons last week. Here are photos of the first of these
This is the GW kit conversion, which has progressed to be able to run on the layout (or will be able to when I get round to building one...)
(https://www.neisar.co.uk/images_OO9/class_b/wagon_010/img_006.jpg)
To finish the visible chassis I added strip to represent a steel underframe. I selected this such that it matched the height of the headstocks when assembled, and fortunately I had some in stock for the correct size - 0.0120" if I remember correctly.
(https://www.neisar.co.uk/images_OO9/class_b/wagon_010/img_007.jpg)
Becuase of the way this wagon and its chassis were build up I needed to build bolsters with more than my usual depth of packing to get the correct ride height. Fortunately none of this is visible when the wagon is on the track
(https://www.neisar.co.uk/images_OO9/class_b/wagon_010/img_008.jpg)
And finally with the bogies clipped on and stood on the track.
The elephant in the room here - of should that be in the picture - is that this van does not yet have a roof. Currently none of mine do, except those where this is unaltered from the base model as in the Heinz van a few posts back. None even have the supports yet ready for the roof. This is until I decide on the weight per wagon. This just needs a haulage test to see what works, but I have been putting of for two reasons.
Firstly was the realisation that even though my layout will have no gradients and no prolonged curves it would still not be a full test just using a length of track. To accurately test haulage capacity would need pointwork to pull the train through - one of my layouts could see a train running through the curved route of 4 points.
Second reason, and the real delay, is that I would like to try this also with a Kato 8 wheel chassis - a chassis not known for its pulling power. I have no definate plans for these, but I do have a few, and at least one kit designed to use one, so I want to check them to see if they are feasible for use. I need to dig these out from my stash before I can try this, and I know they are buried deep!
The other of my wagons that saw more significant progress was the Hornby rib side van conversion.
You may remember from an earlier post that this turned into one of the simpler OO body conversions when I realised how narrow it was, so narrow in fact that it fit within my narrow gauge loading gauge without needing to be narrowed.
(https://www.neisar.co.uk/images_OO9/class_b/wagon_019/img_003.jpg)
Here we see an example of do as I say, not as I do! I realised later in the build that I needed to add bolsters without packing to get the wagon to ride as low as possible (a choice of mine, others my prefer them to ride a little higher). Had I planned ahead better durng the construction I could have built it with a higher floor, but as it was I needed to cut holes in the floor to clear the bogie mounting pins.
(https://www.neisar.co.uk/images_OO9/class_b/wagon_019/img_004.jpg)
And finally, after fitting bolsters, here it is with bogies and on the track.
As this is stock for a shunting layout I am planning on leaving the wagon in Heinz livery - however I still plan to do something about the roof. I may choose lighter grey or a dark grey (to look like weathered black) because I think the overall green do look a bit too toy like.
It has been some time since I updated this thread due to other distractions and time away, however I have not been totally idle on the workbench so I do have things ready to show.
At least one of the things I have done will need a proper camera to photograph, rather than a phone, so I will show that soon.
For now, to keep the thread going, here are two more 'victims' for conversion I have just bought. I got these from a model shop I found on the main street in Hythe in Kent. This shop sold mainly second hand and had drawers full of wagons in addition to locos, buildings, road vehicles etc and I recommend a visit if you are in the area.
(https://www.neisar.co.uk/images_OO9/class_b/wagon_x/img_010.jpg)
The van is the same body as the Heinz van on the previous update, so should be a quick conversion, and will be a good candidate for my shunting layout which will work best with distinctly different wagons.
The mineral wagon is not one I have tried before, but it is the correct length for my fleet and I am hopeful that being black (picked this specially for that reason) I can keep the livery intact on the sides whilst beng able to paint the ends to cover the cuts needed to narrow the body.
This (plus one other new wagon I have not shown yet) brings the count of wagons I am working on to 21, for a layout I have not yet started. This just shows how I do prefer building wagons to actually getting down to building a layout!
As I have 3 possible layout plans I can manage to justify this to myself by claiming that I am planning to create stock for all 3 layouts. Due to the method of operation each layout would benefit from a different mix of rolling stock.
To prevent this becoming an essay, or a layout thread, the differing needs for these layout, which I will simply label A, B & C, are;
A - 5 or 8 wagons, depending on the size built. Generic sidings so any wagon types acceptable, the more visual different the better
B - 6 wagons. Sidings against loading doors or platforms. Best served with all vans, so similar in body style but different in color/livery
C - 6 wagons. 3 sidings with specific purposes, so needs two groups of the same 3 wagon types, e.g. van, tank car, cattle wagon with each group made up of wagons of the same colour, again for easy visual differenciation when operating the layout.
Finally details of something currently on my workbench. This is a kit I am building, a Chivers RC812 - Round End Bogie Open Wagon.
This is a good kit and very qiuck to assemble. The parts are clean and crisp, with only the lightest of flash on the truss roads and turnbuckles, which took no more than a scrape with edge of a knife blade to remove.
Does this mean I am going to build something by following the instructions to the letter? Well, nearly, but not quite as you will see.
(https://www.neisar.co.uk/images_OO9/class_b/wagon_020/img_001.jpg)
The kit is supplied with bogies but without wheels or couplers - this is clearly indicated before purchase. Because of this, and that all my other stock for this layout uses Peco bogies, I decided to keep the Chivers bogies for another model and stick with my standard.
This then was the one deviation from the instructions. I did not photogragh the parts before I started, but the slightly rough area to each end of the underside of the floor is where I removed the Chivers bogie mounting points to make way for my standard bolsters.
(https://www.neisar.co.uk/images_OO9/class_b/wagon_020/img_002.jpg)
And very quickly the body was complete.
This still needs bolsters adding, but no rush there as I need to order some more bogies first as I have just used the last of my stock.
I've not long built one of those (and the 'straight end' version) myself. They go together well and make nice wagons.
When it comes to building the bogies from the kit it will pay you to gently dress the square ends of the bogie stretchers with a file. On all of these that have passed across my bench (probably a dozen or more!) there seems to be a very minor mismatch in the mould and it just needs a couple of gentle strokes with a file to make them square so that they fit neatly into the square socket in the bogie sides, and that these are square to the bogie pivot axis.
Back on page 2 of this thread I showed a wagon that I had purchased as a body only which had one roof ventilator missing.
At the time I requested if anyone knew where I might get another, and did recieve some suggestions. However I did not do anything about it at the time because I was getting another thought in my mind.
(https://www.neisar.co.uk/images_OO9/class_b/wagon_013/img_003.jpg)
I had been putting together a 3d model for some other models to print using Shapeways (all narrow gauge, but definately not 009, although I may show them when they are painted), and I thought that whilst preparing those I would try adding some ventilators - adding extra small details to an exiting print costs practically nothing providing all parts are sprued together.
I measured up the one currently on the model and tried to get it as close as I could. The print they were added to was for Frosted Ultra Detail which is the second best quality so no problems with fine details being obscured.
Having taken time to get a qualiry camera on the job, rather than my usual fallback of a phone, I can now see that the roof does need a little touch up with some matching paint!
I have made a start on one of my latest purchases, the Hornby Red Arrows van.
This will be similar to the Heinz van just a few posts up. But not identical...
(https://www.neisar.co.uk/images_OO9/class_b/wagon_021/img_002.jpg)
The two other Hornby vans I have - the Heinz above, plus one that I cut down to little more than the sides - were all hollow inside. I had expected this to be the same, but it has these supports. As you would expect they are in the way.
Since taking the photo I have cut these back. I first tried with a knife. That was too slow so I switched to a razor saw which I ran down close to the body side and cut deep - need these well out of the way so that I can get my fingers in later to attach the part floor sections. Then just a light score with a knife across the support near to the botttom of the cut allowed the upper parts to be snapped off.
Then just a clean up back to the body side enough to allow .120" of strip along the lower edge of the side to be fitted later.
Picking up on a wagon that has not seen any activity in a while, the Liliput van conversion.
When making this post I realised that all the parts in the photo were showing only the back. As the previous posts for this wagon are on a previous page I am repeating the last image here for better context.
(https://forum.009society.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.neisar.co.uk%2Fimages_OO9%2Fclass_b%2Fwagon_014%2Fimg_002.jpg&hash=70886c44d4c5b8789c4d16d82d93f3cced333012)
And the following image is where progress is at currently
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On the left are the sides to which I have added .120" depth of strip to the bottom to support the floor.
In the middle is the floor cut from .030". This thickness will allow some flex when the sides are attached, however once the ends are also in place the body will be solid.
On the right I have tried an experiment with the ends. Due to the corrugations I decided that they would be tricky to mark and cut to width - by taking a slice from each side - when working from the front. So, when I was cutting the floor I marked and initially cut it over length before separating the floor out from the middle. This left me extra lengths which were exactly the same width as the floor. By glueing these to the back of the sides I am hopefull that these will provide a guide for the knife and for sanding to get the ends to the exact width to be able to form a nice square body. Watch this space to find out if this works...
I am away from my workbench for the week because my work room has become a guest room. This update brings me up to date with where I was before 'eviction'.
Firstly the Liliput van shown in the last update. No photos for this one this time, but in the last post I showed how I had attached plasticard cut to the width of the chassis - and therefore the required width of the ends - as a knife guide for cutting. I can report that this method was a sucess and I now one well trimmed end, with the other to complete when I am back.
And now what to do if you already have several wagons partly built - well, start another one of course!
This is a Dapol gunpowder van. I bought 3 of these some time ago with the plan of cutting and extending them into a long van with a double set of doors each side, similar in length to an L&B 8 ton van. This never got progressed so I decided to use them for this fleet. Here they will be extended, but not by quite so much.
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On the left are 2 sides with the end posts trimmed back ready for joining.
Centre are the ends from a second body. The near one is already cut back to one panel ready for joining to the main sides to give 3 panels either side of the door, although the end does still need removing and cutting down. The second end is still awaiting the same treatment.
To the right are the left over doors. These will be saved for another model, for which I can scratch build the sides rather than try cut down 2 more bodies.
Just need to wait now until I can have my work room back...
And yet another new wagon. This is a Parkside OO LNER grain wagon kit that I dug out recently. I had remembered that I had it, and because I like the wagon I had been planning on building it standard gauge as a static model on a layout with a SG interchange
(https://forum.009society.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.neisar.co.uk%2Fimages_OO9%2Fclass_b%2Fwagon_024%2Fimg_001.jpg&hash=ce73578d3f2e34c2afdf43d18c952dd427808676)
However, from this photo of all the parts you can see the problem - no chassis! Not sure where this would have gone as I have has the kit for years, and as the body is well within the length range for my fleet the decision was made - 009 it is.
From the parts shown here I plan to use the sides as is.
I am thinking of not using the ends at all - which would need narrowing if used - and just build them from scribed sheet and L channel. In the meantime I will keep the original ends for reference.
As for the hopper, the jury is out on that until I get to that point in the build. I may cut down the parts here. On the other hand, it may be easier to just build it from scratch to exactly fit the space available.
Finally the roof. Normal I do not plan to use these, but as this has the hatches moulded in I may try and cut this down and use it. If it does not work out then I can just scratchbuild one instead.
(https://forum.009society.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.neisar.co.uk%2Fimages_OO9%2Fclass_b%2Fwagon_024%2Fimg_002.jpg&hash=16ea0d2138f7b8e1d18cf620dbae27a886167a20)
And the progress so far. As I have been doing for other vans I cut the floor significanly over length so as to have a long strip of a consistent width. The floor was cut from the centre of this and the remainer cut up for the supports you see here to keep the body square, and also for use in cutting the ends - by laminating the strip to scribed sheet and then trimming that back to the width I should get easily to ends that are square and should need nothing more that a light file to be an exact fit.
Some more wagons that I worked on during the last workbench session
(https://forum.009society.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.neisar.co.uk%2Fimages_OO9%2Fclass_b%2Fwagon_021%2Fimg_003.jpg&hash=661fd9473ea05cc7d4e0c29ea8ad992b64af6a2e)
I added the chassis to this van. Because I had previously done a conversion using an identical body (Heinz van 4 posts above), this job simply became one of following the proven method from last time. Or at least nearly followed, I actually learned from the mistake I made last time and increased the floor height meaning I did not have to cut holes in it this time.
(https://forum.009society.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.neisar.co.uk%2Fimages_OO9%2Fclass_b%2Fwagon_016%2Fimg_002.jpg&hash=bda4735d6d333fc65485e9a26e68a7d9800e1279)
This is not a nearly complete wagon, just the tank place on to of the floor to see how it will look.
For the floor this is simply planked sheet laminated to .030" plain sheet. I had originally considered making the decking full width, however decided against this. Although I know there were narrow gauge wagons build like this I could not shake the feeling that doing it that way looked more American than British (that was the way I had previously build a HOn30 tank car using an N gauge tank body). Instead I made the floor narrower, and will then surround it with low frameing, similar to a conflat wagon.
In an alteration to what would be my normal sequence of construction I plan to paint the planking before going any further. I had previously worked out a good method to represent unpainted and weathered wood using enamels, but now want to try this with acrylics, so not sure if I will need to vary the technique to make it work. Either way I know it is easier when you can easily make brush strokes in the direction of the grain, hence when there is the option of leaving the framing off until later then I plan to take it.
Quote from: NeilMac on November 14, 2022, 16:26
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This is not a nearly complete wagon, just the tank place on to of the floor to see how it will look.
If you ever want to add the ladders and platform handrails to this Egger-bahn wagon tank body that was made for them by Rokal here is a link to an e-bay seller that makes replica metal ladders. However, these are TT 3mm scale just as were the ones on the Egger-bahn wagons:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/324286257281
Thanks for the info on the ladders Brian, but I do have all the original fittings. These were either already separate in the box, or else they separated when I removed the body, so are available for refitting when the wagon is complete.
A little bit more progress on a few wagons.
Firstly I have added bolsters to the Red Arrows van. Did not take another photo, as it would not have been much different to the last one shown when the chassis was completed. This wagon is now almost ready to go, but must wait a delivery of bogies which I already have on order.
Two other wagons with progress
(https://forum.009society.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.neisar.co.uk%2Fimages_OO9%2Fclass_b%2Fwagon_014%2Fimg_004.jpg&hash=680339808e870f5178fd0bb5b8ca66bb39594c3b)
Firstly the Liliput van conversion. This now has the sides and floor attached. Also show are the ends which I have now cut down to the correct width. These are currently fractionally too wide as cut, which is good because I can sand them down to an exact fit.
The radius at the top of the ends still needs to be redone to match the curve of the narrower roof.
(https://forum.009society.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.neisar.co.uk%2Fimages_OO9%2Fclass_b%2Fwagon_022%2Fimg_002.jpg&hash=9f3623d314d5a77e7091eef694dd65ab0ecd5a05)
And this is the gunpowder van conversion, or should that be vans as this needed two bodies. Not a lot left of what I started with, and it took some time to get here because of the number of cuts needed, including removing the ends and the built in chassis.
Now I have it to this stage next will be to join the sides and assemble them with a floor. Hopefully from this stage that will not take too long.
Thinking ahead I am considering finishing this one in yellow with Blue Circle lettering, which will be well weathered.
Have been getting behind (again!) with photographing what is on my bench. Nearly caught up now, so here is some of the progress I have made
(https://forum.009society.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.neisar.co.uk%2Fimages_OO9%2Fclass_b%2Fwagon_022%2Fimg_003.jpg&hash=6e1bb484fcccc09a8b08abf14efb32edae9c58e9)
A little more on the steel van conversion. Here I have assembled the sides from the separate parts seen in a previous update. Fortunately these seem to have gone together OK, otherwise the whole project would have stalled here. Since taking the photo I have removed the narrow floor sections seen here, beacuse the were getting in the way, and added a 0.080" strip along the bottom ready for a floor. I have also started work on the ends.
(https://forum.009society.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.neisar.co.uk%2Fimages_OO9%2Fclass_b%2Fwagon_020%2Fimg_003.jpg&hash=c0d8426bdc8e71d09253dc4af06a45636b8cc4d6)
Another wagon is the Chivers kit. From a previous post you may remember that I am using the Peco bogies for this rather than the Chivers ones. Here the bolsters are fitted. These are different to those I have built before. Prevoiusly I had used .060 x .250 strip. This was trick to use because .250 is the widest I could get, which makes it essential to get the 4mm hole dead cenral fore-aft otherwise it will be too close to edge for strength. Here I have just cut a wider strip from .060 sheet, which I have plenty of.
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And finally, with the bogies fitted, a usable wagon. Now just needs weight, paint and vac. pipes to be fully complete.
To bring the second Hornby van conversion up to date
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This was the last thing to do to get a running model, add my standard design of bolsters to the chassis. These bolsters were built whilst I still had stock of 0.250 strip, and it shows here how critical the drilling need to be to ensure the hole does not get too close to the side.
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And here are the two Hornby conversions together. The Red Arrows van just needs a tidy up of the dark marks at the top of the sides. The Heinz one is due have the roof painted dark grey, or if not then some heavy weathering.
What I did discover putting these two on the track for their photo is how trick it is to rail them now I have take such pains to get the riding low to the track. Partly made worse by them being the widest wagon in my fleet.
Either way I need to ensure in future that my puterona is always to hand, and also any layout I build will need space to be able to use one - or even have one built in to the track plan.
I think this will be enough for conversions of this type of van. Even though they are really easy to do, and there are other liveries out there, I do not really want a complete roster of all the same kind of van.
Text redone in next post. I must have hit quote, not modify, when trying to tidy up my spellings..
Quote from: NeilMac on December 19, 2022, 16:12
Just a couple of quick updates
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This is the LNER grain wagon conversion. As mentioned in an earlier post I had planned to reuse the roof on this model, due to all the hatch detail being already in place. I had been uncertain if this would work, not being sure if I could hold a ruler afainst the curved surface to get a clean straight cut. In the end it worked out easy, with roof upside down and the rule within the curve, and 3 cuts had the excess material removed from the edges.
One of the ends is also show just sat loosely in place. This still needs some trimming, and will get added T or L channel detail to match the rest of the wagon.
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On the Lilliput van I have got the ends to the correct width. here they are just resting in place. Although there is still a clear need to radius the tops correctly for the cut down body this does show how the end will fit between the sides when it is assembled.
Neil have a look at the Hattons site . They do Dapol body spares ,and I have done conversions of the GWR fruit van that have come out well ,plenty of detail , might sought you .
Alan
Thanks Alan. I have actually already used several Dapol bodies, as they are such good value compare to buying r-t-r stock to cut up. On this thread I have conversions of the Dapol Grampus, 9 plank open and steel van. Separate to the stock in this thread I have also converted a fruit D which I left full length, although narrowed, to create an impressively large vehicle.
Just one update. Not the most exciting, but it is progress, and it will be the last I can make for a while. It is Christmas and my workroom - surely the correct term from the room where my workbench is located - has reverted to a double guest bedroom for the next two weeks.
I have got one or two things to look at over this time, and layout details to plan out, but with the shed not really feasible in this temperature there will be no messy construction taking place.
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My solitary update is attaching the sides to the floor on the steel van.
After a long delay I finally got back to my workbench.
In the meantime, so as not to be completely unproductive, I had busied myself designing some models for 3D printing. Smaller than the wagons currently in this thread, these were HOn30 US wagons, but smaller than most US wagons. Think of something in the style of - for those that know them - Chivers On30 14' boxcars, but built in HO. All still on screen for now, so no photos to show. Still waiting a delivery of trucks so that I can measure the actual items to ensure that the chassis parts are sized correctly. However I do have ideas for numerous body styles, some being all 3D prints, others will be 3D printed chassis plus scratch built or kit/rtr conversion bodies.
The first actual workbench activity I did was to fit and attach the ends to the grain wagon conversion. Did not photograph this for now, because it look little different to how it did 4 posts up, where the ends were just loosely set in place
The next wagon I picked up to work on was not part of the stock for the shunting layout, as all the others so far in this thread have been, being too long to fit the standards for those.
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This is a Dapol fruit D which is full length as bought, but narrowed. The other end of this wagon had already been completed, but that was done by trimming down the centre section I cut out to fill the gap. This was not easy due to the thickness of the plastic used. Here I decided to fill the gap with 1mm planked sheet, later backed with .030" plain sheet. Much easier to cut, and once painted there should be no clue that it was not part of the original body.
Tasks still to do here include sorting out the radius on the ends, and then adding a roof.
Something else that I dug out of storage, this is a Minitrix wagon that I had previously started converting to HOn30.
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In US guise I had added a roofwalk and side ladders, but not done much more that seen here. The only task I have done so far is to remove all these.
In OO I will have the same task as I was expecting in HO, and that is coming up with a livery suggesting a load that is very dense, or else expenive enough to only ship small amounts, so as to justify the low height.
Picking this thread up after being quiet for some time. This covers the stock I am building for a shunting layout (which has got out of hand in that the layout needs 8 wagons to operate, but I have just started work on the 30th!), and also HOn30 rolling stock for another layout which will be seen in later updates.
The first wagon I have continued work on is a Chivers RC815.
(https://forum.009society.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.neisar.co.uk%2Fimages_OO9%2Fclass_b%2Fwagon_028%2Fimg_001.jpg&hash=3a99ca13c94049e42b57df98bbecd8f897195d0e)
All that remained to do to complete the body was to attach the second side and end. Whilst this went easily with the Chivers wooded open and wooden van kits this one fought back in that the floor was too wide to allow the side to fit. On closer inspection I think this was down to a groove in the side for the floor to fit it that was too narrow to allow this. A combination of both narrowing and thining the floor did in the end get it all to fit.
(https://forum.009society.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.neisar.co.uk%2Fimages_OO9%2Fclass_b%2Fwagon_028%2Fimg_002.jpg&hash=7822add1935906cd599749b18e364abf8546705c)
This show an experiment I have tried on this kit. On posts higher up this thread you can see several photos of the bolsters I make using 0.060" and 0.040" strip drilled 4mm, but here I have tried 3d prining the bolsters
NB: I previously explained why I was not using the Chivers bogies which would then not have needed these bolsters - this was not a criticism of these, but just a desire to keep the trucks and couplers in use consistent across all my wagons.
I was going to show the wagon above mounted on its bogies and able to run on the layout, although not fininshed, but I realised I had not got round to photographing it!
So for now I will show one of the wagons - or should that be cars - from the other series I am building.
These are HOn30 and, in readiness again for a shunting layout, will all be built to a length of 16'
Proportion wise this will put them similar to the Chivers On30 short cars, although they are actually 14' so slightly shorter.
These wagons will be partly scratch built or conversions of standard gauge rolling stock. However, in a new direction for me, some will have fully 3d printed bodies.
The first car I am showing is actually a combination of a conversion and 3d printing. This is being built in a similar style to a car that I built several years ago using an Atlas N gauge body, but in this case I am using an old Iberten body.
The first image is the N gauge wagon I started with.
(https://www.neisar.co.uk/images_OO9/class_c/wagon_003/img_001.jpg)
Here is the body removed from the chassis and with all surplus parts removed. This included the side discharge shutes because I am planning the car to be centre discharge
(https://www.neisar.co.uk/images_OO9/class_c/wagon_003/img_002.jpg)
Finally on its 3d printed chassis.
This probably does not show up too well, being as it is printed in black resin, although this will have no negative effect once the model is painted.
A bit more tidy up on the body is still needed, including either adding hand wheels to the side or else further trimming of the bosses around the holes where the removed detail parts were clipped in.
(https://www.neisar.co.uk/images_OO9/class_c/wagon_003/img_003.jpg)
Picking this up again after a long quiet time. I am starting with the wagon bodies and kit parts that I bought from Narrow Gauge North this year.
I have started with a HOe wagon body bought as a body only. I am not sure who the manafacturer was, but I think it is a fairly common wagon.
(https://www.neisar.co.uk/images_OO9/class_b/wagon_039/img_001.jpg)
The first problem for me was the door being open. That would be great to show a partial load inside, but for my needs I really wanted the doors closed.
Fortunately the one open door was not solidly attached, so was quite easy to pop it off and glue it back in closed position.
(https://www.neisar.co.uk/images_OO9/class_b/wagon_039/img_002.jpg)
The next problem was that the model was designed for bogies that I do not have, as seen here
(https://www.neisar.co.uk/images_OO9/class_b/wagon_039/img_003.jpg)
As I am planning to use my standard Peco bogies I cut out all traces of the original bolster to allow a wider version of my standard bolster to be fitted.
(https://www.neisar.co.uk/images_OO9/class_b/wagon_039/img_004.jpg)
From here it should be simple to get the bolsters fitted and the bogies attached, leaving only a repaint, lettering and weathering to complete.
QuoteI have started with a HOe wagon body bought as a body only. I am not sure who the manafacturer was, but I think it is a fairly common wagon.
I can't be certain but it looks to me like one of the Maquette / Meridian Pershing 'box cars' kits or prototypes that were supplied to the US army for use on the western front during WW1.
If it is then I'm fairly sure they were done to 4 mm scale (rather than 3.5 mm for H0e) - the French tend to use 009 for their modelling of WW1 narrow gauge as it's closer to the 'correct' gauge of 600mm whereas H0e scale up to 760mm or thereabouts (it's actually 783)...
Quote from: JulienW on September 27, 2025, 20:42I can't be certain but it looks to me like one of the Maquette / Meridian Pershing 'box cars' kits or prototypes that were supplied to the US army for use on the western front during WW1.
Thanks for that Julien.
The actual scale does not bother me as I was just selecting by size, although in truth it is still smaller than many of the vans I already have, but it is good to know the source of what I am starting with.
Finally got the photos taken for the final steps to get a rolling model.
The job this time was to get the bolsters attached - which is where my carefully planned sequence of events did quite work out. When I tried the bolters with bogies attached for fit I realised that the Peco bogies with couplers that I am using needed the pivot points to be much further in than the ones the chassis had been designed for. This meant that instead of the extra wide bogies covering the hole I had made, they would only be half way across.
I also noted that the centre sills I had left were too high, and caught the wheels when the bogie turned.
So I needed to cut back more of the chassis, and then attach the bolsters on plasticard strip to be able to straddle the hole.
(https://www.neisar.co.uk/images_OO9/class_b/wagon_039/img_005.jpg)
And after all that I just needed to wait for the glue to dry then it was a quick job to attach the bogies.
Note to self: Get a photo plank built - far better than photographing the completed (although undetailed/painted/lettered/weathered) wagons on the cutting mat.
(https://www.neisar.co.uk/images_OO9/class_b/wagon_039/img_006.jpg)
Continuing to work through the selection of parts and bodies I bought from Narrow Gauge North.
When I first grabbed this off the table I hastily assumed that it was Hoe. Only later when looking closer did I notice the wheels were set to 12 mm gauge. With the overall width of the wagon, plus the fact it had had buffers it was clearly TT.
(https://www.neisar.co.uk/images_OO9/class_b/wagon_038/img_001.jpg)
The first thing was to quickly remove the original chassis. I then removed the raised end planks simply by rubbing the upturned body on a piece of wet and dry paper until everything was level.
(https://www.neisar.co.uk/images_OO9/class_b/wagon_038/img_002.jpg)
A little more progress on this wagon - which may be the last that I get to do for a while as I will be losing access to my work room again.
I had been planning on building the chassis completely from styrene strip. However I noticed that the existing chassis I removed had a good level of detail of steel solebars so I tried carefully removing the axleboxes and then cutting away the sides with a razor saw, which did work out well.
Fortunately I had some strip that exactly matched the height (0.125") so used this for the headstocks and then trimmed and fitted the solebars.
Finally, due to the design of the wagon body I was working with, I needed to add some packing to support the centre of the solebars which were unattached for most of their length.
(https://www.neisar.co.uk/images_OO9/class_b/wagon_038/img_003.jpg)
Now just needs the bolsters fitting to create a rolling wagon, but not sure when I will be able to get back to do that.
I finished this wagon over Christmas, except for painting, but am only now getting round to uploading it
Fitting the bolsters was extra effort on this wagon due to the shape of the floor which required a lot of trial and error packing to create somewhere level to attach them.
On this wagon I used some of the bolster that I had 3d printed, these being designed specifically for the Peco bogies.
Those were my second to last pair so will need to get some more printed, but I have created an improved design so hopefully the new ones will be easier to use.
(https://www.neisar.co.uk/images_OO9/class_b/wagon_038/img_004.jpg)
And the last task is the quickest but most satisfying one. After waiting for the glue to dry the bolster can be clipped on and the wagon can be run on the layout, although it still needs some weight adding to ensure reliable running over pointwork in a train.
(https://www.neisar.co.uk/images_OO9/class_b/wagon_038/img_005.jpg)
Another wagon on the workbench, and another from parts bought at last years Narrow Gauge North. I wonder if I can get all the parts/bodies etc I bought built up before I doubtless end up buying a load more this year?
So, what I am starting with this time. These are Triang TT-3 bodies which had been glued on to N gauge chassis. I will reveal later what I plan to do with these if it works out, because I really am not sure how well it will!
(https://www.neisar.co.uk/images_OO9/class_b/wagon_036/img_001.jpg)
The first job, after removing the chassis, was to remove the diagonal stripe which I did not want. The way Triang chose to make these bodies, presumably to simplify painting, was to mould a raised strip as part of the body.
My first attempt was to try and slice this away using an x-acto chisel blade. As can be seen this did not turn out the best because the corners kept digging in to the side leaving some very obvious deep gouges.
Fortunately the way I have planned things I should be able to hide this if the other wagon goes better.
(https://www.neisar.co.uk/images_OO9/class_b/wagon_036/img_003.jpg)
So, before attempting the same trick on the other body I took a large coarse file to the chisel blade and round of the corners. This was not easy on the harded steel of the blade, but I acheived enough to make a difference.
After taking and looking at the photo I noticed that the lower part of this diagonal needed a bit more work to remove, and have now done this.
(https://www.neisar.co.uk/images_OO9/class_b/wagon_036/img_004.jpg)
My updates are getting behind my activity again. Here is the current progress on this wagon.
The first image may give a clue as to what I had planned for this. Here I have cut both the bodies using a razor saw and following the panel lines to keep the cuts straight. Also here is how I was able to discard by previous poor effort to remove the diagonal stripe.
(https://www.neisar.co.uk/images_OO9/class_b/wagon_036/img_005.jpg)
And finally the plan made clear. The parts are joined here, but still need a little filling to tidy thing up, however I do seem to have got the body straight and level.
(https://www.neisar.co.uk/images_OO9/class_b/wagon_036/img_006.jpg)
After this the next job will be to add headstocks and solbars and then bolsters for my standard Peco bogies.
I suspect that even after filling some of the join will still show, especially on the base so will probably go straight for a coal load after paint and details. Watch this space to see if the decals I am planning to use will work.