Is there any reason why second hand N-Gauge open wagons couldn't be modified to run on 009?
Several of them seem to be very similar in dimensions to 009 ones, so a "quick" refit with Bemo or Greenwich couplings, lose some of the brakes and ladders etc that look a bit wrong and a repaint, would seem to give reasonable freelance models, or am I missing something?
The main issue is going to be the difference in scales, N being 2mm (or there about) to the foot and 00 being 4 mm to the foot. You would be right to remove ladders and the like which would look obviously under scale, but there are other things to consider, like the width of planks making up the sides of the wagon and those on the N scale models being too small (only an inch or so if scaled up,to full size), and the height of vans (and the doorways to get goods in and out).
I'm not saying it will not work, but put an N scale wagon against even a small 009 one and the differences will be obvious.
As an alternative suggestion why not use the chassis of the N scale wagons (if you can get them cheeply enough) and scratch build your own bodies from plasticard (styrene sheet)?
An open wagon is essentially a lidless box on wheels made up of 5 basic parts (floor, 2 sides, 2 ends) with vans being a little more complex in that you'd need to cut the top edge of the ends to a curve then curve some of the styrene sheet to match to make the roof but they are also boxes.
If you do go down the scratchbuilding route it's best to get a couple different thicknesses of plasticard/styrene sheet, say 30 or 40 thou (thousandths of an inch, 40 thou is essentially 1mm) to make the floors and 20 thou to make the sides/ends, with some 10 thou to make roofs.
You can get plastic sheet that has been embossed with plank lines (some of the better stuff can be found in the 'evergreen' range made in the US but reasonably easy to get over here), but given that the planks making up the floor tend to be wider (say 9 - 12") than those used to build the body (3-6") and the sheets themselves tend to be only available in the 40 thou thickness (which can make wagon sides look a bit fat) you may not want to go down the route of getting to much variety of materials.
That being said though as a sheet of plasticard/styrene is unlikely to set you back more than £5 for an A4 sized bit you'll get quite a number of body parts out of it, probably enough for quite a fleet of wagons!
It just needs a sharp craft knife (I use scalpels), a metal strait edge and something 'square' to make sure your right angles are 'right', and I'd suggest using one of the liquid styrene solvents over the goop in the tubes. Another tip to pass on is don't feel you need to use the first bit that you cut, because the material is so cheep it's better scrapping a wrong one and making a new bit to replace it tha ruining the whole model with a part that isn't square, or the wrong size...
Hope that helps.
A better bet is to look out for old Triang TT stock and use the bodies off them if you can get them cheap enough. Many of us have done that.
Hi Stephen - an interesting topic.
Regrettably, I sold all my TT stock years ago. As Hobby suggests, this would have now come in very handy for 009 !
At a show I picked up some N gauge chassis for just a few pounds to experiment with. I have only scratch built one wagon body so far - so, I'm no expert :
I used 3 x 3 mm strip wood for the floor, ends and sides. After making a quick design on graph paper to check sizes etc. I cut all the pieces to size and butt-glued them along their lengths. A couple of central vertical supports on the ends and same on the sides plus four diagonal braces completes the illusion.
Mods : The truck runs very nicely but will easily tip over if provoked ! I'm going to epoxy a metal washer under the chassis to add a bit of running weight. (I think the epoxy should completely cover the underside of the weight if you're planning to use Greenwich-style uncoupling). It looks a bit 'posh' for a quarry type of layout so, I'll probably dirty it up a bit.
Remember that most NG lines were constructed 'on-the-cheap' from whatever could be sourced locally, so pretty much anything goes design-wise...that's the beauty of 009 !
Dave
Apart from 'proper' plastic sheet today £5 a go we are surrounded by plastic in a wide variety of shapes and sizes, all of which ends up in landfill or the oceans. So you could try something like margarine tubs for sheet plastic, and score planks on at whatever distance you need with a sharp knife. Keep your eyes open for recyclable plastics!
A nice metal N gauge chassis will probably be a smooth runner already because of its weight, but as Dave says it's easy to add weight underneath (which will also improve stability).
Frugally yours,
David.
Quote from: JulienW on November 19, 2019, 09:21
... but there are other things to consider, like the width of planks making up the sides of the wagon ..
I agree, the ones I am looking at have metal sides, and the height of teh body is pretty much the same on of my 009 trucks, although rivets might look a bit weedy by comparison.
As an alternative suggestion why not use the chassis of the N scale wagons (if you can get them cheeply enough) and scratch build your own bodies from plasticard (styrene sheet)?
Thats a good idea, I hadn't considered that but there are some truly hideous models on eBay that could have salvageable chassis
If you do go down the scratchbuilding route it's best to get a couple different thicknesses of plasticard/styrene sheet, say 30 or 40 thou (thousandths of an inch, 40 thou is essentially 1mm) to make the floors and 20 thou to make the sides/ends, with some 10 thou to make roofs.
I already have suitable tools and a reasonable stock of the original plasticard sheet and strip from when I used to kit bash SciFi models from cheap aircraft and boat kits, including a pristine A4 sized sheet of scribed sheet just right for 6" planks :-)
Thanks, I hadn't considered that option, but it makes sense.
Quote from: Hobby on November 19, 2019, 10:16
A better bet is to look out for old Triang TT stock and use the bodies off them if you can get them cheap enough. Many of us have done that.
I feel almost guilty about chopping up TT gauge, it seems so rare nowadays, it would be like skinning a Panda to make keyfobs for the World Wild Life Foundation :-)
I will keep my eyes out though
Quote from: Dave Cooper on November 19, 2019, 11:19
Remember that most NG lines were constructed 'on-the-cheap' from whatever could be sourced locally, so pretty much anything goes design-wise...that's the beauty of 009 !
Dave
Thanks Dave, I hadn't considered that aspect, but I like it.
I guess I always had that making SciFi models, nobody could tell you that it was wrong and the more obscure the shape the better as people were less likely to recognize it and spoil the illusion.
It feels almost like going on holiday and letting everything slow down for a bit :-)
Quote from: clayliner on November 19, 2019, 13:14
Apart from 'proper' plastic sheet today £5 a go we are surrounded by plastic in a wide variety of shapes and sizes, all of which ends up in landfill or the oceans. So you could try something like margarine tubs for sheet plastic, and score planks on at whatever distance you need with a sharp knife. Keep your eyes open for recyclable plastics!
David.
Thanks David, I am always on the lookout for stuff that can be reused, but we already try to avoid unnecessary plastic so its not often that we find something, however I do have a pile of CDs that I have been moving into wallets to save space, leaving some quite brittle buts still useful plastic sheet behind.
brittle plastic is a bit of a no no -its brittle !
Don't sink the ship for an appoth of tar .
Its more difficult to cut brittle plastic ,you really need a razor saw .
If you dont have a local model shop then Hattons have three different thicknesses of plasticard and their postage to me in Greece was £1.50 .
I wouldn't have qualms about TT wagons -if they are in the 50p box of a dealer then they are not being venerated anyway,and you get far better detail than i could put on a scratchbuilt wagon .
Quote from: Alan Feldon on November 19, 2019, 21:56
Its more difficult to cut brittle plastic ,you really need a razor saw .
I can see yourpoint but I have been using CD cases for years, especially the grey bit inside. I tend to score and snap then file rather than actually cut, the once over with 240 grade wet and dry paper to get a good paintable surface. :)
I wouldn't have qualms about TT wagons -if they are in the 50p box of a dealer then they are not being venerated anyway,and you get far better detail than i could put on a scratchbuilt wagon .
Sadly no model shop around here that sells railway bits, all RC aircraft, live steam or toy shops
Thanks Alan.
Quote from: Alan Feldon on November 19, 2019, 21:56
I wouldn't have qualms about TT wagons -if they are in the 50p box of a dealer then they are not being venerated anyway,and you get far better detail than i could put on a scratchbuilt wagon .
As Alan says, there are plenty of collectors out there and they have nabbed all the decent TT stuff for their collections so what's left is the crud! BTW I mentioned Triang but from time to time you also see some Berliner-Bahn BTTB and Zeuke TT stuff, the bodies off the four wheel stock make some nice unusual variations being German prototypes. The seller at the toyfairs may try to say they are rare collectors items but that's bo**ocks as they are ten a penny (literally) over in Eastern Europe so make him a bid and grab the box!
Some of the Playcraft British "HO" range can also be used!
A quick tip :
Dug out my one scratch-built 009 wagon today and decided that the upper planks looked a bit over-scale.
With a small needle file, I put a 45 degree chamfer on the inside edges reducing the 'apparent width' from 3mm to about 2mm (they were made from 3 x 3mm strip wood).
They now look much better and just need a touch of paint to finish...(about 5 min's work all in !).
Regards,
Dave
Quote from: Hobby on November 20, 2019, 08:17
As Alan says, there are plenty of collectors out there and they have nabbed all the decent TT stuff for their collections so what's left is the crud!
So TT uses 12mm, I use 9mm so I would have to lose 3mm from the middle of the chassis and retrofit with new wheels and couplings?
Or use Bemo H0m wheelsets. They can be squeezed in to 9mm because they sold the same models in both 12mm H0m and 9mm H0e.
Quote from: Stephen Rainsbury on November 20, 2019, 22:46
So TT uses 12mm, I use 9mm so I would have to lose 3mm from the middle of the chassis and retrofit with new wheels and couplings?
Not necessarily!
If you measure the width of the stock in proportion to the track gauge most narrow gauge stock is wider than standard gauge stock (something like 2 ½ to 3 times (or more) for NG, and maybe 2 for U.K. Std gauge). Also, in moving the smaller scale wagon from 3 mm to 4 mm scale the effective size (i.e. If the model was blown up to full size) is reduced by 25%. To work that through if we take something 12 mm wide (the maths is easier if nothing else!) made for the 3 mm scale market it would scale up to be 4 feet wide in real life, yet the something made to be 12mm wide on a 4 mm scale item would be 3 feet wide in real life.
If you wanted to use the chassis from a TT (3mm scale) wagon then at 12 mm gauge it will be too wide to run on the 9 mm gauge track used in 009. Whilst it is possible to narrow down the chassis the effort involved in getting the 2 halves back together again keeling things square, and also narrowing the axles to suit probably isn't worth it considering the ease which an N gauge chassis can be fitted (and it would be easier to make a short N gauge chassis longer compared to making a TT one narrower) or equally one of the 009 wagon underframe kits could be used. You could also go down the route Retiarus suggests by fitting re-gauged (or regaugeable) wheelsets.
With my own modelling I've used a couple of TT kits as wagon bodies for 009 without narrowing them, and with the little bit OOn3 modelling I also do - that's 4 mm scale models of 3' gauge railways using 12 mm gauge track - the TT running gear often gets a second life too, but then that's another kettle of fish, and I don't want to get bogged down in all the variety of scale/gauge combinations that the 009 Society covers under its 'small scale narrow gauge' umbrella.
Quote from: Retiarius on November 20, 2019, 23:15
Or use Bemo H0m wheelsets. They can be squeezed in to 9mm because they sold the same models in both 12mm H0m and 9mm H0e.
That is useful to know, I can feel a jig coming on. :-)
I don't think you can use Bemo wheelsets on the TT stuff I was talking about Retiarius. The normal way to do it is to throw away (or on-sell!) the chassis from the TT wagon and use the body on an N gauge chassis. You can narrow them if you wish but you often don't have to as many narrow gauge wagons were wide in real life. On NGRM Forum there's a thread devoted to people using standard gauge wagon bodies from a different scales, it is well worth a read for you Stephen.
The Bemo wheelsets have pinpoint ends, I don't know if the TT wagons do or not. I am using a Peco 15ft n gauge chassis under a small H0 scale Fleischmann hopper wagon.
They are not made by the same manufacturers so could be different axle lengths. Bemo wheelsets aren't cheap either. Most of the TT stock from the manufacturers I mentioned use plastic wheels on metal axles and aren't able to be regauged. The cheapest and most practical route is simply for replace the TT chassis for an N gauge one...
If Stephen wishes I will send him a couple of Bemo wheelsets to try. He can pm his address via this forum.
I think we are overcomplicating this for Steven who wants to know if he can use n chassis for 009 wagons and the answer is YES
The suggestion to use TT bodies (not chassis ) was to provide ready made vans/wagons which could be fitted to the N gauge chassis.I would suggest Toy fairs to source these ,and as Blair has suggested remove the bodies and throw away the TT chassis .You might find some TT bodies too long for short N chassis so just cut these in half and stick one half to each end of the underside of the body.
A lot of members retain the N couplings to run wagons in rakes merely replacing this with an 009 coupling at each end (saves money as well ! )
If I can find some I have done I will attempt to post photos hereon .
Quote from: Retiarius on November 21, 2019, 15:05
If Stephen wishes I will send him a couple of Bemo wheelsets to try. He can pm his address via this forum.
Thanks, I am looking at some TT gauge items at the moment, if I win I will drop you a line and thanks again for the kind offer.
Dear Stephen,
I use the N-gauge Fleischmann (GFN) ERZ IIId (as they are functional), the Arnold PS 4 hopper (for the same reason) and some bogie tank wagons for H0i (on 6.5mm track). As I use Bemo in H0e N-gauge stock looks tiny-winzy, but for industrial narrow gauge I'm content with it. These vehicles are narrower than ROCO or Eggerbahn V-skips, i.e. rather too narrow for 9mm track.
I had GFN, Arnold, and Minitrix tipper wagons, and as they are non-prototypical crude toy vehicles they look okay (Arnold is best); best of all they are not too far off some 2-foot heavy duty prototypes (no, not all V-skips had oblong frames ;)).
TT-gauge I use for H0e, but they are somewhat small compared with Liliput Austrian narrow gauge, which is rather smallish compared to Bemo. As already pointed out, the art is removing any scale-identifiers (ladders, handrails etc.) and replace them with 00-scale items. As )) is considerably larger than H0 I would suggest looking at TT is the better option. I have the BTTB (now Tillig) bulk ore dump car (similar to an ERZ IIId (again, because it's functional), a rake of Triang hoppers, Triang and BTTB oil tankers, and the Tar wagon (track cleaner). To me the TT-chassis are the preferred choice for scratch-building, I consider the N-gauge chassis too small, even for smallish narrow gauge. This needs considering, all the more as 00 is markedly bigger than H0. You although need to bear in mind that, unless you have a common carrier operation, narrow gauge stock does not have the sophisticated axle guidance and suspension.
Cheers
Waldschrat
Cheers
Waldschrat
Quote from: Leprechaun on November 21, 2019, 19:58
... narrow gauge stock does not have the sophisticated axle guidance and suspension.
Thanks :)
It's worth bearing in mind that if you use the Zeuke/BTTB/Triang TT wagons the overhang will cover up any faults with the chassis, and if you really want to you can always use a sharp craft knife to "simplify" the running gear down to just the axle box. i agree with L about getting rid uf under scale detail such as ladders and whatever you do don't try to use TT coaches, they just don't work in OO9!
I'd suggest we are starting to go round in circles and as Alan has pointed out are also over-complicating what is a very simple subject. Very early on I mentioned a thread on NGRM which shows people who have used SG wagons in narrow gauge. As Stephen is a member on there I've sent him a link by PM.
May i say something without meaning any offence, Stephen. From your posts on here and NGRM it would seem you are using a "scatter-gun" approach to starting up in OO9 modelling. You seem to have bought several unrelated items (that Decauville and some HOe items as well as OO9 ones from what you've said) and may be continuing to do so. That is a guaranteed way to waste money!
May I suggest that you stop, step back, and have a good look on the two forums and also on the internet and see what sort of layouts and stock you like before buying anything else. Then get rid of the stuff you don't like. If you can make it to a narrow gauge show in the UK where the OO9 second hand stall is that would be a good idea. That will show you what's available and also the going prices and locos bought from them will work! The next one I think will be Irton in January.
Quote from: Hobby on November 22, 2019, 10:03
May i say something without meaning any offence, Stephen. From your posts on here and NGRM it would seem you are using a "scatter-gun" approach to starting up in OO9 modelling. You seem to have bought several unrelated items (that Decauville and some HOe items as well as OO9 ones from what you've said) and may be continuing to do so. That is a guaranteed way to waste money!
You missed facebook groups. :-)
My main interest, even from my SciFi model days, has always been scratch building/restoring models that I like as I like them with no real thread, often inspired by something I found cheap in a bargain bin somewhere, so my approach to Model Railways was always going to be the same. I am very much a visual learner I read in several places that H0e and 009 were freely interchangeable, but it wasn't until I actually had some examples in front of me I realized that for me it could be an issue.
The Decauville stuff is a for purely sentimental, what I haven't mention is that I have been quietly collecting other items of rolling stock well under normal eBay prices, and although I want it to work it will only ever be lightly restored back to factory condition. Except the loco, that was just a scratch rebuild that took my fancy, but so far that has only cost £18.
The rest of my second hand stuff was well under £50, and has given me good insight to how things work, so not a big price to pay.
As for everything else, locos, track, rolling stock kits, they are all looking good and I am happy with them all which is why I haven't mentioned them, but thanks for the concern. Once I have the overall plan for my layout completely clear I will certainly be sharing it.
Quote from: Hobby on November 22, 2019, 10:03
If you can make it to a narrow gauge show in the UK where the OO9 second hand stall is that would be a good idea. That will show you what's available and also the going prices and locos bought from them will work! The next one I think will be Irton in January.
Blair:
All of your advice that you have offered to Stephen is sound and I agree fully, but a quick correction is required here:
Irton is in Eskdale, Cumbria - don't go there in January looking for 009 Sales!! I think you mean the annual SWOONS members day in January at Ilton, in Somerset!
However, the next outing of the Society Sales is a bit nearer than that - Colehill near Wimborne, Dorset on Saturday 7 December. There is an advert for the event in the current issue of 009 News. I've already PM'd Stephen on "the other forum" with details of that one.
Mick
Quote from: MickT on November 23, 2019, 11:25
However, the next outing of the Society Sales is a bit nearer than that - Colehill near Wimborne, Dorset on Saturday 7 December. There is an advert for the event in the current issue of 009 News. I've already PM'd Stephen on "the other forum" with details of that one.
Mick
Thanks for that, sadly as much as I would love to go to both of these events my daughter is getting married and apparently I am supposed to set all of December aside in case something needs to be done.
Having said that there is the Bexleyheath one two miles from my brothers house on December 15th so I am hoping to "pop out for a minute" to that one.
Stephen - just as a footnote, I wouldn't worry too much about mixing 'bits and pieces' from different scales /gauges at this stage.
Build a simple test track and just get something running ! It will soon become apparent what works and what looks right, or not,....especially as you seem to have a knack for picking items up 'on-the-cheap'.
Further on down the line (oops, there's a pun)....you'll probably want to standardise on couplings just to make operating easier - but, you can manage with some bent wire (or similar) in the meantime.
Happy modelling,
Dave
Quote from: Dave Cooper on November 23, 2019, 13:20
Build a simple test track and just get something running ! It will soon become apparent what works and what looks right, or not,....especially as you seem to have a knack for picking items up 'on-the-cheap'.
I have thanks and you are right, I was playing with a few bits last night just to get a feel for what would fall of small radius points, when my wife burst in to tell me that it was 3:15 AM and wasn't I going to bed. (The answer is nothing that I own at the moment )
Further on down the line (oops, there's a pun)....you'll probably want to standardise on couplings just to make operating easier - but, you can manage with some bent wire (or similar) in the meantime.
Thanks, after reading various comments I had decided that Greenwich couplings were the right way, but I am not so sure now.
Thanks Dave, the "cheap" option is because I have a strict personal rules about buying on eBay.
- Have a shopping list and buy what is on it
- Keep search terms open and check for spelling mistakes. My Decauville loco was cheap partially because the seller spelt the name wrong.
- Never bid more than 66% the new cost
- place the bid an hour or so before it ends and then leave it
That has worked right up until I started buying railway bits and I now keep finding myself bidding on crap and hoping that somebody else wins :)
I've just bought the Greenwich "accessory set" - couplings, magnets and height gauge. Will let you know how I get on...
3.15 AM !!! I can't get away with that (unless, perhaps, I combine it with a trip to the bathroom).
Interesting auction strategy by the way...
Quote from: Dave Cooper on November 23, 2019, 20:36
I've just bought the Greenwich "accessory set" - couplings, magnets and height gauge. Will let you know how I get on...
3.15 AM !!! I can't get away with that (unless, perhaps, I combine it with a trip to the bathroom).
Interesting auction strategy by the way...
Please do let me know how you get on with the Greenwich Couplings. Some of my eBay "bargains" were cheap because they didn't have couplings and each one has its own challenge to overcome :-)
3:15 is not normal, but being semi retired days of the week and hours in the day are getting very blurred.
I have bee buying on eBay since 2001 and learnt the hard (expensive) way that you have to be strict, having said that I lost 5 auctions today, including a kit that went for 50p more than my maximum because somebody jumped it at he last second, and I probably would have increased my bid by enough f there had been time.
Quote from: MickT on November 23, 2019, 11:25Irton is in Eskdale, Cumbria - don't go there in January looking for 009 Sales!! I think you mean the annual SWOONS members day in January at Ilton, in Somerset!
I only realised I had mixed the two up after I'd logged out but knew you'd be along to correct me! At least they both have NG connections!
Quote from: Hobby on November 24, 2019, 10:07
I only realised I had mixed the two up after I'd logged out but knew you'd be along to correct me! At least they both have NG connections!
It's not done for malicious fun, I regard it as an essential public duty, as somebody has to do it................................. :police: ::)
Mick
Dear Stephen,
Quote from: Stephen Rainsbury on November 23, 2019, 23:34
I have bee buying on eBay since 2001 and learnt the hard (expensive) way that you have to be strict, having said that I lost 5 auctions today, including a kit that went for 50p more than my maximum because somebody jumped it at he last second, and I probably would have increased my bid by enough f there had been time.
That's a shame, but remember: if it's on ebay once, it'll come around again (except rarities like the Keyser Feurige Elias). So there's every chance you'll get it at your price with patience.
To find out if your price expectation is reasonable, put in the search term, select the options >Title and description<, >lowest to highest<, >worldwide<, and search. Now select >advanced< (top right) and in the new page select >completed listings<. You'll get something like the last 30 days of auctions and what prices were achieved. Based on your amount of patience you can establish your maximum price... ;)
Cheers
Waldschrat
Quote from: Leprechaun on November 25, 2019, 12:35
To find out if your price expectation is reasonable, put in the search term, select the options >Title and description<, >lowest to highest<, >worldwide<, and search. Now select >advanced< (top right) and in the new page select >completed listings<. You'll get something like the last 30 days of auctions and what prices were achieved. Based on your amount of patience you can establish your maximum price... ;)
Absolutely, then factor in how much work that specific item will need, and if it is actually something I need or just want :-)
I lost nine auctions yesterday, but they all went for very silly prices so I am not too bothered. There were three lots of 5 tipper wagons, I bid £15 on two of them, but they all went for £30+, you can buy the new from Dundas for not much more. The rest were manily bundles of mangled n/h0e/009 rolling stock that I only wanted for the chassis to use for scratch build projects.
Stephen
Dear Stephen,
I see, you're watching what I'm watching :laugh: , and you identified the lure of ebay: people pay more than the stuff costs in the (internet)shops. Something to be mindful with regards to your own attitude. My rule is 'less than half price new including postage'; exception only for absolute rarities. Some on my wish list are there for more than 5 years. Really 'need' and model railway? Err no, I don't think so. ;D
You don't say what sort of chassis you're looking for? Plain truck chassis only, I can think of the Dundas Hudson only, but they are cheaper new.
Wagon chassis (with leaf springs) I use H0 bogies, there seems to be an endless supply of pre-Hornby Jouef bogies (they can't be glued, i.e. need screwing). I also eyeball the old Triang Zamak TT-gauge chassis, which seems to come around frequently at a good price, but haven't used them yet (same issue: can't be glued, i.e. needs screwing). I have used Kitmaster TT-coach bogies, but not for chassis.
Cheers
Waldschrat
Quote from: Leprechaun on November 26, 2019, 17:29
You don't say what sort of chassis you're looking for? Plain truck chassis only, I can think of the Dundas Hudson only, but they are cheaper new.
I have enough working rolling stock to "start playing trains" and as much again for projects so I don't have a specific eBay list now.
If I see them at the right price I might be a couple of guards vans, some 4 wheel coaches and some chassis for specific projects. These include a 4 wheel Diesel tanker and some coal wagons for supplying my engine shed.
Apart from that I would like to add to my small Joueff collection, but only in perfect condition at a low price, so I get a daily search email, but no rush.
Stephen
Quote from: Retiarius on November 20, 2019, 23:15
Or use Bemo H0m wheelsets. They can be squeezed in to 9mm because they sold the same models in both 12mm H0m and 9mm H0e.
Do some of the Bemo 12mm gauge wheel sets have a ridge on the axle that prevents them being pushed in?
Brian Meldon
Quote from: B.Meldon on November 27, 2019, 14:01
Quote from: Retiarius on November 20, 2019, 23:15
Or use Bemo H0m wheelsets. They can be squeezed in to 9mm because they sold the same models in both 12mm H0m and 9mm H0e.
Do some of the Bemo 12mm gauge wheel sets have a ridge on the axle that prevents them being pushed in?
Brian Meldon
None of the rolling stock I have does, but I have had H0m locos where you can't regauge the wheelsets. Steam outline can't easily be regauge but most diesel/electric locos can.
Quote from: Stephen Rainsbury on November 26, 2019, 22:16
Apart from that I would like to add to my small Joueff collection, but only in perfect condition at a low price, so I get a daily search email, but no rush.
Stephen
I think I provided a link to the 009 News article all about the Jouef H0e range in the loco restoration thread. As I mentioned getting all the versions of the loco, the V skip, the toastrack, the log wagon and even the track is quite easy. (note the two versions of the Jouef points.) The two items that are somewhat harder to get are the pre-formed layouts. The larger one sold in the Playcraft box do come up for sale from time to time, but expect to pay around £500 for one in good condition in a box, but by far the most dificult item to obtain is the small pre-formed layout that was sent out to shops as a publicity item. I have never seen one of these for sale.
Quote from: B.Meldon on November 27, 2019, 14:01
Quote from: Retiarius on November 20, 2019, 23:15
Or use Bemo H0m wheelsets. They can be squeezed in to 9mm because they sold the same models in both 12mm H0m and 9mm H0e.
Do some of the Bemo 12mm gauge wheel sets have a ridge on the axle that prevents them being pushed in?
Brian Meldon
Some do, Brian, but they are just on the locos I believe, the electric and diesel locos from what I remember it's set so you end up with approx 9mm gauge at it's minimum setting! The steam locos will normally need a new chassis block to work right but I suppose it could be done, personally I'd just sell it on and get one of the correct gauge!
The wagon and coach wheels just have plain axles, though, so are fairly easy to regauge using a back2back gauge.
Quote from: B.Meldon on November 27, 2019, 15:07
I think I provided a link to the 009 News article all about the Jouef H0e range in the loco restoration thread. As I mentioned getting all the versions of the loco, the V skip, the toastrack, the log wagon and even the track is quite easy.
You did indeed Brian, and I ended up reading all the stuff about Eggerbahn too. When I say collection I only really want a working loco, and at least one of each type of rolling stock as I remember them, so green and red tipper only. I plan to keep them in factory condition where possible, but still run them just for fun every now and again.
Stephen
Quote from: Stephen Rainsbury on November 27, 2019, 23:51
Quote from: B.Meldon on November 27, 2019, 15:07
I think I provided a link to the 009 News article all about the Jouef H0e range in the loco restoration thread. As I mentioned getting all the versions of the loco, the V skip, the toastrack, the log wagon and even the track is quite easy.
You did indeed Brian, and I ended up reading all the stuff about Eggerbahn too. When I say collection I only really want a working loco, and at least one of each type of rolling stock as I remember them, so green and red tipper only. I plan to keep them in factory condition where possible, but still run them just for fun every now and again.
Stephen
The Egger articles are quite old now and I have since found more info. and have more variations that could have added to the photos, so there are a couple of small errors, but they are mostly correct. The bit about the two Jouef points was also added after the article was published in 009 news. I never did finish the Egger rolling stock articles, they are sort of written, but incomplete, I am also short a couple of the wagon variations to take photos of for the articles as well. (Yes after 40 years of collecting there are still some Egger items I have not got!)
Quote from: B.Meldon on November 28, 2019, 13:28
I never did finish the Egger rolling stock articles, they are sort of written, but incomplete, I am also short a couple of the wagon variations to take photos of for the articles as well. (Yes after 40 years of collecting there are still some Egger items I have not got!)
There is something quite charming about them, what else was there to add?
I just bought a Number 4 diesel that doesn't work for £10 and a Western that has had the cow catcher removed and been painted shiny back for £25. That seems to have been well looked after and run nicely, but sadly the raised "Union Pacific"on the tender has been sanded down. Still it is a nice addition until I decide what I am going to do with it long term
Quote from: Stephen Rainsbury on November 28, 2019, 18:05
Quote from: B.Meldon on November 28, 2019, 13:28
I never did finish the Egger rolling stock articles, they are sort of written, but incomplete, I am also short a couple of the wagon variations to take photos of for the articles as well. (Yes after 40 years of collecting there are still some Egger items I have not got!)
There is something quite charming about them, what else was there to add?
I just bought a Number 4 diesel that doesn't work for £10 and a Western that has had the cow catcher removed and been painted shiny back for £25. That seems to have been well looked after and run nicely, but sadly the raised "Union Pacific"on the tender has been sanded down. Still it is a nice addition until I decide what I am going to do with it long term
The no4 diesel 009 news article just hapens to be in the sample 009 News that is available on the web site, it starts on page 15, here is a link: https://www.009society.com/october2013.pdf
If you read the Western loco artical it will tell you what version you have. It is about half way down this web page: http://www.egger-bahn.nl/egger%20009%20soc%2050%20jaar.html
Brian Meldon
Quote from: B.Meldon on November 29, 2019, 10:22
The no4 diesel 009 news article just hapens to be in the sample 009 News that is available on the web site, it starts on page 15, here is a link: https://www.009society.com/october2013.pdf
If you read the Western loco article it will tell you what version you have. It is about half way down this web page: http://www.egger-bahn.nl/egger%20009%20soc%2050%20jaar.html
Thanks.
So I can tell that the Number 4 is one of the later wide Jouef ones. It is missing the "wood" front section and unless I start it very slowly topples over backwards. I might just make a replacement and hide some lead in a tool box, or maybe put an oil barrel there to hide a DCC decoder. I am looking for a decent sized driver too, who can hang out the side to make the size obvious.
The Western was completely painted gloss black quite nicely, but it has started to crack and go misty in places. At some point I would like to strip and repaint it at some point, but in the meantime I will just use it as a #5 steam loco. The tender would be a good place to put a DCC chip and even a sound decoder, but that is another project for another day.
Thanks again, I have plenty to keep me going over the winter now, so time to stop buying rolling stock for a bit and concentrate on getting my layout started :-)
Quote from: Stephen Rainsbury on November 29, 2019, 11:08
Thanks.
So I can tell that the Number 4 is one of the later wide Jouef ones. It is missing the "wood" front section and unless I start it very slowly topples over backwards. I might just make a replacement and hide some lead in a tool box, or maybe put an oil barrel there to hide a DCC decoder. I am looking for a decent sized driver too, who can hang out the side to make the size obvious
From new there would have been a piece of metal in the front of the wood section under the seat on the No4 going into the slot in the lower part of the body.
Brian Meldon
Quote from: B.Meldon on November 29, 2019, 15:05
From new there would have been a piece of metal in the front of the wood section under the seat on the No4 going into the slot in the lower part of the body.
Thanks, yes I had to put quite a wodge of blutac to keep it on the track. Standalone the motor works really well but back in there is sill some hesitation every now and again despite cleaning the wheels and contacts. It isn't always the same place, just random occurrences, I will try again next week, my kids have Sister in law has just arrived and my wife offered her "my" room to sleep in :-(