Have taken some shots of my first layout, Haul Y Bryn. Freelance Welsh set near a small slate works but now struggling against some of the bigger quarries the line is only just getting by on a small passenger service and the odd freight train. The station is built on a low terrace while on the level above will be a small row of shops. On the right hand side of the layout I intend to build some slate workers cottages and below these a small goods yard with a sheep/cattle dock. The black foamboard that runs along the board is going to be built into dry slate walling using strips of card of different thickness. Hoping to crack on with some more of the scenic work other these Winter months.
Eddie
And
And as you can see the station is quite close to the front of the board which is why I want as much detail as possible inside the station building.
Hi Eddie
This is looking good so far.
I see that you have a wire in tube system for point operation. If you have not done so already I would recommend some type of electrical switching for the points. Using the point blades only to switch the power can be very unreliable.
One simple solution I have used in the past is to fit a two way switch at the control end of the wire. This can also make the points more positive in operation.
Brian Meldon
I have heard that this helps but how easy is it to do with peco 009 points. I have some switches that can be activated on top of the board but I am a little unsure about the wiring.
Eddie
You will need a two way switch.
The centre common of the switch is connected to the frog (The V in the middle of the point.) The two sides of the switch are connected one each to the stock rails. (The two fixed outer rails.)
As the point changes direction the switch will connect the frog to the appropriate stock rail.
Depending on the type of switch you use it should be possible to attach the end of the point control wire to the moving part of the switch. I have done this in the past with both slider and toggle switches.
Even if you use point motors switching is still required for reliable running.
As a matter of interest did you test your layout with a loco before you balasted the track?
Brian Meldon
Hi Brian
Yes locos run through okay but think that I may need the extra measure. Will I need to put a cut near the frog or as I have fitted isolating fishplates as per the instructions can I go ahead and wire it up. If I do need to cut the point, where would be the best place ?????.
Regards
Eddie
No cuts on the point are necessary as the switches only duplicate the switching action of the points. If the layout works as it is with the insulating fishplates you have already fitted all you need to do is add the wires and the switches.
Brian
Many thanks Brian. Holes drilled and dropper wires going in over the weekend.
Eddie
Hi Brian
Have wired up the points and all is working well ;D but I did notice last night when running some Locos through that the wheels lifted when they got to the crossing Vees. Is this normal....
Hi Eddie
Yes, unfortunately it is a known problem.
The first thing you have to do is to check the back to back measurements of all the wheels.
Even when new I have found several locos and rollinng stock to be incorrect.
Use an N gauge back to back gauge to check, like this one:
http://www.wellingtonmodels.com/image.php?image=http://www.wellingtonmodels.com/cdata/20461/img/20461_857688.jpg&sCaption=-NaN-
There are several others, it should cost under
Hi Brian
The problem only seems to happen with the locos running in one direction (the toe end). I am running a dapol 14xx chassis on one of my locos and a GF 94xx on another, both seem to have the same problem. I was tempted to take a small needle file to the plastic part of the Vee and try and make it a bit deeper. At the moment it doesn't stop the engines running but it does look odd.
Regards
Eddie
Ok Eddie
It will not be the depth of the flange way that is the problem.
Provided you have made sure that your back to back wheel measurements are correct it is almost certain the location of the V in the centre of the point that will be the cause. It is too close in gauge to the fixed outer curved rail.
So when the flange of the leading wheel reaches the point of the V it will ride up on it.
When you look down on a Peco 009 point and follow the curved path through the centre frog this problem is obvious.
The other problem can be the start of the guide rails. You will have to look closely to see exactly where the problem is with you locos.
Making the start of the flange guide rails less abrupt will cure this.
Just because the chassis are new it does not mean the back to backs will be correct. Out of 3 Dapol 14xx that I purchased direct from Dapol, only one had all wheels set correctly to gauge. But then at
Quote from: B.Meldon on January 15, 2010, 09:23
<snipped>
Nothing in 009 is straightforward and this like many other things needs experience to get it correct.
Brian Meldon
Never truer words, Brian
Perhaps we can ask Mark (Howe) to put that as a header and/or footer on eaqch page of the News! :laugh:
Hi Brian
Result :) openned the check rail slightly with a needle file and then to my horror found some ballast that had taken up residence near to the vee. A short sharp shock from a small screwdriver and hooray...... smooth running. Many Thanks for your help.
Eddie
Quick update. Legs and backboard fitted and some of the scenic work started. Longest part is building the wall at the back of the station but with all the trash on telly I find that I can spend a couple of hours cutting and gluing card strips.
Eddie
Some new pictures of the wall. I was not happy with the card strips so made some blocks from Das and cut them to size. The light grey colour is just the undercoat and each block will be painted using many shades of grey. Dapol figure just added for scale.
And without the figure
Quick update. Change of role at job so not so much modelling time but more money to spend on the hobby. Have made a water tower and a sheep/Cattle pen
And the overall view
Few more photo's
Looking from the sheep dock
And the first of the rolling stock
Looks really atmospheric. Plant life is very welsh. Keep it up.
That's really rather nice, only a couple of photos on the thread worked (the most recent ones) but it looks darn good. What have you used for ballast, crushed slate? I also take it there is some use of statc grass in there, or have you got it looking that good by some other means?
Keep it up
J
Thanks Guys
The ballast is just run of the mill Gaugemaster N stuff with some real slate mixed in. As for the grass, yes it is static grass ( a mixture of whatever was about ) but puffed onto some Wilkinsons hanging basket liner. I glued this down and then trimmed it with nail scissors and an old nose and ear trimmer, bit like cutting the grass but on a smaller scale. Sorry about the photos, most of them disappeared when the forum went down. The wall is made from Das cut into blocks and then built one by one. Not a very interesting track layout but I can run two locos on it at the same time. One more photo, the engine came from the society stand and is a wonderful runner. This is the first train to run on Haul Y Bryn.
Eddie
August 22, 2010, 10:14:43 PM
Been a long time since I updated so here we go. The following pictures are of the coal area, the end of the line and the little goods yard hut.
The end of the line
The small hut
It is good to see scale thickness stone walls! The internal detail is delightful.
Thanks. I find that many buildings on layouts look far to flimsy. And that is one of the joys of foamboard, it lets you create some real depth. If I ever move up in scale to 7mm Narrow Gauge I will double the wall thickness and sandwich the windows and doors between the two. Not really that sure I could do it in 4mm. Making a start on the buildings along the high street which will include a general store and a hotel. Looking forward to the detailing on those !!!!!!!!