I am building a Tebee El Cheapo 009 diesel loco
so far i have just given it a coat of halfords Filler primmer (well what was left in the can)
once it is dry i will see what need doing next
tune in for more later today
here are the photos
before primmer
(https://forum.009society.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm8.staticflickr.com%2F7385%2F11734355484_e22fe7035b_z.jpg&hash=3e22e3b6ee015df8423fd1ed12aeec82549cd18b) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/mozzer36/11734355484/)
100_6657 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/mozzer36/11734355484/) by Mozzer models (http://www.flickr.com/people/mozzer36/), on Flickr
& after a coat of filler primmer
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100_6658 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/mozzer36/11734352914/) by Mozzer models (http://www.flickr.com/people/mozzer36/), on Flickr
next job is to give the loco a light sanding
I have sanded the body with No 400 wet & dry ( keeped dry) & a old blunt flat file this gave me this finish
If i had had more paint in the tin then i would have given the filler primmer a thicker coat
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100_6659 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/mozzer36/11751211976/) by Mozzer models (http://www.flickr.com/people/mozzer36/), on Flickr
as the finished modle is going to be in a maroon livery the body has been given a coat of Halfords red primmer
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100_6661 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/mozzer36/11750451445/) by Mozzer models (http://www.flickr.com/people/mozzer36/), on Flickr
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100_6662 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/mozzer36/11750695503/) by Mozzer models (http://www.flickr.com/people/mozzer36/), on Flick
I am happy with this finish so once the primmer is fully dry later today /tomorow i will give the body its maroon paint
the time taken to sand & file was only 10 minutes
well the body now has a coat of Halfords Rover Damask Red car spray paint once this is dry & hard I will get on to painting the roof, footplate & solebars
heres how it looks
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100_6663 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/mozzer36/11758265604/) by Mozzer models (http://www.flickr.com/people/mozzer36/), on Flickr
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100_6664 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/mozzer36/11758263784/) by Mozzer models (http://www.flickr.com/people/mozzer36/), on Flickr
That's a very good result in only two or three stages. Perhaps I should have used Halfords car spray as well!
Quote from: tedp on January 04, 2014, 23:03
That's a very good result in only two or three stages. Perhaps I should have used Halfords car spray as well!
as its a car spray paint it is a thick paint so helps to cover over blemishes
& as my job is building models & painting them I do try & find a Halfords paint that matches I have a list that ever Larry Godards has help fill in
its a good colour and you've got a nice finish on it.
It really shows the potential of 3D printing when time, patience and skill are applied and what can be done in the hands of someone who knows what to do. It is a long way from the original that looked like it was made from foam rubber or sponge cake!
I do wonder though (as the kit is intended for beginners) what difference it would make in price if the model was printed in finer quality material. Given the extra time spent preparing the surface, what sort of hourly rate would one need to pay (oneself) before it makes 'economic' sense to start with a higher quality and more expensive print material?
Or on the other hand, given that a beginner will not be able to achieve such good results in finishing the model, what quality of printing best matches the eventual finish that a beginner can hope to achieve?
Given the limitations of the material it was an excellent plan on behalf of the designer to 'beef up' the detail so that it is not obliterated during preparation. I have a model from a Shapeways shop and the finest detail on it is hardly more distinct than the surface roughness.
I agree it might be useful to find out what it would cost when printed in FUD plastic. It would make finishing even easier. Suppose the 3D print would cost twice what it costs now, you might have an (almost) ready to run loco at below 50 pounds.
Regarding painting, I think most people will be able to handle a can of spray paint if the model is put on a sheet of newspaper outside the house.
Quote from: GraemeD on January 05, 2014, 11:14
Or on the other hand, given that a beginner will not be able to achieve such good results in finishing the model, what quality of printing best matches the eventual finish that a beginner can hope to achieve?
I have done this topic to pass on the knowledge of how to go about painting a 3d printed body theres nothing here that a beginner could not do.
As ted says most people will be able to handle a can of spray paint if the model is put on a sheet of newspaper outside the house.
Yes i build kits as my Job so i know what to do but there is nothing hard to finishing these body to a good finish for a beginner
well I have now finished painting the body apart from weathering & thats it i do any to it
the Roof was painted with Humbrol Acrylic No27
the Radiator was painted with Citadel Paint ( Games Workshop) Leadbelcher
& the Footplate/ Solebars were painted with Citadel Paint ( Games Workshop) Abaddon Black
The 1st 2 photos were taken in the same place as the other shots so the lighting is the same in all the photos so far
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100_6665 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/mozzer36/11776677723/) by Mozzer models (http://www.flickr.com/people/mozzer36/), on Flickr
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100_6666 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/mozzer36/11776432085/) by Mozzer models (http://www.flickr.com/people/mozzer36/), on Flickr
the Next 3 photos are taken in My 009 photo booth the body is only sat on the rails as i am still awating the chassis to arrive from Japan
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100_6667 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/mozzer36/11776850144/) by Mozzer models (http://www.flickr.com/people/mozzer36/), on Flickr
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100_6668 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/mozzer36/11776845364/) by Mozzer models (http://www.flickr.com/people/mozzer36/), on Flickr
& this shows the hight next to a Bryin kits L&B coach
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100_6669 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/mozzer36/11777195186/) by Mozzer models (http://www.flickr.com/people/mozzer36/), on Flickr
Once the chassis arrives Dean my son will have his 1st 009 loco
looks really good.
It does look quite good, Brian. Are you going to weather it just as the Kerr Stuart next to it? And the size is very similar as well.
Quote from: tedp on January 05, 2014, 11:56
Regarding painting, I think most people will be able to handle a can of spray paint if the model is put on a sheet of newspaper outside the house.
Yes, and most people will produce results that are markedly inferior. I think it is playing down what has been demonstrated here. Stick a cheap fiddle under Vanessa-Mae's chin and you will hear wonderful music.
The architect Frank Lloyd Wright is reputed to have said "an expert is a man who has stopped thinking - he knows" (or something like that).
His quote is another way of expressing the state of unconscious competence. Of course any able bodied person can move a bit of abrasive paper about and press the button on a can of spray paint but it doesn't mean the result will be the same.
It is all fine to know about dust and temperature and humidity and if painting outside only spraying when the air is still and to use a large cardboard box as a spray booth and making sure the model is held securely on a stand that allows you to position it at will and set it down to dry under cover afterwards and shaking the can for at least as long as it says (because you never shake it as much as you think) and press the button as you sweep past but well before it is the line of the model and to release it again once you have swept well past it and not being too far away so the solvent evaporates before the paint hits the model or too close so that it floods and runs and to try it out on a test piece immediately before approaching the actual model because not all spray cans are the same and the same can that worked perfectly last time might spit and sputter this time and to sweep in different directions to cover the model, paying particular attention to internal corners so they get an adequate coating without drenching the bits of the model that stick out in from of it and many many more things beside including knowing when to hold back when things do go wrong and not panic any try to remove that insect that has stuck to the model with your thumb in the vain belief that a quick overspray will hide the damage..... but after all that it still takes practice.
Beginners can really foul things up! ;D ;D
True Graeme, but maybe pessimistic?
Yes, some will pick it up very quickly, some more slowly and some will never get there. The latter are perhaps in the wrong hobby and its one reason why I could never run a model shop or do my hobby as a business
The essential message however is valid especially for the sort of people interested enough to join this forum and similar. 3D is gradually becoming respectable. I dont like skirts or "magic carpets" unless they cover some attempt at what should be there, but thats just my view and if these items get people involved who am I to be sniffy about them
One great benefit of this forum is seeing the progressive efforts of others and the invariably encouraging comments in response; I am certainly learning to hold fire on my comments until I can really see what is going on and am often surprised at how "sows ears" often become quite silky purses
Peter Smith
Yes, I did lay it on rather thick didn't I? ::)
In one of his books, Iain Rice differentiates between "assembling a kit" and "building a model from a kit". Beginners are most likely to first category so the kit designer should do most of the work for the customer. I think that the advantage of providing a complete body shell that needs no assembly is somewhat offset by giving the customer extra work to do preparing the surface for finishing in the name of economy.
Regarding painting, I bought 'Airbrushing for railway modellers' by George Dent and one word changed my approach: denibbing, and the realization that surface defects were a common hazard that had to be dealt with and not a sign of ultimate failure, though of course to be minimised. (I'm making a ukulele kit at the moment - nothing to do with railways - and I'm quite pleased with the result having finally accepted that it requires layer after layer of brushed varnish rubbed down in between coats.)
Painting is a dark art for many. Apparently, if you know what you are doing, you can overspray acrylics with cellulose paint, but on the other hand if you don't, then spraying one sort of acrylic over another can turn the surface into a crinkly mess.
Well it WAS laid on a bit thick indeed - almost 10 lines of solid advice to tie yourself in knots over.
One thing I didn't mean to do is play down Brian's work which is very good. I referred to spray painting a FUD printed model (which you suggested). This probably takes far less work since there is no surface to seal first. But it doesn't take into account that handling a spray can for the first time may result in mistakes being made. The only answer is practice first on a trial piece.
The chassis has now arrived so i have fitted the chassis with Peco new NEM cupling which once you have uncliped the N-gauge pocket & removed the old one the peco coulping just slots in to the pocket
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100_6683 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/mozzer36/11966494916/) by Mozzer models (http://www.flickr.com/people/mozzer36/), on Flickr
& here is the loco with am assorted roling stock to show the size of the loco
peco van
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It does look good, Brian. It's slightly taller than the H0 scale stock but that is very small to start with. The Peco L&B 4-wheelers are small vehicles as well.
The diesel is very neat - it looks a bit like a shortened West Clare diesel. I also like what you showed of the 009 coupler fitting into the Kato chassis. I decided to keep the N gauge couplers on the saddle tank for my own use, but others may want to change that.