Peco "James"

[JulienW]

I hope this fits, I just bought it on eBay for £20.  The listing just says Graham Farrish 0-6-0 so not necessarily an exact fit, but its a start. If not I can use that on another project. :D

It is sold as a non-runner, the motor turns but the wheels don't so there is still a bit of work to do, but at least I can start fitting the body to it.

That looks like the 'General Purpose' tank. It may be a little longer than the 57xx chassis but it should be possible to modify the Peco body to fit as (iirc) the way that these chassis are fixed to the body - lugs on one end and a long screw at the other - are fairly common across the range. At the easiest just enlarge the hole in the footplate casting (at either end or both) but an alternative would be to lengthen the loco - footplate and body - to keep the proportions of body & chassis length the same. If you go down that route then it may be an idea that any insert pieces in the footplate, boiler and tanks are not in the same place / plane (i.e. don't build the body & then cut it but cut it first) as 'staggered' joints will result in a stronger body.

As I've mentioned in a previous post BR lines sell spares for this chassis. They may be willing to do the work too, but I don't know what their charges are like, and certainly in the past have been happy to give advice.

[Stephen Rainsbury]

... lengthen the loco - footplate and body - to keep the proportions of body & chassis length the same. If you go down that route then it may be an idea that any insert pieces in the footplate, boiler and tanks are not in the same place / plane (i.e. don't build the body & then cut it but cut it first) as 'staggered' joints will result in a stronger body.

I was hoping to make this a simple first build of a white metal kit, but as they say, in for a penny  ;D

As I've mentioned in a previous post BR lines sell spares for this chassis. They may be willing to do the work too, but I don't know what their charges are like, and certainly in the past have been happy to give advice.

Ahh rebuilding the chassis is something I enjoy, I was expecting to have to get any broken gears 3d printed, but its good to know that the originals are available, thanks.

Stephen

[Stephen Rainsbury]

The chassis I bought (Above) doesn't quiet fit but it isn't miles off but doesn't quite clear the back of the kit floor.



I think I will extend the floor backwards by about 5mm, something like this (The extra panel against the back.) and probably raise the roof by a few mm.



Unfortunately the chassis was sold as not working and I can see know that the worm gear is worn down, so that needs to be replaced, and the pickups look a bit dodgy on one side, so I might do them before starting the body. I am very temped to put a Transfabriek motor in now while its in bits, but that will mean fettling it in as I don't think he does a kit. Still that's all the fun isn't it :)

Isn't it?  ???

Stephen

[JulienW]

As an alternative to moving the back of the cab back and extending the roof to fill the gap what about using the extra space behind the cab to make a rear bunker?

[Stephen Rainsbury]

As an alternative to moving the back of the cab back and extending the roof to fill the gap what about using the extra space behind the cab to make a rear bunker?

And so making a decent space for a DCC receiver?!!  Nice, thanks :)
Stephen