Loco refurbishment

[Stefan Krebs]

Dear Stephen,

Yes, that is a good choice of oil, and the price is the same as in the bay of plenty.
For the gear-meshes consider one of these:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/product-reviews/B000NORVHI/ref=cm_cr_unknown?ie=UTF8&filterByStar=five_star&reviewerType=all_reviews&pageNumber=1#reviews-filter-bar
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Finish-Line-Teflon-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B002L5YYYA/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=teflon+grease&qid=1574683448&sr=8-6
No recommendation of a particular source or brand, just examples; apparently your local bicycle shop will have some.  :laugh:
One tube should last you about 10 lifetimes, but that's no reason to dose heavily.  :laugh:

Kind Regards
Waldschrat

[Stefan Krebs]

Really, you think I know more than you do?  :P

Would it be an acceptable alternative to you, m'learned friends, if I asked you to PM me your e-mail address, and I'll e-mail you the original, as in unaltered by our very creative editor?  ::)

Makes it so much easier for me to find...  :laugh:

Just asking...
Waldschrat

[Graeme Dunbar]

Simply posting the year and month it appears would suffice.

[Stefan Krebs]

It was about 1 year ago..., or so. Is that close enough?  :laugh:

My original was last modified 12.12. 2018, so it would be 2 or 3 month after that. That's of course, if he published it at all... ;)
We had an argument about copyright and creative editing, i.e. I disapprove of fact-distorting edited articles appearing under my name, that's why there won't be any more articles from me in the 009 news.  :laugh:

And no, I don't keep records when where which article of mine was published; so, no, I can't give you the information your asking for as it is NOT simple.


Cheers
Waldschrat

[Stephen Rainsbury]

For the gear-meshes consider one of these:
Done :-)

I accidentally triggered a free amazon prime trial last week so am hammering that, it wasn't until afterwards I found out it is going to take a week. :-(
I already have some Teflon grease from repairing R/C Robot Wars Toys. It hardly looks touched :-)

Thanks again

Stephen

[Stephen Rainsbury]

Simply posting the year and month it appears would suffice.

Not if you only just joined and only have 4 mags  ;D
Mind you I just bought a load of back numbers on eBay :)

[Stephen Rainsbury]

It may well be possible to remove and replace the magnet as it appears there is a bit of plastic in front of it which presumably is the rear bearing. However, finding a magnet of the same size may be unrealistic and making a suitable pole piece to pack out any gap would be time consuming. Adding magnets to the back if there is space sounds more practical.

The magnet comes out very easily, indeed it is the only thing holding the back of the motor together. I took it to work today and put it through our 5,000V magnetisng coil. It hardly made any difference which is a blow, so one of the technicians "lent" me a selection of magnets to try out.

Once I work out which is the best I will buy one from that site, thanks.   

[Hobby]

Simply posting the year and month it appears would suffice.

Not if you only just joined and only have 4 mags  ;D
Mind you I just bought a load of back numbers on eBay :)

It would then be easy for you to get a copy of the article, though! Anyhow seems it's a red herring as the article doesn't seem to have been published...

[B.Meldon]

For the motors in these locos another easy option for a replacement magnet is to use several tiny disk 'rare earth' Neodymium magnets. These are available in many sizes including 3mm disks that are 0.5mm thick. Just use the size and quantity you need to fill the gap between the motor sides. These work well, they are not at all expensive (probably under £5 for what you need) and are easy to obtain in various sizes; see this e-bay link for an example of a UK seller:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262409989613

Brian Meldon

[MickT]

It would then be easy for you to get a copy of the article, though! Anyhow seems it's a red herring as the article doesn't seem to have been published...

In which case there wasn't much point in making a posting on here with a brief summary about an article that "was written for 009 News" if it wasn't published anyway!!

A simple solution to satisfy curiosity about this rather innovative and unusual method of cleaning loco mechanisms in this case would now be to simply post it on here and then "leprechaun" will be able to be assured that the complete text will be available to the members, or at least those members who are members of the forum, without the editing which he objects to of the article that was submitted to the Editor of 009 News. I can't see why it seems to be necessary to make such a fuss about a very simple request for information that was temptingly referred to.

[Stefan Krebs]

Err, slight mistake, but not on my part: the method is NOT new or innovative, I know about it for at least 30 years!  :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
When I acquired a job-lot of 8 unused Aurora chassis produced around 1972, which all had gunged up oil all over them, I thought, this is a golden opportunity for a more meaningful test, all brand-spanking new, never run, all gunged up good and proper. With plenty of spare parts I could chance it as I can fix any potential damage.  ;D
The other mistake is that the article is more or less all pictures with 1-liner comments, so posting the text only isn't much more than the summary you've got!  :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
But since you asked so nicely the text is at the bottom, under my signature.

And of course there is point in writing here, or do you think it's only try if it was in the 009 news? Then I pity you, I wouldn't believe anything in any news paper without a pinch of caution, especially if you've seen what some editors get up to.  :laugh:

But if you think I'm lying feel free and google for the method, there's plenty about it on the Internet.  ;D



Cheers
Waldschrat


=============================
Power washing your chassis

Another tale on the Internet is, that you can clean mechanisms by running them in water. As I had several slot car chassis, new old-stock from the 70ties that were oozing gunged oil, it was time for a trials series. No apologies that these are no model railway engines, but you struggle to find a job lot of 8 new old-stock engines with gunged oil like that.

Picture 1: Brown Sauce, but not as we like it, nor where I like
Picture 2: Into a jar of clean tap water, with power leads attached, at about 8V out of 16V; note the lit light, but no action, other than the bubbles from the anchor as it warms up. The gunge stops the anchor rotating.
Picture 3: A couple of careful notches with a tooth pick on the gear wheel, action as I like it
Picture 4: Some soap shavings, very small amounts, added, - and volá, murky waters
Picture 5: That doesn't look exciting; time for a powered rinse in fresh water
Picture 6: The gunge comes out, evidently
Picture 7: Comparison, before and after; no price for guessing, which is which; even though we learn some corrosion's going pretty fast; but nothing a glass fibre pen can't fix.

- Chassis dried with paper towel, blowing out droplets by mouth.
- 2 days on the radiator at low temperatures, with a manual spin twice a day to ensure trapped water is released.
- Out of 8 chassis one did not work, and wasn't one to be coaxed into running from the outset, but all others eventually ran smoothly, and still run nicely a year later.

No apologies that these aren't model railway chassis. But a suitable batch for meaningful trials isn't that readily to come by. These 8 chassis were all brand spanking new, manufactured around 1972, and had never run. None was running freely before the wash, even so 2 would run; the rest needed a little push or 2 to get them started.
Not sure whether I blew a bulb or 2 with the temperature shock, or whether they stopped working due to (local element) corrosion; on the list of things to do, but obviously it's better to remove any bulbs; I left them in place for the pictures so you can SEE the power is on.
=================================

[MickT]

But since you asked so nicely the text is at the bottom, under my signature.

And of course there is point in writing here, or do you think it's only try if it was in the 009 news? Then I pity you, I wouldn't believe anything in any news paper without a pinch of caution, especially if you've seen what some editors get up to.  :laugh:

But if you think I'm lying feel free and google for the method, there's plenty about it on the Internet.  ;D

Thank you, the text of your article is clear enough and I can understand how it works without the photos, so that is very interesting and helpful.

I don't understand your sentence above - "or do you think it's only try if it was in the 009 news? Then I pity you," and I certainly don't need patronising comments thank you.

Why would I think you are lying? What I do think is that you need to be a little less sensitive.

[Stephen Rainsbury]

Mind you I just bought a load of back numbers on eBay :)

It would then be easy for you to get a copy of the article, though! Anyhow seems it's a red herring as the article doesn't seem to have been published...

Sadly they are from 2010-2014, so still a gap. I would happily buy a CD of the PDF back numbers that are sent abroad  :)

[Stephen Rainsbury]

These work well, they are not at all expensive (probably under £5 for what you need) ..

Thanks, I already have a few that I will try once it is all back together again.

[clayliner]

Re. brown sauce, I guess that would ideally be HP. Despite the 'blend of oriental herbs and spices' therein (if I remember the label correctly) I'm guessing it would be the vinegar which does most of the work.

David.