Greenwich Couplings

[Frank]

In the " proptotype for everything " department there is of course the Ashover Light Railway's turning triangle at the Ashover Butts end of the line.   

Frank

[Andre Anderson]

Greetings,

I would like to thank every one that answered my questions, so it seems to me that the Greenwich Coupling is the de facto standard because it works well. Trying to figure out how narrow gauge railways work in another country is one of the reasons that I have gone down this path. And I have really enjoyed the trips do far.

Thanks again for all of the good answers,
Andre Anderson
Portland Oregon USA

[JulienW]

I think the reasoning behind the Greenwich coupling was to produce a reasonable priced item than was more discrete than the Bemo couplings available and that could be uncoupled using hidden magnets, eliminating the need for very visible uncoupling ramps on layouts. (But please anyone do correct me if I am wrong!) The design is such that it is also partly compatible with the Bemo couplings, in that they will couple up, but as one type needs a ramp and the other a magnet automatic uncoupling between the two types is not possible. However as many H0e and 009 locos do not have the loops fitted these can work with the Greenwich couplings and the Egger/Bemo type. Also a hand held uncoupling tool can be used to uncouple both types.

If I may interject there Brian it should be possible to modify the Bemo couplings to work with magnets (not that I have tried).  I'll also point out that any coupling that will work magnetically can also be worked by electromagnets, which should avoid issues with things uncoupling when not required to do so and steel on the stock (axles and some wheel tyres) being attracted as can happen with permanent magnets.

The main problem faced by all 009 modellers is that the coupling heights in kits and ready to run items are hardly ever the same so some adjustment of the couplings is often necessary to get them all at the same height. Failure to do this will result in unreliable coupling up, accidental uncoupling and not being able to uncouple remotely. Getting all the couplings adjusted correctly is key to success.

Brian Meldon

Agreed - the importance of getting the couplings all at the same height can not be over stressed. Greenwich supply an etched gauge, RT Models make a very useful resin item or one can make one from a bit of wood, a length of track and a screw (with a flat top) in the wood at one end of the track to set the coupling height.

[Tigger]

The Greenwich coupling is an excellent design. I used it on all the Buccabury rolling stock (except the two cattle vans which use the larger Paul Windle couplings). It's ideal for the smaller wagons and perfect for the Dundas 'D' Type wagon bogies. I've never included the magnetic uncoupling facility but that's just me!

My own layout has always used a whole plethora of couplings but for scratchbuilt stock I've standardised on the Peco coupling. After the success of using them on Buccabury I started buying Greenwich ones with a view to converting my own stock - until I realised that the design of my wagon headstocks was matched to the Peco one and wouldn't allow the Greenwich to be fitted!

That said, I've used them on a number of kit-built wagons on me layout with great success.

The important thing is to standardise on one coupling type if you can and be very careful to set all the couplings to the same height. You can take that piece of advice from someone who didn't and hasn't respectively - and suffers the consequences!!!

[berryr99]

Well said.

Blaenau North stock will have Greenwich couplings as its standard.

Just about to start a large production run, now that I have sussed out how to make them - the You Tube video was a help, as was this forum.


Robert

[Tigger]

Once you get going they're dead easy to build. I'm lucky in that one of the pairs of pliers I use is just the right size for bending both sides of the coupling to the correct width. It's important to get all the legs and pivot holes in line so it all works smoothly and squarely.

[berryr99]

Further progress. I have now built 40 couplings in one long production run.

The voices have now stopped and I have stopped trembling !

Please can someone recommend an adhesive to stick the couplings onto rolling stock. I was thinking of thick Superglue - Zap-a-Gap medium but would Araldite be a suitable glue ?

Thanks

Robert

[Hugh Norwood]

I use the holes in the coupling shank and either brass wire or thread (or small BA screws) to hold them in place through holes in the floor of the rolling stock (or bogies)...

[berryr99]

I am fitting the couplings to rolling stock and getting the right height with very little problems at all.

However I have quite a number of Chris Ward 3d locos and the fitted coupling on those is too high for the stock.

At this stage the only solution I can see is to trim the coupling lug on the loco down a bit to reduce its height.

I was just wondering if there was a better way ?

Thanks

Robert

[Frank]

I find the coupling mouldings on Chris's locos quite fragile and break quite quickly (possibly because I have a five year old grandson) so I usually cut them off and fit Greenwich couplings (without the loops) at the correct height.  They usually look better too as they are smaller.

I fit them by cutting a slot through the buffer beam at the correct height (drill a series of small holes then join them up with a craft knife or piercing saw) then shortening the shank slightly and fixing the shank in the slot with epoxy.

Frank

[berryr99]

Thank you Frank, this is what I will try.

Robert