Chris Ward Tank - In Progress

[Graeme Dunbar]

I think that the key is what you use to attach the spectacle glasses to the model.

Johnson's Kear floor polish (as I understand it, basically thinned acrylic varnish) is/was renowned in the model making world for uses ranging from coating radio control aircraft canopies to various model railway ones.
http://georgedentmodelmaker.blogspot.co.uk/2013/01/klear-ing-things-up.html

I guess any good quality gloss acrylic varnish, suitably thinned will do.

Avoid Cyanoacrylate Superglue at all costs. It can leave a 'frosted' look to the surface.

There is also Micro Krystal Klear:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SZ_ggnLYkPM

If you are using thinned varnish to fix your 'glass', it doesn't matter if it gets on the visible surface 'glass'. Just make sure the whole surface has a thin covering and don't let dust get on it as it drys.

It's up to you whether you glue the spectacle plate to inside of the model or have the patience (and eyesight, and coordination) to cut tiny circles to size!

You might get away with using a desk hole punch to cut circles, but they tend to distort the plastic. A brand new one, never used on paper may be better. There are also leather punches (e.g. Hobbycraft) that are likely to be better.

As for plastic, then any good quality packaging should do it, or a sheet of overhead projector acetate (don't use the stuff for inkjet printers as the surface is not as glossy).

Edit: as always, practise on a piece of scrap first!

[cnw6847]

I would suggest either Krystal Kleer (as Graeme mentioned) or Deluxe's Glue and Glaze for the spectical glasses

[JulienW]

For 'real' glass look out for some microscope cover slides. Can be a bit of a sod to cut in a strait line, let alone get a curve.  The alternative would be to try one of the 'microglaze' tings - these are essentially a PVA glue that one uses to form a film over the window opening which then dries clear - I've used Delux Materials "Glue & Glaze" to good effect.

[Scott Rixon]

Oh.. I like the idea of microglaze :)

Google here I come!

[Scott Rixon]

Handrails are complete.. I've also test fitted the roof and the driver is have a play.

Focus is a little tight, but I was playing the the SLR :)

[Tom Haythornthwaite]

I hope I'll be able to make mine look even half as good!

[Scott Rixon]

Cheers Tom :) Going to push to finish it now.. I want to get the name plates on and some gloss varnish, then I'll decide if it wants to have a top coat of matt.

[Scott Rixon]

Is it finished??

Added the whistle, the driver and fireman are in and a little lead in the front. I've given it a coat of klear, with the intention of also having a 2nd coat of matt varnish, but I'm thinking it looks good as it is..

Comments?

[Hugh Norwood]

Very nice! Well done!

[Roy Parkes]

How did you fit the Kato chassis to the CW footplate?

[Andre Anderson]

Greetings,

I personally like a semi-gloss look, I have noticed that the real locos in Great Britain all were well kept. Wiped down and kept clean so a semi gloss shows just enough shine to look right.

Andre Anderson
Portland Oregon USA

[Scott Rixon]

Thanks.. She is still in the same condition as I still like it.. The kato chassis just drops in and I've used bluetac to hold it there

[David Prime]

Looks great . Maybe a small link to the whistle from the cab?

[rod335]

A point no one else seems to have made is, sorry, but the handrail is in the wrong place. If you think of the purpose oh handrails, to assist movement into or on the loco, this handrail is set too high. It would in reality be beside the cab opening, to assist climbing onto the footplate.

[Frank]

Rod,

You are no doubt correct about the position of the handrail, but in fairness to Scott, the print comes with "dimples" moulded in to the side of the cab indicating where to drill holes for the handrail knobs, and they are positioned as you can see them in the photos.   So the vast majority (including mine) have the handrails there.

Frank