• Welcome to 009 Society Members Forum.

A Gentleman's Light Sporting Design... 4-4-2T style

Started by Andy_Elms, October 30, 2008, 19:36

Previous topic - Next topic

pilotfriend

Mick, they are the best Pug bashes I have seen...where did you get the headlights?
JdF

Andy_Elms

Cheers guys. I'll give the existing motor a go.

MickT

Quote from: pilotfriend on March 14, 2009, 17:14
Mick, they are the best Pug bashes I have seen...where did you get the headlights?
JdF

Thank you John, accolades indeed but undeserved I have to say! I suppose I am going to have to spend some time raking through my snaps and sort out a selection of much better pugbashes than mine and by much better modellers than me! - I can already feel a new Fotopic set for my gallery coming on!!

In answer to your query about headlights, I made them myself, my finances do not run to such indulgences as forking out for luxuries! They are actually very crude - a block of 4 x 80thou bits of square section plastic rod, a pug valve gear pin on top for the lamp top and the lens is made from one x jewel from a string of them that you can get from haberdashery/soft furnishings/needlecraft type shops (if you are still able to track one down in your area!) - you can buy strings of such jewellery brilliants already in their mountings at so much for a foot length. For 2 or 3 pounds (Yes I do have to purchase some items!) you can obtain sufficient brilliants for about 200 loco headlamps. The advantage of using these things is that the plastic/nylon type mounting that they are set into form the lens casing of the lamp without additional work required - I used to mount brilliants into slices of brass tubing before I discovered these. To finish off, a strip of gold sellotape is glued around the rim and the front end of the rim is touched in with a Pilot very fine gold marker.

If you can get hold of very small brilliants from this type of source, they can be used for all sorts of modelling uses - such as lamps on brakevans - no need to search for coloured brilliants - just go over it with a Staedler Lumocolour or Stabilo finepoint permanent marker pen - I find the type intended for writing on Overhead Projector film is the best - this will give you a transparent "ruby" that still reflects light.

Now I think we should return to the subject of this thread - apologies for partially hijacking it!

Mick

Andy_Elms

No problem Mick, I've been meaning to replace the headlight on my SLGR Hunslet to an more traditional outline and this sounds just right. Will have to put one on the 4-4-2 too... So it was on topic.

For an update on progress, cf thread on Replacement Gears. If the worst comes to the worst I may mod the Farish Jinty motor, worm and block from the bits box, it fits quite nicely.

Andy_Elms

Slight lack of progress reports on this front due to.. err.. lack of progress. Painting the front room is taking preference.

But, I thought I'd share with you a size comparison I came up with:


Although I'm halfway through the plasticard-body-and-bashed-chassis, I found out at last years Expong that Branchlines do a resin 0415 (top picture) body. They also do a details kit for IoM BP locos - so bigger dome and stack would be available. Farish compund 4-4-0 wheels 'n' rods 'n' axles are available from BR Lines (ta for rapid reply Bob!).

I suppose I'll just have to build two...