Chassis Thoughts

[rod335]

Sorry Brian, in my experience the noise in an N drive chassis is solely due to part lines on the worm, which you cannot see, caused by the molding process. Once these have worn off one way or another these chassis are very smooth and quiet. As far as I can see meshing of gears has little to do with the noise. I have never adjusted the mesh on mine and after some extensive running they quieten down of their own accord. I would very strongly suggest that purchasers DO NOT attempt to alter the gear mesh, they will not cure the noise and will probably only cause irreversible damage.

Rod

[Graeme Dunbar]

Scott, if you are not wedded to the idea of an 0-4-0 steam loco with the motion visible but are simply looking for a small loco then the Kato tram chassis is excellent. There is a good variety of kits to put on it as mentioned. The Bachmann Plymouth diesel switcher is another reliable chassis and again there are kits for it, but all diesels and no steam tram locos as far as I know.

Getting more adventurous and perhaps not for the beginner (if you are one) is the RT chassis conversion for the Bachmann/Farish class 08, giving an 0-6-0, not an 0-4-0, but with all the "clanky bits" showing.
http://www.rtmodels.co.uk/rt_models_013.htm

[B.Meldon]

Sorry Brian, in my experience the noise in an N drive chassis is solely due to part lines on the worm, which you cannot see, caused by the molding process. Once these have worn off one way or another these chassis are very smooth and quiet. As far as I can see meshing of gears has little to do with the noise. I have never adjusted the mesh on mine and after some extensive running they quieten down of their own accord. I would very strongly suggest that purchasers DO NOT attempt to alter the gear mesh, they will not cure the noise and will probably only cause irreversible damage.

Rod

That is interesting Rod.

It is not the gear mesh Rod, as you say that is correct and should not be changed I thought it was more about vibration rather than gear mesh.

In each case I have found that securing the front end of the motor stops the noise instantly.
But perhaps as you say as the chassis beds in the need for this is eliminated.

In your experience approximately how much use is needed for the chassis to quieten down Rod?
Or do you do something to the worm gear?

Brian Meldon

[rod335]

It is very difficult lapping gears made of any synthetic material, I think these are delron, and the material has a sort of 'give'. If you look at composite gear sets, it is always the metal gear which shows signs of wear. I think the synthetic gear just 'moves' instead of wearing. However, back to the N drive gears. Although some will view it as heresy, I have used T-cut or similar on these gears which seems to, eventually, quieten them down. I have had some 'uncleaned' gears from Neville and it was only after looking at these I realised how they are molded with longitudinal part-lines. Neville cleans them by running a spiral cutter down the teeth which obviously removes most of the flash but leaves very close lines in the teeth. It is these, I think, that cause the in initial noise. Once they are removed, the chassis is quiet. There do not appear to be any problems with either the wormwheels or the spur gears driving the wheels. The chassis, if you can get them, are well designed and engineered and vastly different from the 'built to a price' pieces of junk they replace.

Rod

[B.Meldon]

I do wonder how long it would take, (if ever?) for the chassis to bed in on its own if you did not use the t-cut as a grinding paste and how  the use of t-cut in this way would effect any warrantee?

As I said I have found that the noise stops instantly if the front of the motor is secured or held in place with the body, perhaps you or others have had similar or different experience of this happening, or it could just be me?

I do agree that the N-drive chassis are far better quality to the Bachman and Ibertren chassis, but I have always found the quality of the Fleischmann and Arnold chassis to be very good as well. (Apart from the first of the Arnold 0-6-0

[Scott Rixon]

I like the 08 conversion idea.. Plenty on ebay too!

And the Kato looks nice... Cheap too.

http://www.gaugemaster.com/item_details.asp?code=K11-104&r=1

[Graeme Dunbar]

It is very difficult lapping gears made of any synthetic material, I think these are delron, and the material has a sort of 'give'. If you look at composite gear sets, it is always the metal gear which shows signs of wear. I think the synthetic gear just 'moves' instead of wearing.

I am not sure I have fallen for a "myth" but I thought the harder one of a pair of materials wore the most due to abrasive particles embedding themselves in the softer material and grinding away at the harder one.

[rod335]

Graeme

I did say 'think', I very freely admit I do not understand this principle at all. Any genuine enlightenment anyone can shed on it will be most welcome.

Rod