Glen Ogle

[gtmspyder]

Hello Gerhard, that's extremely kind of you to offer.

The motor wants to be 10 mm in diameter or less, and 10 to 12mm long in the body, with a shaft diam. of 0.5 to 1.5mm in diameter.

I can find no motors of those kind of dimensions on EBay.

The alternative, certainly for the circular saw drive, would have to be fixed below the base board, and probably belt drive, as gears would be difficult due to the logistics of the gears plus thickness of the base board plus half the diameter of the motor.

I am looking at a reduced geared, motor and gearbox.  The gearbox shaft output diameter is 2mm, and the saw blade shaft is 0.5mm, so two pulleys and a rubber band might be the answer???

Any way, thank you for your offer, as per the Tesco advert, "Every little helps". ;D

Regards,

BrianT.

[Gerhard Novak]

Brian,

As discussed:
Can motor, brushed, approx. 5V operating voltage.
Diameter 10mm
length 14mm
shaft (rather short, probably 3 mm) 1.0mm diameter
motor by Gerhard Novak, on Flickr

For a belt drive you would need something really thin as a belt. Probably a cotton thread.
If needed I can make a grooved wheel for the belt drive.

I am sure direct drive would be possible.

Send me a PM if you want it. As the servo was broken there is no cost.

Regards
Gerhard

[gtmspyder]

Good  morning Gerhard.
Apologies for the delay in contacting you, but for some reason, I cant get onto my windows live mail account to monitor or send emails, and I have several items that will require attention on there. ::)

Your offer is extremely generous, and I would like to take you up on it if I may.

I might be able to couple it as a direct drive using heat shrink tubing, or if that is not possible, a small pulley mounted onto the motor shaft and a below baseboard fixing would certainly be possible.  I have some 2mm neoprene drive belt that I can cut and superglue to size as a drive belt.

I also have some large drive pulleys on order from EBay, which is why I need to get back on the internet ASAP, I will have to wait for my son to call and sort me out, my computer skills are minimal, and this windows 10, I can't make head nor tail of it. :-[

Kind regards.

BrianT.

[B.Meldon]

Perhaps some of the part Nigel Lawton sells would be of use:

http://www.nigellawton009.com/PayPalMotors.html

Brian Meldon

[Gerhard Novak]

First to Brian Twigg:

Please send me a PM with your address so I can post you the motor. (don't put it on the forum, we never know who reads it)
Direct drive with a hot shrink sleeve may work. In any case I can also put a pulley wheel into the envelope. Just tell me the diameter. Manufacturing that will not delay my current station -build as I always have to wait for the paint to dry anyway....  :)
By the way - for very fine drive belts I go for a balloon-preferably in a dark colour - and cut a small strip off. It is very elastic and seamless.



Then to Brian Meldon: Thanks for the link, this is a very interesting & useful web-site.

[gtmspyder]

Hello again Gerhard.

As soon as I have access to my internet, I Email you with my details.

In the meantime, the pulley will require to be very small as I presume the RPM of the motor will be quite high, even on a reduced voltage, so let's say 6mm at the root of the pulley..

I like the idea of the balloon drive belt, I can see me acquiring a selection of small balloons. ;D

I'll be in touch when I'm up and running on the 'net.
'
The other Brian, thank you for the link to Nigel Lawton's site

Kind regards to you both,

BrianT

[Gerhard Novak]

The pulley wheel came out nicely. Diameter is 6mm, groove is 1mm wide and 1.2mm deep. I made a test run, the wheel runs true. The wheel is just a press fit. If you prefer direct drive you can remove it by carefully pulling it off (best with some tweezers or a small screwdriver from behind the wheel)

IMGP5391 by Gerhard Novak, on Flickr

The motor runs already with 1.2V (single cell NiMh). I tried to give the wheel a bit the shape of a cast iron wheel - of course you have to change the colour.

IMGP5392 by Gerhard Novak, on Flickr

[gtmspyder]

Gerhard, you are a star of the first order, thank you very much, now I just need access to my internet,.

My son will be visiting in the morning, bringing our 14 month old grandson who we look after on a Wednesday and a Thursday, hope fully he will sort me out, that's my son, not his son, although the speed children learn about computers nowadays, I don't suppose it will be long before he's getting involved. ::)

Here's a little update on the point I have had to make in situ.



The inner stock rail has been bent to form the start of the point, and extended to complete the length of the goods out siding.



The outer stock rail I did not cut, but cleared all the Peco sleepers that were still attached, out of the way.



I then made the crossing "V" and soldered it in place, and joined the extended ends to the appropriate stock rails.



The straight switch blade was next made and laid in place.



With a test run of some stock traversed across the "V" to check for a smooth crossing.

And that's about as far as I've got for tonight, sleepy sickness has crept up on me once again.

Regards,

BrianT.

[Gerhard Novak]

I like that - Ii have never seen a point being built directly where it needs to be! Looking forward how you make the switchblades moveable.

By the way - couldn't resist - before I put the motor into an envelope - it looks too modern for your sawmill. So I made a small brass sleeve for it. Looks better...

IMGP5398 by Gerhard Novak, on Flickr

And it stands on the floor now. To see the size I have put some guys next to it. Well - we are on a different scale - these guys are H0 - so they are slightly smaller than 009-ers would be. But still - looking at the size of the motor I suppose it has approximately 100kW.... or in more understandable units 136 HP...  :)

Is in its envelope now.
regards  Gerhard

[gtmspyder]

Wow Gerhard, that's brilliant, it looks too good to hide below the base board with a belt drive, we will have to see what can be done.

This is supposed to be the generator for the site, so it's size and pretend output is probably appropriate, I hope the single cylinder steam engine can start it ::)

Many many thanks for your help, and I look forward to the post man coming.

Kind regards,

BrianT.

[gtmspyder]

One parcel received Gerhard and thank you once again, not been able to do anything with it yet accept to admire your handiwork as I've been backwards and forwards to the hospital today,  with the good help of my neighbours.

Another scan of my chest required for some reason, this was a late call this afternoon, saying they had a slot due to a cancellation.  This morning was a two hour slot for Physiotherapy which really knocked me about.

The point blades I'm going to operate with Fairy dust and cross my fingers ;)

regards,

BrianT.

[gtmspyder]

More work done on the Glen Ogle  wood yard.



The insitu point build is now finished and just waiting for it's point motor, the back scene has had some builders foam sprayed onto it to form the cliff face.  The small pieces of foam at the base of the cliff with a black cross on them, are the pieces of foam I have previously cut off the cliff above.



A closer look at the finished, in situ built point, now ballasted along with most of the plain track on view.



The single cylinder steam drive engine is now driving an alternator, coloured in fetching black.  This motor, very generously donated and modified for me by Gerhard of this forum, is now coupled directly to the steam engine crankshaft via a small piece of shrink wrap, and drives the crankshaft at unheard of speeds when 1.2volts is applied ;D

More views of the scenic foam, sprayed onto the back scene.







Regards,

BrianT.

[gtmspyder]

Next job is to splash a bit of polyfiller onto the foam to make it look more like rock.

Regards,

BrianT.

[Gerhard Novak]

coming back to your in-situ point. So I understands it works by elastic bending of the rails - are they bending that easily?
What point motor are you using?
There will be a constant force from the blades to go back into a certain position. A normal point motor would be pushed back by the force of the blades. Is it a point motor using a screw drive you are using?

Sorry - many questions - but I try to learn something...

Regards

Gerhard

[gtmspyder]

The point motor I think I am going to use is this old Fulgerex, which has a geared drive and should have no problem driving the switch blades across.



Most of the other point motors on Glen Ogle are either Peco or old H&M driving the Peco points which have the snap action.

Should the Fulgerex motor not be able to move the switch blades, then I will cut the blades near to the frog crossing, and fit two fishplates, but I'm sure the Fulgerex motor will be upto the job.

This method of relying on the springiness of the switch blades to accept the movement, has been tried and tested many times before in 00 points and normal N gauge points by myself, but this little narrow gauge points has very short switch blades, so there is not as much springiness, but we will see.

I hope this is of some help Gerhard?

Regards,

BrianT.