Underlay/trackbed

[rhobat bryn]

Fisrtly, I have seen too much distorted track when pins are used.

The main reason is that I like to set track with my eye at rail level, (just like a real track foreman). This prevents any small kink or kick in the track. I use 20 minute epoxy so I have the time to get the track looking 'just so'.

Many thanks for the explanation.  Something else to add to the 'bear it in mind for the future' list.

[Graeme Dunbar]

I glue my track down, but in defence of the "pinners", I understand that the way some people do it is to make sure the holes in the track are big enough for "clearance fit" for the pins and then push them in only just enough to hold the track in place. Both precautions are to ensure the track does not distort. Some advocate drilling two holes near the ends of a sleeper and not one in the centre of a sleeper for similar reasons.

There may even be people who tack the track down temporarily with pins, ballast, and then remove the pins.

I might change my tune if I have to replace any points, but gluing track down seems simpler, especially as I don't use softer baseboard materials like Sundeala that accepts pins more easily.

[Hobby]

Yep, I'm one of the "drillers"... Though I think I forgot to remove the pins on SB... Must check!  :o

[Tigger]

"...The main reason is that I like to set track with my eye at rail level, (just like a real track foreman). This prevents any small kink or kick in the track. I use 20 minute epoxy so I have the time to get the track looking 'just so'..."

An excellent practice.  When we were building 'Happisburgh' Dave Reed did just this and produced some beautiful sweeping curves.

On the 7

[pilotfriend]

"Yep, I'm one of the "drillers"... " ..................... Driller Killer! ;D

Eye level track laying is the only way (or with mirrors as suggested). If I need to just tack a bit of track before using epoxy, I use superglue with accelerator. I glue every two sleepers at their ends only)

[B.Meldon]

We always pin the track down and the sleepers are all pre drilled.
We also pre-bend all the curves. This takes a lot of time but ensures that there are minimal sideways forces on the rail chairs or rail joints. The rail is removed from the sleepers, bent into shape and then threaded back on the sleepers again before it is laid. Very careful preparation of the wooden track bed is vital. This starts when selecting the wood. When ballasted using the pva method the track is additionally secured as well, but the parts of the layout that are not ballasted are fixed down with the pins only. Maybe it is because we pre bend all the curves, but we do not have any problems with distorted track and in some cases the track is exactly where it was laid some 30 years later. On the other hand I have seen track that was glued down come unstuck with the passage of time, but again this is probably down to the glue used.

One other advantage of using pins is that prior to ballasting it is easy to lift and re-position the track if you need to do so.

Clearly both the glue and the pin system can be successful, so I guess it is just down to personal choice.

Just to recap on what has already been said no mater what system you use to fix the track down the track laying has to be absolutely perfect in 009, accept no compromises on this, it must be without any kinks, dips, lumps or joint steps.

Brian Meldon

[pilotfriend]

Peco track laid on Sundeala after storage in your garage. ::)