Wiring Peco 009 points

[MickT]

I am moved to add a further comment to this thread:
I'm definitely no soldering expert as anyone who has seen my efforts will endorse, however I have to add to previous bits of advice posted here regarding using single strand wire (aka "bell wire").

I agree it is fine - however this is dependant upon what it is going to be used for. If the wire will in any way move, and I suspect that using it to bond moving point blades will result in some movement, then my advice is to always use multi-strand. Single strand will appear fine at first, but given sufficient time and repetitions of the movement it will surely fracture and will result in an absolute pig of a continuity problem to track down.

Multi-strand wire may appear to be more difficult to solder, but if you twist the bared ends and then tin them, the end of the wire takes on the same property as a bit of single strand, but the overall length of wire retains the strength and flexibilty of multi-strand. You know it makes sense if you think about it..... innit?

Mick

[stevefulljames]

Definitely a good point Mick (pun not intended). In this case I'm adding the wires on to the stock rails and frog so hopefully movement won't be a problem.

Here's a photo of my wired up turnout, the wires will run over the top of the board to the operating switch so it was important to solder them on the right way round!

[Graeme Dunbar]

I am moved to add a further comment to this thread:
I'm definitely no soldering expert as anyone who has seen my efforts will endorse, however I have to add to previous bits of advice posted here regarding using single strand wire (aka "bell wire").

I agree it is fine - however this is dependant upon what it is going to be used for. If the wire will in any way move, and I suspect that using it to bond moving point blades will result in some movement, then my advice is to always use multi-strand. Single strand will appear fine at first, but given sufficient time and repetitions of the movement it will surely fracture and will result in an absolute pig of a continuity problem to track down.

Agreed. The problem occurs when a sharp bend is put in the wire and this is subject to repeated movement. Often the failure happens at a soldered joint because this where the opportunity for a sharp bend is most likely but the same would happen if rigid strain relief was provided next to the joint. Hence single strand wire is fine if it routed and held down along its length (like bell wire) or kept out of harms way in conduit or between walls (like mains wiring).

Multi-strand wire may appear to be more difficult to solder, but if you twist the bared ends and then tin them, the end of the wire takes on the same property as a bit of single strand, but the overall length of wire retains the strength and flexibilty of multi-strand. You know it makes sense if you think about it..... innit?

... but don't tin multistrand wire that goes into screw terminal blocks. If you must, then just solder the very tip as if you were sealing the end of a nylon rope with a match to stop it fraying. If you tin the bare end and screw it down the metal will "creep" and work loose which can be dangerous if mains is involved.

Even stranded wire will fail at a soldered joint if "waggled" enough times (i.e. more likely than if it was not soldered). Effectively you have a solid wire at the joint, so you are back to square one. Strain relief helps - perhaps just a dab of hot melt glue or a cable tie. (They can cause problems too, pinching the wire, but that is another story!) Waggling wires is a big problem. Take a look at a (clothes) iron (careful you could end up doing the ironing  ;) ) or a soldering iron. They have flexible strain relief to stop too sharp a bend being put in the wire where it will be waggled constantly.

[Hobby]

[... but don't tin multistrand wire that goes into screw terminal blocks. If you must, then just solder the very tip as if you were sealing the end of a nylon rope with a match to stop it fraying. If you tin the bare end and screw it down the metal will "creep" and work loose which can be dangerous if mains is involved.

Never knew that! I've always tinned it! But its all been low voltage use! I find that our friends in the IT or Telecom business can usually come up with small multicore wire, and in all different coloured wrappings all wrapped up in a grey tube!  :D

Steve, I like the way the point was wired - did you glue the end sleepers or were they stable enough without?

[stevefulljames]

Steve, I like the way the point was wired - did you glue the end sleepers or were they stable enough without?

No, they're fine. The angles of the diverging rails keep everything secure enough until the turnout is fixed down.

[Tigger]

Just wanted to agree and endorse Graeme's comment.  Multistrand wired entering a screw terminal block or wrapped around a stud as in a 13A plug should NEVER be tinned first.  Always twist them and the action of screwing down on the multistrand crushes it, gives a greater surface contact area and more chance for the screw to lock properly.  A tinned end won't do that.

Been reading this string with great interest because my layout's ancient turnouts still rely on the blades only and desperately needs something to ensure the points actually carry the traction current!

Tigger.