Rolling Stock Roofs and Finishes

[berryr99]

I am making (finally) some of the Hudson Toast Rack coaches. I would like to improve the finish on the roofs and I had vague recollections of placing tissue paper on roof to give a better texture after painting.

However, I can't get this to work as the tissue paper wrinkles up across the roof when I put PVA (either neat or diluted on it), and it stays wrinkled after drying.

I'm using single ply paper handkerchief paper.

I have also tried masking tape but this was not too successful either, giving an appearance like black vinyl when painted with matt black.

Just wondering what I am doing wrong, could anyone help please ?

Thanks

Robert Berry

[JulienW]

I think that the problem is that you are using PVA.

My method is much the same as yours - using a single ply from a paper hankie - but I fix mine using the solvent adhesive (MEK or one of the other common ones). I lay the tissue on the roof and then paint on the solvent, using my fingers to gently keep the paper taught as it is brushed down. The trick is to try to keep your fingertips clear of the 'glued' tissue and not mark the sides of the coach with the solvent or solventy fingers.

The advantage of using the solvent to fix the tissue is that once it has dried one can add the curved rain strips using thin micro strip which can also be stuck with solvent - attach one end of the strip then curve it with the fingers as you paint the solvent on working from the stuck end.

It's one of those things that hard to describe without pictures!

If you are clever you could mark some roof planks (these run from one end to the other) and tear holes in the canvas (tissue) to show the roof structure underneath. Charlie Insley has done this on a few of his wagons so it might be worth looking for photos on the inter web of the ones he has done.

Be careful with some of the 'bent bit of thin sheet" roofs supplied with some kits as the large(ish) amounts of solvent can warp them, and when cutting the tissue go for a piece initially over size with a view to folding some over the edges of the roof.

Hope that helps!

[berryr99]

Thanks Julien, I will do some test pieces on the suggested lines.

I 'll check my own photos as well as the web for Charlie's roofs, as this is good idea.

Robert

[clayliner]

I guess if you are after elderly 'weathered' stock then some wrinkles and tears are not a problem, but not so good if you want something smarter.

David.

[MickT]

I've done all my "wooden, roofing felt covered" wagon roofs in the way that Julien describes above.

Some supplementary info: Single ply toilet paper in my case (not the type that puppy dogs unreel on the TV commercials or the padded ones with flowers and things embossed on the sheets!). Hold it firmly but gently over the roof by pulling it taught but not so taught it may tear, and keep it firmly in this position by holding the piece of stock in your hand roof upwards and maintain tension either side with thumb and fingers.

Paint liquid poly on (I prefer this as it takes a little longer to "set" than MEKpack type solvent) and then do it again, ensuring that you have covered the whole surface including the edges of the roof. Keep hold of it for a few minutes and then when it feels relatively firm and welded to the plasticard roof (I use 20 thou without probs but always have a supporting "beam" under the roof to stop it sagging), put it to one side and leave it for at least a couple of hours, preferrably overnight.

Then trim round the edges with a sharp scalpel. As long as you leave it for a few hours the tissue will have gone quite hard and it will be easy to trim right up to the roof edge with the scalpel without tearing the tissue.

Don't forget to paint the roof afterwards - I use Humbrol panzer grey whatever number that is - otherwise you will end up with a row of vans or coaches with pink, white or yellow roofs!

Hope this helps

Mick

[garrywhiting]

Only done this a couple of times,---- I used the "tissue paper" that my late father used to cover balsa wood frame flying model aircraft,  I inherited about a dozen lifetimes supply in various colours and grades.  This paper may have been called Japanese silk paper (??) and is probably still obtainable from  retailers that supply the flying model aircraft hobby.

Garry

[berryr99]

All,

Many thanks for the help and advice.

I have tried the MEK technique and it worked really well, not wrinkling and I kept the paper taut and managed to keep the solvent off the body sides. It has painted up a treat and looks good.

I will now try it with liquid poly as well. I can get some model aircraft tissue paper from my friend so will try that as well.

Robert

[Andre Anderson]

Greetings,

I basically do it the same way as the above posters but I use the paint as the adhesive instead.

Andre