Glues

[Mike Griff]

Hi guys,
I've been using Humbrol Precision Poly Cement, its good on the plasticard but i need to find something for sticking drawing pin heads to plasticard, do you find it necessary to you an Aroldite type glue for this kind of op? Mike

[Graeme Dunbar]

You can try Cyanoacrylate "superglue", but I find that polystyrene/plasticard can make this stuff go off too quickly. You could also try Bostic/UHU type contact adhesive. Epoxy (Araldite/Devcon etc) is good too and would give you plenty of time to position the drawing pin

I guess it is all down to personal preference - stick half a dozen drawing pins to scraps of plasticard and see what glues suits you best.

The good thing about Araldite is that it lasts for years (so long as you don't mix the caps), but I don't think I have ever managed to finish a bottle of superglue before it went off. Perhaps I should try keeping it in "tupperware" type airtight container with silica gel sachets in it?

[Hugh Norwood]

There was some traffic on the HOn30 egroup a year or two ago on keeping cyanoacrylate glue workable. Apparently, you should keep it in the fridge! (Can't say what the domestic authorities would say!)

I have two problems with CA glues:
1) the top eventually sticks to the container and I cant get it off
2) I have developed an allergy to the fumes so I haveto be careful using it.

[Graeme Dunbar]

Yes, alergy or not, the fumes are potent and knowing what it does to fingers I hate to think what it might do to lungs. The glue may have medical uses but still best to be used with caution.

[Mike Griff]

Yes, I,m a bit chesty Morgan once said and the Humbrol can be a challenge sometimes. Bigger coat and open more windows i think. Ta lads. Mike

[MickT]

For Epoxy glues I always use the "rapid" types and prefer Devcon when I can get it as it is easy to mix, and is clear, unlike eg Araldite Rapid which has the consistency and colour of mud. (I would have said snot as that is a closer mix, but this is a family show isn't it?)

However I rarely use Epoxy nowadays and except for the polystyrene sticking jobs that can be handled by liquid poly or MEK solvents, I nearly always use Superglue Gel, or if you can get hold of it a preferred version is Vital Bond, which comes in, I think, 4 consistencies. I use Thick which is very close to Gel in thickness and takes about 10 to 20 seconds to go off, so you have time to adjust. My current bottle is a 20g one that I got from Squires about a year ago for

[Mike Griff]

Thanks Mick.

[pilotfriend]

On modelling contracts, I get to use vast quantities of superglue, both gel and liquid. Generally, the fumes do not seem to be too noxious unless one then uses a Dremel sanding kit on it. Extraction or outside is best then.
I also use many cans of aerosol accelerator and this will give you bronchitis for a year unless you are careful.
JdF

[Mike Griff]

JdF,
THANKS for the warning on that, i just got out of the local hospital for chesty stuff AGAIN so i need to be aware of this stuf as everyone else should be. Very gratefull for the heads up from all you guys. Mike

[John Mudd]

Re Cynoacrylate glues:

Before you start to use it, put a generous dolup of vaseline into the cap with a cotton bud. It does not react with the glue and will stop the glue adhering to the top. Also you must NEVER inhale the fumes. They are toxic and can cause hardening of the windpipe and lungs in excess.

To make the glue go off more quickly on your joint, breathing out over it with your moist breath, will speed it up appreciably without weekening the joint.

John Mudd

[Graeme Dunbar]

Thanks for the tips John! I do the first one, but the Vaseline one is new to me. I will try it. It is frustrating to have to throw away bottles that are otherwise fine.

Acetone (and possibly nail varnish remover) is good for removing Cyanoacrylate glue as it does the opposite to "huffing" on the joint and removes the moisture from set glue I understand.

[JulienW]

That's correct.

(now for the science bit) ::)

Essentially super glue (cyanoacrylate) works in much the same way as epoxy adhesives (Araldite) in that it is a 2 parts process, it is just that the 'hardener' is water so it cures by reacting wioth the moisture in the air.  To break the bond you need to remove the water from it, and acetone does this very well.  I soak cotton woll in the acetone, wrap it raround the joint and then cover it with clingfilm to trap the acetone vapour around the joint.

Heat is another way to break the bond, but this also tends to break down the superglue too to procuce cyanaide as a vapour  :o

[clanky]

have you tried SHOP4GLUE they have odourless and fume free superglue , I pinged that on the 'ngaugeforum' . can,t do links I afraid  :-[. cheers john .