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Eggerbahn #3 (Electric) Loco

Started by Stephen Rainsbury, July 09, 2021, 16:05

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cp.409067

Quote from: B.Meldon on July 12, 2021, 18:19
Quote from: cp.409067 on July 12, 2021, 16:58

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.....  a coreless motor with flywheel .....

CP


The main problem with using these motors is that they do not work at all well with the feedback controllers that make the Egger locos with the original motors run so much better than other controllers. So great if you change all of them, but not good if you run a mix of old and new.

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Yes, I completely agree with this comment. Feedback controllers are so very good with non-coreless motors.

The KPC "switched feedback" type might be the answer.

In the short term, using a KPC to run coreless motors with the feedback switched down/out (whichever it is) seems on the basis of limited experimentation to be effective. However, any information as to the effect of long term running would be useful and appreciated.

This matter has been discussed on more than one accasion on NGRMonLine and as far as I can see there has been no definitive answer based on long term experience.


CP
Christopher Payne
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Stephen Rainsbury

Quote from: B.Meldon on July 12, 2021, 18:19
The main problem with using these motors is that they do not work at all well with the feedback controllers that make the Egger locos with the original motors run so much better than other controllers. So great if you change all of them, but not good if you run a mix of old and new.

Thanks, that is good information. In practice I am planning to go DCC, in which case the issue should be taken care of.

The issue I have is paying £30 for a "collectable" loco that will only get used once or twice a year. In some 00 gauge locos you can plug and unplug the decoder and swap it between locos.  That will be possible on some of my larger locos, but ironically I expect these to be the most commonly used ones so I wouldn't want to swap them.

In practice I will probably have to make at least one of my layouts operable on DC or DCC so this info about cored and coreless will be very useful.

Stephen
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Stephen

Stephen Rainsbury

I agree you can normally squash something in, but the compromise is that you sometimes have to allow it, or something else to be more visible.

My early experiments have already shown that different locos respond differently to different decoders, and I think it was Charlie at Chadwick Model railway that showed changing the decoder for a seemingly identical one could produce different results.

My plan there would be to build up a configuration library for each loco with each decoder that it was used with and then just dump it to the programming track. I haven't quite worked out the software details, but as they say on Top Gear "How hard can it be?"  ;D
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Stephen

duttonbay

Quote from: Stephen Rainsbury on July 12, 2021, 22:21
My plan there would be to build up a configuration library for each loco with each decoder that it was used with and then just dump it to the programming track. I haven't quite worked out the software details, but as they say on Top Gear "How hard can it be?"  ;D
That's called Decoder Pro. https://www.jmri.org/help/en/html/apps/DecoderPro/index.shtml

B.Meldon

Quote from: Stephen Rainsbury on July 12, 2021, 21:07
Quote from: B.Meldon on July 12, 2021, 18:19
The main problem with using these motors is that they do not work at all well with the feedback controllers that make the Egger locos with the original motors run so much better than other controllers. So great if you change all of them, but not good if you run a mix of old and new.

In practice I will probably have to make at least one of my layouts operable on DC or DCC so this info about cored and coreless will be very useful.

Stephen

It is not just 'coreless' motors that have issues, the newer low current motors like the N20 motor used by Minitrians and many others are not so good with feedback controllers.  These N20 motors are conventional fixed magnet three pole motors with precious metal wipers in place of brushes, they also take far less current than traditional motors. When I use these I try and stick to the 24-volt versions that appear to be better than the 12-volt versions in regard to heating up (and I guess eventualy burning out) with use.
Brian Meldon

Stephen Rainsbury

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Stephen