N-Drive

[Richard Pike]

Looking on the N-Drive website they list a kit for Bagnall Central 0-4-0.

Has anyone made one of these kits or got any experience with N-drive chassis?

[Hobby]

Not with the kit, but the chassis is excellent, though there's a long lead-in time to get one!

[JulienW]

I must say that it is a very nice little loco which is on my wish-list.

I've seen the pre-production sample on Neville's stand a few times, and one of the local group members built one, but I'm not sure that he is a forum member though.

Chatting to him about it at a pre-lockdown group meeting when his example was running on the test track there doesn't seem to be any issues with building the kit - it's a straightforward set of white metal castings that shouldn't be too taxing to build, much like the Chivers/Five79 kits (and don't forget there is the collective expertise of this forum to call on if you get stuck). Like the old Chivers kits there may not be a wealth of detail (it is a fairly basic kit) so you might want to add things like pipe work and handrails from thin wire, maybe a brass whistle, some of the bits (small loco jack, electric headlights and turbo generator) from RT models... really as much (or as little) as you like to customise the basic kit to make your subtlety different from the rest.

As to the chassis I've got a few of Neville's chassis and they do run very well, though if you are going down the DCC route I'm not sure how easy his standard chassis is to convert and it's probably worth specifying a DCC compatible chassis (this has leads between the motor and pick ups that the chip can be hard-wired into, whereas the standard chassis used the etched side frames to carry the current to the motor).

Hope that helps, Richard

Edit: There might be a photo of David Churchill's model somewhere in the West Mids group's thread (or a link to the same).

[David Churchill]

I am a member of this forum although perhaps I should be ashamed to admit that I only very occasionally look at it.

As Julien said, I have built a N Drive Bagnall kit and a couple of pictures might be of interest.

https://flic.kr/p/2jqFmzu

https://flic.kr/p/2jqFmAm

This is of the kit assembled exactly as it comes without any addition or extra detail. 
The kit comprises white metal castings with a ready to run chassis. Assembly was simple - I soldered mine but using adhesives would not be a problem.  The parts fitted well, didn't need much cleaning up and the instructions provided were very complete and clear.

It is probably the first new whitemetal kit to fit a ready to run chassis which has been introduced for a good number of years. Assembling it took me back a few years and  brought to mind just how enjoyable it can be to have, quite quickly, a working loco with a basic (and heavy) body. It can then be personalised by adding detail to your heart's content. Researching and adding detail is the part of a build which I find most satisfying.

Comments.
This loco is very small.  The length over buffer beams is 44.3mm, driving wheels 7mm dismater on 11.7mm wheelbase. Despite this, the cab is clear but as the pictures show there is a piece of the motor visible in front of the side tanks. However when painted black together with the boiler, this will be hardly noticeable and will be further concealed when I add clack valves and injectors and associated pipework.
The N Drive chassis , as with every one I have had, performs very well, although it is somewhat noisy in one direction. Its slow running is particularly good.
Among the additions that I am adding is:
Replace the thick cab roof with a new one from brass sheet / Add injectors with associated pipework etc. Also whistle / Some more cab detail. /
Fill in empty section of frame at back of chassis.....................................etc

I am really pleased with it and with what it cost.  I'm not sure what Neville's delivery times are like at the moment - you do often need to be patient.

[B.Meldon]

The noisy running in one direction is as a result of having the motor mounting screws at the far end of the motor to the worm drive.
There is nouthing wrong it is just vibration.
However this can be cured by packing above the motor so it is a tight fit in whatever body it is going in to. This stops the vibration and the noise.
As I said it is not a fault as such, it is just a feature of the design.