Chris Ward 009 Baldwin

[B.Meldon]

You may have already had this thought (sorry if you have) but it might be worthwhile to do something about the gap between the front of the Farish chassis and the Baldwin's cylinders, as on the real loco this space would be filled with the loco frames (bar frames were used on the WD Baldwins afaik).

I wonder if that's why the smoke box is sitting low, as the frames would extend to the front buffer beam and provide a bit of depth between the underside of the front footplate and the topside of the bogie that currently is not there.

Well Julien there is actually quite a big empty gap on the prototype behind the cylinders!

The top of the bar frames are below the level of the top of the driving wheels (the spring hangers are slightly above) and the frames then thin more between the front driving wheel and the cylinder casting. The end result is that you can see quite a lot of daylight through the loco behind the cylinders under the boiler.

There is another large visible gap below the boiler between the tanks and the cab. but this is where the GF motor is on this model.

Brian Meldon

[Brian Mosby]

You may have already had this thought (sorry if you have) but it might be worthwhile to do something about the gap between the front of the Farish chassis and the Baldwin's cylinders, as on the real loco this space would be filled with the loco frames (bar frames were used on the WD Baldwins afaik).

I wonder if that's why the smoke box is sitting low, as the frames would extend to the front buffer beam and provide a bit of depth between the underside of the front footplate and the topside of the bogie that currently is not there.

once i have the powered chassis i will be filling the gap

edit
looking at drawings there is a gap there  as Brian says there should be a gap from the Cylinders to the cab under the boiler

[Brian Mosby]

Julien,

What is missing, is the cylinder moulding, which will fill this area. I recall that Brian is using the RT resin ones, with the "working" valve gear, so this is yet to come. You are correct that the cylinders will help set the height of the front.

you only use the etch from RT models not the cast replacment cylinders for the Gem loco

[Brian Mosby]

its getting on to 3 months since i have done anything to this loco as payed work & me putting of working on the valvegear has got in the way but i am today trying to rivit the valvegear togetter

[Brian Mosby]

after rushing once i got home yestoday things went to pot so gave in for the night


But Today i have got it all finished Still need to fill the tanks with Liquid lead but do not have any

001 by Mozzer models, on Flickr


002 by Mozzer models, on Flickr


003 by Mozzer models, on Flickr


004 by Mozzer models, on Flickr

[tedp]

Well done, Brian - the valve gear looks good, and have you straightened the cab roof or am I mistaken? Nice finish too.

[Brian Mosby]

Well done, Brian - the valve gear looks good, and have you straightened the cab roof or am I mistaken? Nice finish too.

No the cab has less of a kink in it as have been slowly bending it back in to shape

Just need the Liquid lead to arrive so i can add weight

[Brian Mosby]

I have done some weathering to the loco & picked out the vac pipes etc

001 by Mozzer models, on Flickr

[Harry Mantheakis]

Hello Brian, your Baldwin looks really good.

I have not yet attempted any loco kits, and would like to ask: does the valve gear (which is so impressive) come pre-assembled?

And how do you fix the valve gear to the GF?

[Brian Mosby]

Hello Brian, your Baldwin looks really good.

I have not yet attempted any loco kits, and would like to ask: does the valve gear (which is so impressive) come pre-assembled?

And how do you fix the valve gear to the GF?

the valve gear for this loco neesd riveting togetter which is just hitting the rivits with a small hammer a bit at a time till there is movment on the riveit but the rivit will not fall out

As to the way it attaches to the GF chassis it uses the same pin that holds the GF rods on to the center wheel  which you remove before soldering the valve link to then just push it back in

[Harry Mantheakis]

the valve gear for this loco neesd riveting togetter which is just hitting the rivits with a small hammer a bit at a time till there is movment on the riveit but the rivit will not fall out

As to the way it attaches to the GF chassis it uses the same pin that holds the GF rods on to the center wheel  which you remove before soldering the valve link to then just push it back in

Woo... the riveting does not sound like something a novice should attempt - but thank you for the explanation.

[Brian Mosby]

the valve gear for this loco neesd riveting togetter which is just hitting the rivits with a small hammer a bit at a time till there is movment on the riveit but the rivit will not fall out

As to the way it attaches to the GF chassis it uses the same pin that holds the GF rods on to the center wheel  which you remove before soldering the valve link to then just push it back in

Woo... the riveting does not sound like something a novice should attempt - but thank you for the explanation.

with the rivets from RT Models its very eazy  sound a lot harder than it is

[Harry Mantheakis]

Thanks Brian - I might give it a try then!

[Brian Mosby]

Heres a Video of the loco
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sgIJSnRdeP4&feature=youtu.be

[Harry Mantheakis]

It is a very attractive loco.