Building RT models outside frame chassis

[David Prime]

Just to ask if anyone has already posted a thread on making an outside frame chassis by RT models or has experience of this they can share - ideally with photographs of the process. Here's hoping someone can help .
Many thanks,

[Elmgate]

I am not aware of any thread here, or on the NGRM Forum, however, in the course of describing my models in the latter place, I did describe my work to fit the RT parts for a model of the Kerr Stuart Baretto class loco. I repeat the relevant parts here, with some of the pictures. My main advice would be to read thoroughly the RT instructions, which I found clear and helpful.

In comments on others' topics, I mentioned that I was working on a model based on the Whipsnade locomotive SUPERIOR. This uses the Golden Arrow castings, and RT models conversion parts for the Farish 08 chassis.



I have finally completed this, including painting and lining in Elmgate and Thatcham Railway blue with white lining. Here is a photo of PEARCELANDS, set up in her home environment:


I should state that I did not have the Golden Arrow etchings, I therefore constructed my own false frames, from brass (offcuts from Worsely Works) and drilled and filed the axle slots and access hole adjacent to the firebox. The axle spacings on the 08 are not quite correct for the prototype, so the GA etchings would not have been suitable. This work was carried out using the drawings by Chris Meachen in Cliff Thomas' book on the Whipsnade Railway. Once the new Bachmann-Farish 08 with outside frames became available, and Robert Thompson (RT Models) introduced his cylinder and motion kits for this chassis, I bought the necessary parts, and completed the work with these, and the body castings, which I purchased.



The cylinders are attached to the chassis, via the lugs on the RT replacement keeper plate. The slidebars and motion etc. then build up as the RT instructions. The false frames are slotted for the axles, and cut away to fit round the cylinders. The frames are soldered to spacers, one in front of the cylinders, and the second visible beneath the pony truck. The frames are then glued to the underside of the footplate, with some plastic card blocks to hold them in place. The front brass screw (10 BA) fastens the mechanism by screwing into the forward plastic block (by allowing it to cut its own thread); the vacant hole is, I believe, used for a front pony truck; the various black crosshead screws are originals, used to attach the keeper plate; the rear brass screw attaches the rear pony truck, via a captive nut, designed into the RT keeper plate. The two small silver crosshead screws either side of the pony truck fastening are the original fixings from the 08, and tap into a plastic block attached to the body. Some cutting away was required to the body, to allow the mechanism to fit the body. Elsewhere, the space built into the kit was excessive!



Please feel free to contact me if you need specific advice.

Regards

Tim Sanderson

[David Prime]

Hi Tim,

That is very helpful of you, and if in my endeavours I have any issues I might indeed take up your offer  of help.
Thanks you , Dave.