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#21
Locomotives / Re: Funkey diesel - Vale of Ff...
Last post by JulienW - April 21, 2026, 09:16I can't think of one off the top of my head.
It might be worth looking at the technical specs of the loco to see what engine it has - a Cummins diesel I think - and seeing if there's something else out there using a similar engine & (hydraulic?) transmission set up for which there is a sound chip / files that can be put onto a blank chip.
It might be worth looking at the technical specs of the loco to see what engine it has - a Cummins diesel I think - and seeing if there's something else out there using a similar engine & (hydraulic?) transmission set up for which there is a sound chip / files that can be put onto a blank chip.
#22
Locomotives / Funkey diesel - Vale of Ffesti...
Last post by Terry Metcalfe - April 20, 2026, 18:27Does anyone know of a sound file or, better, a 6 pin sound chip for this locomotive?
#23
Group Reports / Re: West Midlands Group report...
Last post by JulienW - April 20, 2026, 11:28 #24
Exhibition Publicity / Re: Narrow Gauge South 2026 - ...
Last post by S Hale - April 18, 2026, 08:14I'm hoping to come to this but looking at the website parking bothers me as I have limited walking distance. Could you please tell me if there is likely to be any blue badge parking on site ? Thank you.
#25
Locomotives / Re: Does anyone know which cha...
Last post by Andy Lowman - April 15, 2026, 12:36Thanks, Brian and Julien. Very useful comments, much appreciated.
#26
Locomotives / Re: Does anyone know which cha...
Last post by JulienW - April 15, 2026, 09:49As others have said this is the Farish GWR 94xx pannier tank chassis that the Peco GVT loco kit was designed for. It's also possible to upgrade them with a coreless motor from Tramfabriek (this is the right kit, it just fits a lot of different Farish chassis).
Just out of interest have you tried running the locos with their Farish chassis on the layout? Unless your 'tight' curves are ridiculously so you should be OK as Hugh suggests, and if not then take the flanges off the middle drivers as Brian suggests.
The most effective way to do this is to clamp the chassis, apply power direct to the motor and a file to the rotating flange.
The copper strip over the top forms one motor pole, though you could also use the nut on the top of the chassis where the plastic covered wire runs. The other motor pole is linked to the metal chassis block, so just clip a lead somewhere out of the way.
The main thing is to try to avoid the metal filings falling into the motor and gearing, so it may be best to clamp the chassis the right way up (motor at the top) and bring the file in from underneath.
The most common alternative chassis is to use one of the Kato 4 wheel tram chassis, either the older 11-103 or 4 or the newer 11-108 or 9.
You'd need to sort out some way of fixing the chassis within the body, but as it's a fairly common conversion I'm sure a google search will give lots of inspiration. I also have a feeling that someone may have done a 3d printed adaptor plate.
The only thing to bear in mind is that the bodies that the Kato chassis are designed for are comparatively light compared to the cast white metal kit body so wear on the chassis (particularly the newer ones with their inbuilt compensation) may be increased.
Just out of interest have you tried running the locos with their Farish chassis on the layout? Unless your 'tight' curves are ridiculously so you should be OK as Hugh suggests, and if not then take the flanges off the middle drivers as Brian suggests.
The most effective way to do this is to clamp the chassis, apply power direct to the motor and a file to the rotating flange.
The copper strip over the top forms one motor pole, though you could also use the nut on the top of the chassis where the plastic covered wire runs. The other motor pole is linked to the metal chassis block, so just clip a lead somewhere out of the way.
The main thing is to try to avoid the metal filings falling into the motor and gearing, so it may be best to clamp the chassis the right way up (motor at the top) and bring the file in from underneath.
The most common alternative chassis is to use one of the Kato 4 wheel tram chassis, either the older 11-103 or 4 or the newer 11-108 or 9.
You'd need to sort out some way of fixing the chassis within the body, but as it's a fairly common conversion I'm sure a google search will give lots of inspiration. I also have a feeling that someone may have done a 3d printed adaptor plate.
The only thing to bear in mind is that the bodies that the Kato chassis are designed for are comparatively light compared to the cast white metal kit body so wear on the chassis (particularly the newer ones with their inbuilt compensation) may be increased.
#27
Locomotives / Re: Does anyone know which cha...
Last post by B.Meldon - April 15, 2026, 09:49Quote from: B.Meldon on April 15, 2026, 09:48Whatever alternative chassis you use it will require modifications to the chassis and the body to get them to fit.
In the past I have used the Fleischmann track cleaning chassis in this body kit, however getting the body to sit at the correct height above the rails involves quite a lot of work that can be done when building the kit, but may well prove to be very difficult or even impossible with a completed body kit.
The Kato chassis could be an option, but again it is getting the body to sit low enough that may well be the issue, that will require modifications to the body and chassis.
There are far too many 009 locos that use the Kato chassis that are way to tall and are set too high above the rails.
As I mentioned in one of my previous posts, it is the coupling overhang that will give you problems on tighter curves with this loco.
Even on more generous 12-inch curves the narrow coupling face can cause issues when pushing rolling stock. This can be cured by changing the couplings for wider ones, Bemo couplings for example, or by fitting a section of single strand wire in a horizontal hole just behind the existing coupling face.
#28
Locomotives / Re: Does anyone know which cha...
Last post by B.Meldon - April 15, 2026, 09:48Whatever alternative chassis you use it will require modifications to the chassis and the body to get them to fit.
In the past I have used the Fleischmann track cleaning chassis in this body kit, however getting the body to sit at the correct height above the rails involves quite a lot of work that can be done when building the kit, but may well prove to be very difficult or even impossible with a completed body kit.
The Kato chassis could be an option, but again it is getting the body to sit low enough that may well be the issue.
There are far too many 009 locos that use the Kato chassis that are way to tall and are set too high above the rails.
As I mentioned in one of my previous posts, it is the coupling overhang that will give you problems on tighter curves with this loco.
Even on more generous 12-inch curves the narrow coupling face can cause issues when pushing rolling stock. This can be cured by changing the couplings for wider ones, Bemo couplings for example, or by fitting a section of single strand wire in a horizontal hole just behind the existing coupling face.
In the past I have used the Fleischmann track cleaning chassis in this body kit, however getting the body to sit at the correct height above the rails involves quite a lot of work that can be done when building the kit, but may well prove to be very difficult or even impossible with a completed body kit.
The Kato chassis could be an option, but again it is getting the body to sit low enough that may well be the issue.
There are far too many 009 locos that use the Kato chassis that are way to tall and are set too high above the rails.
As I mentioned in one of my previous posts, it is the coupling overhang that will give you problems on tighter curves with this loco.
Even on more generous 12-inch curves the narrow coupling face can cause issues when pushing rolling stock. This can be cured by changing the couplings for wider ones, Bemo couplings for example, or by fitting a section of single strand wire in a horizontal hole just behind the existing coupling face.
#29
Locomotives / Re: Does anyone know which cha...
Last post by Andy Lowman - April 14, 2026, 18:19Thanks Brian, I hadn't thought about removing the flanges although until I looked closely at the chassis I was considering taking out the middle wheels (obviously not now!). Both loco's run really well and if I can't replace the chassis then removing the flanges is, at least, a solution.
#30
Locomotives / Re: Does anyone know which cha...
Last post by B.Meldon - April 14, 2026, 13:17Quote from: Hugh Norwood on April 14, 2026, 13:06I have one of these under a white metal GVT loco. It's one of my best locos for reliability and pulling power. It goes round 9" curves fine (with flanges on all wheels!)There appears to have been variations in the chassis design over the years, some are fine on 9-inch curves and points and some are not. Some even have issues with the pre-2010 Peco 009 12-inch points. I think it is all about how much side play in the chassis there is for the axles as well as the shape of the wheel flanges. It is not at all obvious when looking at the chassis, it is very much hit and miss. Most, but not all, of the ones I have that date from the late 70's and early 80's with the three pole motor had issues. But others may know more.