Could anyone suggest a way of weighting these, have tried various sizes of fishing shot but cannot get enough on there to give a decent effect. White metal figures seems to over balance them so scratching my head right now. Under the roofs would not work as again they would over balance. There doesn't appear to be a lot of room to do anything as the frames are quite thin as well.
Thanks
The only place is under the floor, but as you say there is not much room.
What problems are you having with them? I ask because I use them on Meanderbahn with 9 inch curves without any problems and they work ok on the Jouef 6 inch curves as well even with 4 or 5 in a train.
Brian Meldon
Back when I were a lad, my parents bought me a Joueff set of loco and coaches, and my father - resourceful as ever - glued some thin strips of lead under the floor (with Bostick or Evo-Stick or whatever we used back then). It worked pretty well, and I still have one of the coaches (somewhere).
MikeC's suggestion is the best
on the underside of the chassis are several reinforcing struts dividing the bottom into sections.What i have done is to stick 4 horizontal strips of sheet lead alongside these.Provided your coaches are free running ,this should be sufficient.
Not for these coaches, but I have used pieces of the self adhesive lead strip sold for simulating leaded light windows and they work well - reaasonable thin and the adhesive works well.
Frank
I'm looking for some suitable lead strips for an engine I am building - please can you tell me where to get self-adhesive lead strips ?
Thanks
Bob
I use sheet lead from Eileens Emporium, cut with tin snips and flattened out. I then use epoxy resin glue to fix it to the vehicle or loco. It is easy to bend so can be fittd into many a tight corner.
Paul
Quote from: PUASHP on January 01, 2013, 22:31
I use sheet lead from Eileens Emporium, cut with tin snips and flattened out. I then use epoxy resin glue to fix it to the vehicle or loco. It is easy to bend so can be fittd into many a tight corner.
Paul
Thanks Paul - I have sourced some roofing lead from B&Q which is thin enough to fit into the loco - held in place with PVA
Robert
I believe there can be a chemical reaction between lead and PVA resulting in "lead rot" (lead acetate??) so it might be worth keeping an eye on it:
http://www.lner.info/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=2737 (http://www.lner.info/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=2737)
Quote from: GraemeD on January 02, 2013, 18:24
I believe there can be a chemical reaction between lead and PVA resulting in "lead rot" (lead acetate??) so it might be worth keeping an eye on it:
http://www.lner.info/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=2737 (http://www.lner.info/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=2737)
Absolutely. you must
never use PVA ( either neat or diluted ) to fix lead sheet or "liquid lead". The resulting chemical reaction can and usually does produce distortion with dire consequences.
Sorry, only just got back to this thread.
It's a while since I bought it, but I got quite a lot of self-adhesive lead strip for simulating leded light windows from hardware shops and builders' merchants. (My wife likes leaded light windows and we moved into a new house with plain ones ...) I've been using what was left ever since. Its like using very heavy Sellotape. It has quite strong glue that sticks to glass, so plastic is OK, and as its designed for the lead there is no chemical reaction problem.
Frank
Frank/Garry,
Thanks for the tips - I have now removed the PVA fixed lead and liquid lead from the loco and replaced with Araldite
Bob
Good to hear that Bob - hopefully not too much damage was done.
Quote from: JulienW on January 03, 2013, 15:13
Good to hear that Bob - hopefully not too much damage was done.
Luckily there was no damage - the liquid Lead was in a couple of tubes - so I just took them out and the couple of bits of sheet lead were easy to get out with some hot (ish) water - just had to be aware of water temp as this is a 3D printed body.
Bob