I took delivery of a Chris Ward Dutch tram engine last week; it is in the paint shop at present.
Meanwhile, a question - The GVT tram engine usually ran cab-forwards, could anyone tell me if other tram engines were operated in a preferred direction? Especially locos on Dutch tramways? Ted?
Best wishes
Most Dutch tramway engines were of the box type:
(https://forum.009society.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.narrowgauge.nl%2Fsite%2Ftram%2Fooie01.jpg&hash=ca9be24b1307586a9753e2bd2c7efcb39a0fdfc6)
These had the driver's position at the side of the boiler, so he could look either way. The water tanks were below the footplate, so he could always step forward to look out the front or rear of the engine.
The other main type is illustrated here:
(https://forum.009society.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.narrowgauge.nl%2Fsite%2Ftram%2F77rtm02.jpg&hash=68305010089d18eec880b2c75a1eee3faa22ab66)
As you can see there is a clear view from the cab down to the front of the engine as it has the tanks below the footplate. These locos ran both ways.
So the answer is no, there wasn't a preferred direction of travel on Dutch steam tram engines.
The Chris Ward loco is not a bad starting point for a Dutch tram loco. There are some detail differences like the posts in the cab side openings, but the style is well captured, with the side aisle for the driver. The other tram loco shell is more like German outline tram engines, but we also had a few of that type over here, with the smokebox door in one of the ends.
Love the top picture.
John W
Many thanks!
(I see I shall have to source a bell....)
Hi,
are these any good ...
http://www.squirestools.com/12-19b.pdf
?
Stuart
If you are modelling british type tram engines, they were usually dual controlled so could be driven from either end. Looking at the G.A drawings of the ex MBRO 84 Wilkinson Patent steam tram we have at The National Tramway Museum, Beyer Peacock marked a front and rear on the drawings. In reality at the terminii, there was often a turning look or triangle so that the engine and trailer could turn round/reverse with trailer still coupled to save dismantling the mechanical brake system.
Regards
Andy
Here it is at last....
I'm very pleased with how it has come out.
Very neat, Hugh. Nice handrails too.
I found a photo of a similar loco in the Valkenburg museum, in green with yellow lining, 75cm gauge:
(https://forum.009society.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.smalspoormuseum.nl%2FMaterieel%2FSilvolde.jpg&hash=33e85ad799adb5e575569825132450ff1744d1e7)
and a 3ft 6ins gauge RTM example which is rather bigger:
(https://forum.009society.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.swaen.org%2Fgeschiedenis%2520zwijndrecht%2Fverkeer%2520%26amp%3B%2520vervoer%2Fimages%2Frtm.ht44.jpg&hash=e76ee97aa0aa98d2ff78ffa5809bcdb59fd106cf)
Oh dear! I've just noticed the real ones are glazed!
:(
Yes they were. I don't think glazing them from behind should be very difficult.
One other thing that might add to the impression of a Dutch tram engine is larger oil headlamps. Perhaps if you fit slices of brass or aluminium pipe around the existing ones on the model that might do the trick. Some tramways had polished brass lamps, others had them painted black. The lamps on the green loco in the museum are black. Inside the lamps is a white reflector (I think enamel), not a polished metal one. I think the lamps on the RTM loco have polished metal reflectors though.
Some Dutch tram engines were named, others only numbered. They used brass plates in the centre of the side sheets. If you want details I can provide some.
But I'm picking nits - I think the Chris Ward loco is an excellent starting point for a freelance interpretation of a Backer & Rueb (Breda factory) tram loco. Your finish is very neat.
Looks good, I'm glad you are a happy 3D printer user too. My Fairlie has come out very nicely.
John W
Hi Hugh,
(Sorry - a bit off-topic.)
The finish on your tram looks good. What did you do by way of surface preparation? I bought one of Chris's models and he suggests "burnishing between paint coats". Now, I've tried it on a part of the loco butI've resisted the temptation to do more because a colleague wanted to see an example of the 3D printing and I also want to take a photo of it in near original state this weekend. It does make a big difference so I'm wondering if I should prime again and burnish that coat too.
To be honest it didn't need much preparation.
I did make a burnishing tool by putting a pin with a round (almost spherical) metal head into a pine vise and run it over the surface with only a slight pressure. I did this only once as I did not think it really needed it again; except for the dome. After I painted it gold, it showed up some roughness, so I burnished it again and put on another coat of gold.
Today I have applied some transfers, so now it's number 11 - "TIFFANY"
I'd echo what Hugh says about the surface. I used acrylic paint but only did a fairly brief rub over before the first coat. The dome certainly has the most noticeable printing 'artifacts' but from anything like a normal viewing distance it is fine.
John W
I'm doing the same loco. It's actually far from a Backer & Rueb loco. The only thing in common are the three windows in the front, the opening around the wheels in his recent version, the rest is actually very British. Also the amount and length of the handle bars is not as the B&R prototypes. Most actually don't have handle bars. But Chris told me he is working on a more accurate model. His latest 0e model is actually more like it. The H0e/009 model can not be made shorter, which causes the bottom frame to stick out (the front should be flat), as that is the only way the Kato motor can fit.
Burnish them I did with a ice cream stick, which is sandpapered at the end. After that I put it in soapy water to degrease it. Don't do that, as the primer, strangely enough, comes off.
There is an inlay for the windows on the both fronts, but I just put one plate of transparent sheet to cover the windows.
I have to disagree with Ted about the head lights. On the light green nr 13 loco they might be big, but there are enough examples where the head lights were in this size, so no need to worry. I've put two 1206 LED's on the back of each front, which a transparent circle glued with Kristal Klear for the glass pane. On a side note: loco 13 is an exceptional machine, as most B&R loco's where on meter gauge, this one is 750 mm.