I can't find a thread on this subject that really answers my queries (but stand to be corrected and re-directed as appropriate !)
I have decided that I want to go down the DCC route with my layout - lots of reasons, and I don't want to go through them in detail as I have been considering this matter for a number for years and have finally made up my mind. If it means I have to scale back on my 30 or so locos then fair enough I think.
My query/issue is not about whether to convert locos/layout but how to do so.
The very small locos will probably not be convertable but I have a number of locos that can be converted I think.
I was wondering if anyone had any practical experience / sources of knowledge specifically in relation to 009 locos ?
I know this is a big subject (not only for 009 Society but the hobby in general) - therefore apologies in advance !
Thanks
Bob
I've chipped a few, an use DCC for all my 009 stock.
Which chassis are you referring to, Bob? Chipping one could be very different from another.
Quote from: invercloy on March 13, 2012, 12:44
I've chipped a few, an use DCC for all my 009 stock.
Which chassis are you referring to, Bob? Chipping one could be very different from another.
Tom
It currently is a very mixed bag.
Some Kato (from 009 sales), Hallig (used by Paul Windle), some Ibertren, Farish and Bachmann 0-6-0's, newish Roco and Lilliputs, Arnold, and so on.
Being realistic it looks like the old stuff won't be easy to do and the newer stuff might be ok.
Bob
Not so sure about that. I've found the old stuff just as easy.
I dont have time at the moment, but I'll add a few photos of what I've done to chip my locos.
Old farish ones are more difficult in that they require something called a 'digit hat' but once you've got one of those they're as easy as anything else.
Some of your 'newer' stuff may have somewhere you can plug a chip in to make life easier, but as far as I understand it the essence of 'chipping' a loco is to insert the chip (electrcally speaking) so that it is between the loco's pick ups and the motor. In some cases it is not hard to identify what the current does to get from the wheels to the motor (the Ibertren uses extentions of the phosphor bronze pick up strips that make contact with contacts on the underside of the motor) and where one might wire in the chip (on the Ibertren's case cut off or isolate the pick up extentions so they can't reach the motor, solder the red and black wires from the chip to the pick up strips and attach the grey and orange wires to the motor), but in other cases - like the older Farish chassis - the job is a bit more involved as parts of the chassis block are used to form the electrical circuit (at least I think that's the issue with the Farish mechs) so some form of exrta (electrical)isolation is needed.
The real skill is working out where to put the chip, especially on smaller locos, but there are some very small chips out there (have a look at the Z2 chip from TCS) that may make life easier, and the underside of the cab roof could proove quite a useful unobtrusive mounting point.
Tom
I have 12 HOn30 locos and railcars DCC and havent found any real problems. So long as you make absolutely sure the motor is isolated you will not have problems. With most modern stuff you only have to connect the motor conections to the orange/grey wires as the motor itself is isolated
There are plenty of small decoders. I must admit I often chicken out of the lights to get the job done
The problem comes in my experiencewith older Kato and similar mechanisms with split frames where there is a need to isolate the motor itself I am scratching my head re a Kato C11 steam loco just now
The Bachmann Plymouth 0-6-0 has to have the chassis filed as the motor touches each chassis side and connecting red/black to the chassis needs screws to solder onto in my experience
I dont like Roco and similar which seem to me to be deliberately engineered to prevent disassembly but it can be done
Maybe we could set up a thread or something for people to describe how they did it for different locos and railcars
I havent done sound yet in 009 but plenty in HO
Peter
I often do lights and sound. As I used fixed consists, I tend to install sound in the following vehicle.
http://www.009.cd2.com/members/how_to/chuffed.htm (http://www.009.cd2.com/members/how_to/chuffed.htm)
Now that's a very sensible solution if it can be done.
Many thanks for all viewpoints thus far.
As I have only just learned to solder I fear my skill level on chipping locos will just not be up to the job and therefore I wonder if anyone could advise/recommend a suitably skilled expert who could undertake this work for me - preferably someone with 009 loco experience ?
Thanks
Bob
Quote from: petersmith1942 on March 14, 2012, 17:19
Tom
I have 12 HOn30 locos and railcars DCC and havent found any real problems. ...
Thanks Peter, but I think you mean Bob ;)
I have tried soundtraxx sound chips for a steam loco and I've been very disappointed with the results. At the moment I don't think the right samples are available without using something like the ESU LokSound Micro and adding narrow gauge sounds from the library. Diesel noises seem ok out of the box though.
I think several of the DCC focussed shops offer a chipping service. Look at places like Digitrains, DCC Supplies, or Bromsgrove Models.
Tom
sorry, realised my error after pressing send!
Agree re Soundtraxx, use them in my US HO locos and they are fine but not appropriate for ng
The Bachmann HOn3 locos use soundtraxx but they are big locos compared with most of what we do
Most people do tend to have the sound too loud (and definitely those next to me at exhibitions) and I imagine finding the right cvs and by trial and error the Soundtraxx small steam loco could be made ok for ng. Again most Soundtraxx decoders as supplied are not very well set up
Reverting to Bob If I may, finding someone to put in decoders in the sort of locos we use probably wont be easy and I would be reluctant to do it for others because it tests my patience sometimes to do my own
More and more N scale locos are coming DCC ready or DCC fitted and I would try this route if possible so long as DCC ready means just plugging the decoder in. A small existing fleet could then be tackled one by one. Frankly the soldering is not the problem, its the disassembly, motor isolation and the reassembly that I find most difficult. You must be sure before you start that there is room for your choice of decoder but that is becoming less of a problem as decoders get smaller
Peter
Andy Forte of DCC supplies will fit chips.