This is an elementary subject I know but after using matt enamel paints on rolling stock, what is the best way of cleaning brushes in between using different paints and at the end of a painting session (without upsetting other members of the household?
I'm not sure my way is the best. I have a small medicine bottle full of white spirit. This I use to wash the brushes in, by stirring the liquid with the brush, then I dry it with a piece of kitchen tissue and wash it again until all traces of paint have gone from the brush. To avoid a smell inside the house I often do so in the backyard. Take care not to damage the brush in the process (don't touch the bottom of the bottle with it).
Thank you, Ted. My reason for asking such an elementary question is that the guy in the shop suggested using thinners which I have. However I'm concerned that there may be residue from the thinners on the brush which will then get into the paint.
When using enamels (oil based paint as opposed to vitreous!) once I have cleaned the brush in white spirit or simular (proper turpentine smells better than white spirit or its substitutes in my opinion) in much the same method that Ted describes I then clean the brush again in a mix of water and washing up liquid (which is incidentally the same mix I use for cleaning acrylic paint off the brushes) using the same technique (stir the brush around, etc.).
The trouble with cleaning brushes in white spirit, turps, enamel thinners, etc, is that it removes the natural oils from the hairs, and will in time destroy the brush. When you have spent good money on decent sable brushes this is the last thing you want. A good brush, well looked after, should last many years.
I tip I picked up from military modelling is to gently rub a small amount of petroleum jelly (Vaseline) into the hairs once you have finished cleaning them with white spirit/thinners and then warm soapy water. You can also reform the tips of pointed brushes at the same time. The petroleum jelly should be washed out with a little white spirit or enamel thinners before the next use.
Proper (natural) turpentine is available from good artist supply shops as it's still used by some for thinning oil paints. Being a natural product (from pine trees if I remember correctly) it's not as harsh on the brushes.
Darren.
Quote from: Darren Hedges on September 05, 2011, 17:20
The trouble with cleaning brushes in white spirit, turps, enamel thinners, etc, is that it removes the natural oils from the hairs, and will in time destroy the brush. When you have spent good money on decent sable brushes this is the last thing you want. A good brush, well looked after, should last many years.............
Darren.
I use Humbrol enamel thinners to clean the brushes after using enamel paint followed by cleaning and drying with a rag. I use tap water after using acrylics. I have been using the same good quality brush for about 10 years now. So if the thinners is damaging it I can live with this rate of deterioration!
Brian Meldon
Many thanks for all the suggestions. Given my initial concern, I believe I'll try the white spirit + washing up liquid method and see how I get on. I also think I'll give the petroleum jelly idea a try as well. I'm sure it's not absolutely necessary; so we'll call it getting in touch with my feminine side.
I clean brushes in white spirit first, using two jars, a 'dirty' jar for starters and a 'clean' jar secondly, blotting on kitchen towel in between. Once I'm happy that all trace of paint has been removed it's off to the sink to wash thoroughly in warm soapy water. That usually released a bit more paint! After a thorough rinsing, the brush is dried by drawing through a towel and finally I use a little saliva to moisten and shape the brush to retain its form. I then put the brush into its protective tube to dry. Cleaning between colours is effected with white spirit. A brush, even a 000, will last me years.