I have just taken delivery of a Townsend Hook - No. 4 a Fletcher Jennings creation from NG Trains.
The space under the model beneath boiler/cab is pretty small! The space measures 30mm/0.8mm/13mm (length/width/depth). The depth is not absolute - it is the max depth as it meets the inner- and underside of the top of the boiler, which is obviously curved, so minimum depth would be less around the edges of the engine space.
Does anyone have an idea about a suitable (009 gauge) donor engine?
Thanks.
M.
T_Hook1.jpg
And another image...T_Hook2.jpg
This 3D print is 7mm scale artwork down sized to 4mm scale. That is why the opening for the chassis is too small for 009.
I used a Fleischmann 0-4-0 chassis. However, this needed a lot of work making enough room in the body that makes it structurally unsound. Because of this I reinforced the underside of the footplate as well as the inside surface of the tanks with tin sheet. Cutting the printed material has to be done with a small grinding wheel, knives and files will not do the job! Make sure you do this in a well ventilated area and that you avoid breathing in the dust. The use of lead inside every possible space in the body ahead of the rear wheels is also a must. It was a lot of work, but it is such a good 3D print it was well worth it.
Brian - thanks for your post - it sounds like a job too far for a novice!
I may be asking too much, but could you detail where/how much you had to cut/reinforce the model using the image above showing the underside of the model? How much extra weight (gms/oz) did you need to add?
Is there a specific Fleischmann 0-4-0 chassis that you used?
Do you have a picture of your finished model the you could share?
Any additional help/advice you could offer would be great - it would be appreciated.
Cheers,
M.
I have one of these bodies with a plan to scratch build a chassis using 2mm Association components (I've got the wheels & gears, not sure about the motor yet) based on some posts on NGRM online. As you say this might be not the 1st choice for a novice, but being a relatively simple chassis - inside frames and just connecting and coupling rods without valve gear- might be a good place to start if you have a way of drilling holes accurately (like a drill stand).
I suspect the Fleischmann chassis Brian used will be one of the 7000 type - AKAIK Fleischmann have only ever done the one type of 0-4-0 chassis. That being said I suspect you might also be able to use the similar Ibertren Cuckoo chassis, and if you are prepared to wait for it to be built you could also look at the (new) chassis by N-drive Productions (details via Google) as an option.
Julien - thank you; I used to have one of those small Fleischmann 0-4-0s when I was much younger, when I lived in Germany, given away may years ago to a youngster I knew that want a train set.
It seems that Ibertren Cuckoo chassis are rarer than an uncooked steak. I've had a quick look at the N-drive site: to which "new" chassis do you refer?
Again, thanks for your help.
There is a Fleischmann 0-4-0 7000 series for sale here in Switzerland for 10 Swiss Franc. I could get it for you but by the time you read this the auction may be over,
Robin.
I'm online now - for SF 10 - go for it if you can! Let me know how to square up. I take it that it works?
Thanks!
I have already placed a bid.Keep your fingers crossed 30 minutes to go. We will sort payment out later.
Robin.
Thanks, Robin!
The auction just concluded and I won it. Switzerland has its own version of eBay called Ricardo if any one is interested to have a look around. Variety is far less then Germany but unusual models show up from time to time.
You can contact me by private message, I will send it to you, when I get it.
Robin
Sent you a PM - many thanks again.
M
Here is a before and after photo showing how much needs to be removed to fit the Fleischmann 0-4-0 chassis as well as the additional tin strips added to the footplate, rear buffer beam area and inside the outer surface of the tanks, without this the body would loose structural integrity. These need to be added before all the material is removed to avoid the body cracking during the process.
I also modified the Fleischmann chassis to help with the installation:
Here is my completed loco. I used tin sheet for the cab roof with the rear upright supports soldered on to the roof before fitting to the body, again this was done to help with the structural strength at the rear of the body.It was a lot of work, but I think that it was worth it. As it happens I do have another one of these bodies, but without the extra parts ie the smokebox and firebox that were missing from the first one I purchased, but were kindly replaced by EDM with a complete kit! I may make this body up at some point using my own parts.
That looks smart Brian.
Robin.
Brian - that looks smashing - thank you for sharing. I've snagged a 0-4-0 Fleischmann engine donor - and many thanks to Robin W for sourcing that at such short notice, so let's see where this leads.
Other advice I have had suggests using a TT ("Normandy") body and making an HOm/12mm version, which is also closer to the original Betchworth gauge for this particular part of the quarry (3'2½"; they ran standard gauge and three narrow gauge lines within the quarry), so decision time draws closer.
Thank you to all that have offered advice and commentary on this - greatly appreciated.
M.