Is there some advice on simulating a fast flowing stream and pond on a OO9 layout?
I've seen various options on the internet:
- Proprietary products, usually one for the pond and another for a sloping stream.
- Using PVA and varnish
- Using silicone sealant
Thanks in advance
There are YouTube videos showing people modelling rapid or turbulent water - not necessarily model railway related, but dioramas. I've watched quite a few and I think it is a matter of taking what you can from a range of them. Some are sponsored by manufacturers and so are clearly promoting particular products.
There are various proprietary products for modelling water and it appears the choice is partly down to the volume and time available. Some set rapidly but can be a 'one shot only' product that if a mistake is made could require extensive rebuilding (e.g. resins), whereas others (e.g. varnishes) are built up in layers, slowly, but allowing some degree of correction as work proceeds.
I think a general plan is:
1. seal the riverbed etc. with something that won't affect the underlying material (paint, foam baseboard etc. as some materials will eat the paint of foam).
2. pour on the bulk of the water material (or build up in layers). This is likely to flow to a relatively flat surface.
3. add the surface texture using proprietary water sculpting material or Modge Podge or artists clear acrylic medium sculpting paste.
Falling water can sometimes be modelled using teased out cotton wool and acrylic varnish or 'liquid water' material (I've used it on culverts and sluices, but not full waterfalls).
Edit: 'of Modge Podge' edited to 'or Modge Podge'.
Carol Flavin has done a couple of videos on this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HWGzVJBFEfU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Y8c1Az0-bc
More waterfall than rapid water, but might be relevant.
Ian
I would concur with Graeme about the importance of sealing the base. After a layer of plaster, I have used a couple of coats of Woodland Scenics river paint but there may be cheaper options available.
Another key point is to be careful if using PVA t9 fix reeds etc as it can or react with some of the ready pour products.
I've been experimenting modelling sea... a large diameter straw cut lengthways then bent into an 'S' shape, glued down along one edge using the curved part as the wave, then tissue (toilet or nose-blow) torn, not cut, on top, stuck down with PVA (I used PVA varnish) in three layers, then painted and a further coat of varnish to finish. Remember that waves are not uniform and tend to 'roll' in and that there's a foam running back into the sea from the beach. I hope this is of some use, though it's not rapid flowing water, I'm sure that a similar technique could be used.
The first and most important thing to do is to make sure the 'water' level is lower than the rest of the layout. It just looks wrong if it is on top of a flat baseboard!
To make the water you need to seak out some clear setting PVA. This is sold as art supplies, the last bottle I purchased came from The Range. You can try normal PVA, but there is a chance it will sett misty not clear. Even with this it is best to do an experiment first to make sure it will set clear in the depth you will use.