Hi there, I'll be talking about my currently unnamed layout as I go through the construction. I already have the baseboard built and underlay down, I am now working on the track. I have a question, what is the best reccomended way to lay the track down? Pins or glue, and if so, what is the best item to use for either method.
My preference is for glue and temporary pinning. Some people advocate tiny screws (which I must try).
I think it may well depend on the baseboard construction, underlay type and rail curvature. If the baseboard is really hard it will be difficult to insert pins and sometimes people pre-drill holes. If using Flexitrack and have tight curves, pre-bending the track is a good idea. (See my article on inexpensive home-made rail benders in an 009 News a while back (insert smug git emoji here!))
For gluing my current favourite is plastic friendly contact adhesive such as UHU Por. The ordinary (more smelly) stuff is OK on Flexitrack but eats into Setrack a bit.
I tried a No More Nails type (own brand) glue. Never again. This stuff set like rock and it was difficult to get a thin even layer that didn't squidge up between the sleepers. (I should have done a trial section. Some varieties are flexible, but I'd used up that tube on a DIY job.)
If the baseboard will take them, drawing pins, especially map pin type can be useful for holding track in place temporarily if put at the ends of sleepers or just outside the rail along side the webbing.
As Graeme suggests the answer is pins and glue - essentially use the pins to hold the track in place whilst the glue sets.
The problem with using pins permanently is that they are a great way to transmit any vibrations from the loco to the baseboard that very effectively amplifies any noise. Using an underlay will help acoustically decouple the track from the sounding (base) board - in this respect a foam is better than cork - but using a 'hard' adhesive, especially something like PVA in the ballast mix, only couples things back up again especially if it soaks into the foam!
Personally I've used PVA (neat) to stick the foam underlay down, then double sided tape and pins to hold the track in place before applying the ballast dry then using a mix of Matt media and water (1:1 ratio, with a couple of drops of colourless washing up liquid to break to surface tension) applied with a pipette drop by drop - the aim being not to drop the drips from a great height so as not to disturb the ballast. I've also seen powdered adhesives suggested (cascamite for example) suggested that are mixed with the dry ballast and water + a wetting agent (drop of washing up liquid again or isopropyl alcohol) gently sprayed on using a plant sprayer.
One the adhesive has set then the pins can be removed.
If you use pins or screws, it helps to drill clearance holes in the sleepers to prevent the pin or screw distoring the plastic which may lead to poor running.
I do not use any underlay. By the time you have ballasted the track there is hardly any differance in the noise levels and most modern locos are near silent anyway. The disadvantage with any soft underlay is that if you pin the track down it will dip where the pinds are. I use a 1/4 (6mm) plywood trackbed, this gives a nice solid base to fix everrything down onto. As mentioned by others pre drill the holes in the plastic sleepers for the pins, but also pre-bend the rails in any flexi-track curves and avoid any kinks at rail joints.To get good running in 009 the track has to be spot on, far more so than with 00.
I tend to agree - especially with micro layouts and other situations where there are tight curves where I've glued down Flexitrack to an MDF (or ply) sub-base in the manner of Kato Unitrack. Getting the track level and even is my goal.
I've yet to try Iain Rice's take on this where he advocates this construction 'floating' on a baseboard or frame. I've not found a suitable material to provide good sound insulation. Perhaps something like acoustic foam or rubberised horsehair, but it is expensive. There is fibrous (coir?) laminate flooring underlay that is supposedly good. There is also the matting used in car panel voids.
Cheers for the pointers all. I've been taking a break over Christmas but I'll find some glue during this week as that seems to be the popular suggestion. I already have cork on my board so that'll have to stay
Hi everyone, this year, I've built a layout in my model railway shed and I have a dream of taking it to exhibitions in the near future.
The layout is called Dyffryn Hardd (Welsh for Beautiful Valley), it measures 5 feet long by 2 feet wide and it's been made to operate from either the back or the front using a simple Hornby controller. It forms the terminus of a fictional narrow gauge railway, the Porthmadog and Dyffryn Hardd Railway, between 1895 and 1910, and also includes a tramway branching away to a quarry.
Features on the layout include a lake for people to swim in, a cameo of Sherlock Holmes and Dr Watson and an early motorcar. The project to build Dyffryn Hardd only began in January this year and finished by August, although there is still more detailing to do and one of my points needs replacing.
Despite the minor errors, I think Dyffryn Hardd is really good for my first OO9 project.
For an exhibition you need to make the layout 100% reliable. It is also best to have the trains moving slowly.
This is no easy task for 009, and far more difficult than with a 00 layout.
I would recommend:
Only use electrofrog points.
Fit frog polarity switches to every point.
Have at least two spare locos for every one loco in use. (All working 100% with clean wheels etc.)
Ensure that all couplings are the same height and that all work on every part of the layout in every combination of locos and vehicles.
Lay the track in such a way and have rolling stock and locos that can all be propelled i.e. pushed backwards on every part of the layout.
Ensure that the layout can easily be operated by a stand-in operator when you need to go to lunch etc.
Missing any one of these may well give you issues at exhibitions.
Others may well have a different idea on what is recommended.
For general public exhibitions try and design the layout so there is always something moving.
This is not as important at a specialist narrow gauge exhibition.
A good way to gain exhibition experience is to help someone else. It may also give you a chance to try some of your locomotives and rolling stock out in an exhibition environment.
There are varying reports on the performance of the Hornby controllers so it could also be helpful to get the feel of other controllers by way of comparison. The Gaugemaster Handheld or Combi are quite popular for use on small layouts.
Any experience gained on a proven layout may help you fine tune your layout and operations.
Edit: spelling of "Combi"
Quote from: Graeme Dunbar on November 29, 2024, 09:18A good way to gain exhibition experience is to help someone else. It may also give you a chance to try some of your locomotives and rolling stock out in an exhibition environment.
There are varying reports on the performance of the Hornby controllers so it could also be helpful to get the feel of other controllers by way of comparison. The Gaugemaster Handheld or Combie are quite popular for use on small layouts.
Any experience gained on a proven layout may help you fine tune your layout and operations.
I 100% agree. It is a very good idea to get exhibition experiance before you take your own layout. You may find that you hate it as some have found!
Wise words from Graeme!