I wish to make my own track and points to replace some old handmade 009 track and points, I am aware of suppliers for "00" but am not aware of a supplier for 009. Any information will be much appreciated.
Peco sell the rail that they make in various profiles depending on what you want.
Copper clad PCB sleepers are available in several widths and from several suppliers, but you will need to cut them to length.
Here is one example:
https://www.railroomelectronics.co.uk/Copper-Clad-Pcb-Board/Copper-Clad-Strips/Page1.aspx
You will also probably need a roller gauge that has the flange gaps you need. Please note that some of these are set to flange gaps that are too small for some of the wheel flanges used in 009 and N gauge. I got my ones about 40 years ago now, from memory they were turned up in a lathe not purchased, they are set to Peco flange gaps.
Others may disagree but I would stick to the flange gaps frog angles and geometry used by Peco in their 009 points, simply because this will work with a wide range of wheel profiles. If you use finer clearances smaller rail and smaller frog angles you may well have issues with some vehicles. Peco point geometry is a compromise, but it does work with just about everything.
To add to Brian's suggestions...
C&L Finescale (https://www.clfinescale.co.uk/) also sell rail. I've purchased 'flatbottom' rail from them in both code 55 (steel) and code 40 (nickel silver).
I bought my copper clad sleepers from 3mm Scale Model Railways (https://www.3smr.co.uk/track.html), who do pre cut sleepers and longer lengths for 'point timbering'. Whilst the standard sleepers may be a bit big for 2' gauge they seem to match well with the longer sleepers used for 2'6" gauge track.
Finally, a chap called Keith Angus produced a set of templates based on Peco geometry. The copyright Keith put on them was free (non commercial) use as long as they were credited. I'm not sure if Keith is a member of the forum but if you'd like a set of pdf files to print off please e-mail me at heritage@009society.com
Useful tips there. I have a couple to add:
I bought my roller gauges from DCC Concepts. They are N gauge ones, which are to current NEM standards and may be a bit tight for wheels on old rolling stock.
Sleepers for 3mm scale are about the right size for 009. I got mine from 3smr.co.uk but big packs of sleepers seem to be out of stock at the moment. They also sell code 80 rail.
(I learned to make my own track when I was working in 2mm finescale. Items I used to use that I really miss are crossing nose gauges, which are just a pair of circular aluminium buttons with the outside diameter being the track gauge. Using a pair of these, you can position the crossing vee very accurately relative to the stock rails. I also miss having aluminium slip gauges just the right thickness for the crossing flangeway.)
Ian
I bought Iain Rice's book on making PBC track and found it very useful. I guess it is out of print but second hand copies are available, e.g.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pragmatic-Guide-Building-Wiring-Laying/dp/1900349094 (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pragmatic-Guide-Building-Wiring-Laying/dp/1900349094)
I've only made a few short lengths of track and not attempted pointwork (yet). I had fun making up a couple of gauges as I struggled to find them (other than a roller gauge). I agree about using Peco track as a de facto standard.
A Garryflex block is a great thing for cleaning the copper clad board.
The 2mm Scale Association's book "Track: How it works and how to model it" is also an excellent resource. There's a lot that's not of relevance to and our curves tend to be ridiculously sharp compared with 2FS, but the guidance on building copperclad points is superb.
The book itself is theoretically only available to 2mm Association members, but it's available from some online retailers and, if you visit the 2mm Association stand at an exhibition, they will happily sell you a copy.
2mm Association gauges are no use to as as they are for 9.42mm gauge with much finer flangeways than we use. Also block gauges and things like the crossing nose gauge I mentioned above are problematic with FB rail, as you need a rebate to clear the foot of the rail.
I use a glassfibre brush for cleaning copperclad sleepers and rail. However, you almost inevitably get fragments of glassfible bristle stuck in your fingers!
Another vote here for the 2mm Association's book on track. I found it most helpful.
Thank you all for your useful comments, will certainly look at 2mm association
I said in an earlier post that the 2mm Association book was available to members only. Turns out I was wrong on that...
http://www.2mm.org.uk/products/nms/index.html
Ian