Having broken up my original alyout - three years under a old sheet and it was going nowhere fast - I have decided on something (slightly) simpler. I've done the Peco point motors thing and whilst efficient it's too much faff this time. Contemplated WiT but this is just for me to play trains with and WiT is again going to be too much faff. I'm going to be quite happy with HoG but I'm not inclined to just flick the points over with a finger. What I'd really like is a working point lever next to (or at least near) the points themselves. Not those damn great things in a frame that are used with WiT but something small, maybe a bit over scale, that I can fit and use and won't look too silly. Someone must make them, but who?
Good to see you active again Brian!!
By point levers, do you mean that you want miniature point levers that look like point levers? I ask because about the most simple method of point control without using your greasy fingers on the actual point blades is to use either wire in tube or something more rigid, such as a length of thin gauge rod and connect it to a slide switch that can be located anywhere you want, many people do site the switch on the nearest edge of the baseboard, or even closer to the point so the length of the actuating wire or rod is only short. It also comes with the advantage that if you want to, you can wire up the point frog to the slide switch to provide polarity switching.
Mick
Caboose Industries make a variety of ground throws and some the option to change the polarity.
https://www.cabooseind.com/
Nscaleamericantrains have the n gauge version
https://www.nscaleamericantrains.co.uk/en/accessories/4591-operating-ground-throw.html
Although you may require HO versions for 009 track.
If frog switching is not required, the simplest solution I can think of is to extend the throw bar and put an L bend in it as a point lever, say with a length of stiff wire, i.e. a short rigid wire-in-tube without the tube.
The extra unsupported lever arm and moment will not make it the most robust solution and it will depend how successfully the wire can be secured to the throw bar. Older Peco track I've got has reacted to solvent glue so a good solid glued joint should be possible, but newer stuff may use an engineering plastic that is less reactive.
Hello Brian,
Another vote for Caboose Industries' point switches from me. They do the job, look OK and are useable.
Julian
Thank you, gentlemen. The Caboose point switches are exactly what I was hoping for. Just have to decide whether the frog polarity switch are vital or a luxury.
Brian,
I don't use them so, with Peco points, I just rely on blade contact and keeping the contact area very clean. A bit of graphite also helps. Works for me!
Julian
I've always fitted frog polarity switching to points, but I suspect this may be easier for me as I use Wire in Tube with a slide switch to actuate the wire that also does the elastic trickery for the frog. But then I'd rather rely on the sliding (& self cleaning) contacts in the switch than the 'pressing' contact of point blade & stock rail.
Another way to look at it is that fitting frog polarity switching is not going to make running worse...
How about something like this set up, but somewhat more disguised as a scenic item.
This is a very simple way to change the point and also switch the polarity in the frog at the same time.
You will find even when using fingers to change the points the blade to fixed rail electrical switching is unreliable.
Have ordered eight from Caboose so now I'll have to create a layout to accommodate them!
Quote from: BrianE on November 12, 2021, 22:09
Have ordered eight from Caboose so now I'll have to create a layout to accommodate them!
We look forward to seeing your progress Brian.